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Function over F0RM
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I know I am splitting hairs, however, the K5/6 seems very hard to come by that is not thrashed and they are so sought after. Would there be anything wrong with a K7/8? The K7/8 seems to be close enough, hell, I’d even take a nice K1.
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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The funny part is mine is in amazing condition and I have had it posted for sale for a while, yet I have not gotten any serious bites. Only people that want to pay $4,500 for it.
That being said, I don't see why not.
 

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Function over F0RM
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Discussion Starter #3
The funny part is mine is in amazing condition and I have had it posted for sale for a while, yet I have not gotten any serious bites. Only people that want to pay $4,500 for it.
That being said, I don't see why not.
It is so bad in Florida. 600s are lowered and stretched. Half the posts are fake too.
 

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I'd say you can't go wrong with either. I own a k5 however, would probably rather a K7 and here's why.
The k5 is very aggressive (not necessarily bad) for a number of reasons, where each on their own would make an aggressive bike, let alone a combination of them being; the k5 has a very broad torque curve, power starts quite low, meaning even if you go WOT at 6k, it will happily lift the front wheel (1st). Also the wheel base feels shorter, even if the numbers don't seem to be, it has no issue stepping out, and quite often is considered high side happy, which I do not disagree with.

The k7 on the other hand, make more of its power up top, and makes more of it, just look at the cam profile. It also comes with what feels like a longer chassis where its happier to step the rear out and leave it there rather than high side. Another plus for the k7 is the computer can be made to have alot more functions than the k5 factory ecm.

weight wise, everyone claims the k5 to be lighter, but truth be told, once you remove the cat and dual exhaust, there isn't much in it if at all.

there a numerous difference, other than whats been mentioned but, how detailed do you want to go? and really anyone of them is way more bike than 'anyone' needs on the street. That being said if its a track bike, it depends on what you want from the bike.
 

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That’s Mister Chalet To You ....
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The funny part is mine is in amazing condition and I have had it posted for sale for a while, yet I have not gotten any serious bites. Only people that want to pay $4,500 for it.
That being said, I don't see why not.
Really? If I convert CAD to USD, 4500-5200 would be a good asking price for my mint, all-original K6 with 2600kms on the clock.

I'd say you can't go wrong with either. I own a k5 however, would probably rather a K7 and here's why.
The k5 is very aggressive (not necessarily bad) for a number of reasons, where each on their own would make an aggressive bike, let alone a combination of them being; the k5 has a very broad torque curve, power starts quite low, meaning even if you go WOT at 6k, it will happily lift the front wheel (1st). Also the wheel base feels shorter, even if the numbers don't seem to be, it has no issue stepping out, and quite often is considered high side happy, which I do not disagree with.

The k7 on the other hand, make more of its power up top, and makes more of it, just look at the cam profile. It also comes with what feels like a longer chassis where its happier to step the rear out and leave it there rather than high side. Another plus for the k7 is the computer can be made to have alot more functions than the k5 factory ecm.

weight wise, everyone claims the k5 to be lighter, but truth be told, once you remove the cat and dual exhaust, there isn't much in it if at all.

there a numerous difference, other than whats been mentioned but, how detailed do you want to go? and really anyone of them is way more bike than 'anyone' needs on the street. That being said if its a track bike, it depends on what you want from the bike.
Wow... sounds like you'd be happier with a nice goldwing trike :lol
 

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Super Moderator
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I know I am splitting hairs, however, the K5/6 seems very hard to come by that is not thrashed and they are so sought after. Would there be anything wrong with a K7/8? The K7/8 seems to be close enough, hell, I’d even take a nice K1.
The k5/k6 was damn near impossible to find even roughly 4 years ago when I bought mine. Not impossible but virtually impossible to find in a condition that would meet our standards and so much so that I had to look 1200 miles out of state to get mine at of time. I can't imagine trying to find a mint example now. I still cruise the classifieds for fun and the ones I see posted for sale are just as clapped out and brutally molested as they were when I was on hunt.

I really don't see how finding a k7 would be any easier at this point either as these bikes are naturally getting older. A mint k1 would be nice too but I think most guys who have these bikes in great shape aren't going to be interested in letting them go.

Not sure why Nick is selling his. :monkeyface
 

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The k5 is very aggressive (not necessarily bad) for a number of reasons, where each on their own would make an aggressive bike, let alone a combination of them being; the k5 has a very broad torque curve, power starts quite low, meaning even if you go WOT at 6k, it will happily lift the front wheel (1st). Also the wheel base feels shorter, even if the numbers don't seem to be, it has no issue stepping out, and quite often is considered high side happy

Thanks for reminding me why I love this bike! :banana:banana:banana
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Really? If I convert CAD to USD, 4500-5200 would be a good asking price for my mint, all-original K6 with 2600kms on the clock.



Wow... sounds like you'd be happier with a nice goldwing trike :lol
Not here. $4,500 is usually a decent shape one with 20k miles. $3,500 are junk ones, and $5,500 are mint.
 

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That’s Mister Chalet To You ....
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@GSXRISSA is right though, especially with stock gearing. If you're under 100 mph and you want to give 'er with any semblance of authority, you have to drop all the way down to 1st.

Of course, I'm a pussy. With a proper rider who keeps the revs where they're supposed to be, it's a beast. But as @GSXRISSA correctly stated, its short wheelbase and light weight make the proper rider part non-optional.

One thing I disagree with, however, is about the propensity for highsides. Coming out of turn 14 at CMP (calabogie), I slide out every time with no fuss at all. I just don't chop the gas.



Mind you, I am NOT that fast on the track. Yellow group.
 

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@GSXRISSA is right though, especially with stock gearing. If you're under 100 mph and you want to give 'er with any semblance of authority, you have to drop all the way down to 1st.

Of course, I'm a pussy. With a proper rider who keeps the revs where they're supposed to be, it's a beast. But as @GSXRISSA correctly stated, its short wheelbase and light weight make the proper rider part non-optional.

One thing I disagree with, however, is about the propensity for highsides. Coming out of turn 14 at CMP (calabogie), I slide out every time with no fuss at all. I just don't chop the gas.



Mind you, I am NOT that fast on the track. Yellow group.
Wo wo wo Now don't get me wrong, I love this bike, and as I mentioned, these qualities are NOT necessarily a bad thing, and you can hang the ass end out, its just easier to do on some other bikes that feel longer.

I drag race my not lowered (ass end is raised 5mm, i maintain my circuit setup) quite often, and have concluded two things from doing so. You are constantly fighting this bike (at least down the quarter) from coming up, more so than others, and the top end power hit isn't as good as a k7/8.

Now having said all that, these may be the same reason's why you want this bike. Speak to people that own a 04/05 ZX10R, its why they love them.

I'll say it again, you won't be disappointed in what ever model you get.

If you are planning on keeping it for a long time, it might be worth waiting around for the k5 as it has the bigger reputation.
 

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Depends what you want to do with the bike.

For road...stock for stock K5 I think would be slightly better mainly for the power delivery which puts more of it down low where you're going to be most likely using it when road riding.

I think the weight difference is not really that noticeable but the K5 has the advantage here too...Plus in the future (and if you care about such things) if prices go up for classic Superbikes, it will be the K5 which benefits more so than the K7.

For track the low down grunt of the K5 can be more of a liability than a help IME so the K7 would be a plus here I believe.

People also say the K5 can be a little twitchy and need some suspension setup as stock...I'm heavy so I think my bulk may have diluted that...as I never noticed (and now I run Ohlins internals). The K5 felt fantastic (stock) at knee down lean, but rough over bumps...I don't think the K7 suspension is much more improved but you get Hi and Lo speed damping on the front which can give you more options.

Rider modes on K7...meh

I'd choose the K7 if it was more for track use and I could fit a lighter single outlet exhaust system...Bit more modern...Better chassis configuration out of the crate.

I'd choose the K5 for more road use, but it still rips on track...You could probably put it's foibles down to more of character than some sort of deficiency. Also to know you have the last of the pure Superbikes has gotta be worth something too :thumbup
 
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