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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've seen this done for other models, so thought I'd post one up for the 05-06 GSXR 1000, might be helpful to some. I aim for this to be some kind of database for others with the same model as a reference, to do's and don'ts as well as a guide.

For the mod's, some are essentials, some are just preferences. For the preferences I'll mention what I know about them and maybe others can chime in a enlighten us.

Please let me/us know your list of preferred mods, along with any comments/recommendations.

Mods;

Engine/Exhaust

- Jetspeedz clutch mod, helps the clutch stand a up to abuse a little more. As far as preferences go, you can actually limit the slip through adjustment or purchasing additional Suzuki WASHER, CAM REACTION WAVE 21621-41G00. This is the same way Yoshimura does it, through number of reaction wave washers, and spring pressure. Most are happy with the standard amount of slip, if you want less add one of these. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/236-05-06-gsx-r1000/136907-05-06-gsxr-1000-clutch-mod-diy-w-lots-pics.html

- SET/EXCVA, usually this will be already done, however if you haven't you can either remove it and clip a resistor in, some people sell them on EBAY, or there is a wire that can be cut to stop the error code from coming up on the dash. Wire number 8 in the grey plug in the ECM (thanks Sam)




- PAIR Delete, without going into the age old debate about negative crank case pressure and whether it is or isn't beneficial, I prefer the least amount of emissions on bike/car as possible. This is just one additional thing to get rid of, again you can get a kit from EBAY which comes with the block off plates as well as a resistor to ensure no error codes flash on the dash.

- Slip on/ full exhaust, factory these come with a pretty decent exhaust, adding a slip on helps get rid of the SET as well as some weight, plus helps get some sound. Is there additional gains with a full, I'm sure there is, however not everyone will want it, plus a tune should be done to utilise the gains. Personally I like the Yoshi Japan stuff the most, the one with the dual outlet.

- Reflash/tune, I personally am not a fan of piggyback computers, however there are a few exceptions, I do not believe these bikes are one of them. There is a how to thread http://www.gixxer.com/forums/236-05-06-gsx-r1000/207938-05-06-us-gsxr-1000-ecm-flash-diy-w-lots-pics.html. Pretty detailed and allows you to do quite a bit more than a piggyback will allow. Things like TRE can be done through this correctly instead of an aftermarket unit to trick the computer. Other trickery such as ECM QS (fuel cut from what I know), secondary valves, deceleration fuel cut disable, ignition dwell, timing, fuelling, secondary injectors, also you can disable a bunch of FI lights from coming on (good if you didn't buy resistors).

- Air filter element. I think Factory would offer the best filtration quality, however everyone wants more HP, this 'usually' comes at the expense of filtration quality.

- Use K7/8 under tank heat insulation, just use three pieces of double sided sticky tape to hold it in place (don't worry it's just to keep it in place when you lift the tank). When you do this ensure the throttle cables/throttle bodies are not hindered in their operation, its only if you let it dangle to far to the left this could be an issue. This is so that you can try and keep the fuel as cool as possible, cold fuel means its denser and will make more power when it does burn, as its also cooler. If you tune for it you can make more power.


Controls

- R1/R6 Throttle tube, once you do this you'll hate yourself for not doing it sooner, I personally run the R1 being about 1/5 turn, 4YR-26240-02, I believe this is the one in R1's till about 06. If you want an even shorter throw/twist throttle, go an 06+ R6, this is about 1/4 twist, and will require some grinding of the killswitch housing, may have to also check throttle cable length P/n 2C0-26240-00-00. Standard twist is about 1/6. I personally prefer the R1 only because of the bikes bigger bottom, helps to modulate throttle while not be to long and having to take a regrip.

- Levers, you can get after market, whatever you like, or just stick to standard. Quick tip 57621-41G10 is a factory Black clutch lever, comes on the 2015+ models. same fit as the earlier models. Good for those with aftermarket M/C's (black brake levers).

- Clip on's, can just shave the locating pin off the factory units or place them a little lower, most like them to face a little more forward. Renthals come with measurements/incremented, makes life a little easier to get even.

- Clutch switch, could not but mention it, I believe its just best to leave as is, as its a normally open circuit (feel free to correct me as its quite late, cant remember exactly). It can be removed if you're good enough to get around the ECM stuff, best to leave it as is.

- Rear sets, you can just get 'risers' as I can't support buying cheaply made chinesium shit for controls, especially with moving parts. Either go local machine shop and get them made or you can get some guy off ebay from Austria I believe, look to be good quality. Or stop being a tight arse and just buy some sexy Attack units.

Brakes

- Brake pads, probably one of the most noticeable things you will do if you're heavy on the brakes. Plenty of information on the internet so wont make suggestions here, generally you're giving up cold braking ability for hot braking ability, and initial bite for modulation.

- Brake lines, what ever you think is pretty. I have goodridge, however the spiegler look good esp seeing they easier to adjust.

- Brembo or alike master cylinder, our bikes like a 19mm or 3/4" Nissin Master cylinder, the replacement unit after the recall is not too bad, just keep it well bled.

- Disc's, ours are the same as 05-08 GSXR 1000 models, bolt patterns changes after that, you can use other year models however, you have to check wheel fitment.

- Calipers, you can use any other GSXR models, K9-L1 use the same pads and locating dowels in the forks, are mono block however, smaller pistons being 30/32 where factory is 30/34 makes for a more wooden feel. Can use later model brembo which use 32/32mm pistons, very similar to factory piston to MC ratio, just have to remove locating dowels from forks, and use different pad design, brake lines can be a little awkward, plus crap bleed nipple location. People have used the R1/R6 monoblocks which come with 30/27mm pistons, I wouldn't bother with these seeing what the mono block Tokico's go for.

Suspension

- Refill factory steering damper, this does wonders, and its another one of the things you'll wish you did sooner. Take your time with it, and make sure you get all the air out. Or just buy an aftermarket one, plenty to chose from.

- most like to shim the ass end, so that you raise the back 5mm, set suspension sag, plenty of DIY's 'Race tech'. I weigh about 85kg and I've max front and rear preload, raising the rear on exacerbates the weak fork spring issue (for heavier riders)

Drive Train

- Change chain and sprocket, these bikes are getting old, and would probably be due for this, if they haven't been done already. Go a 520 pitch, these days the materials are quite better than before, so tensile strength isn't as much as an issue, also they are considerably thinner when seen up close side by side. With regards to number of teeth, this is all subjective, so you chose. The way I see it, if you like to open up first, leave it standard, if you don't use first, sure go -1 +2, but this does make gear 1 near useless, at least with my experience. It's hard enough to keep the front down, let alone if that number of teeth if you get to the throttle stop in 1st that is.

- Quick shifter, many to chose from, did a thread on this recently, waiting on one to arrive before I can give you real feedback. Ideally you want one that doesn't throw FI codes (anything with a cut time over 65ms causes an FI light, unless designed not to) and allows you to change cut times dependant on RPM's and gear selection. I could not find one that exists like this, so if you do, please let us know.

- Swap rear axle so that the nut is on the right side, this is so if you do stack it the exhaust takes the hit, the axle not is not effected. Also depending on where the handle is on the lever you're using when you tighten the nut, should push the wheel forward into the chain adjusters/blocks.

Body

- Tank grips, these things are amazing, nothing like being able to hug your bike with your knees, and actually feel them stick. I got tech specs snake skins and love them. Have used stomp grips, they also good, just a little courser without more grip.

- Double bubble wind screen.

- Frame sliders, this has alot of pro's and cons, some like them some don't, its up to you.

- Case covers, engine covers, these are great, if the bike takes a 100m slide, you may not spill oil with these on, you might even be able to ride home.

- These bikes already look good enough, they don't really need much more.

Tyres/Wheels

- Arguably the most important thing here, buy the best tyres you can for your use. No point buying tyres that require warmers if your ride is only 15 minutes long and on your riding on the street.

Rider

-Arguably the only thing here that is more important than the tyres. Get some seat time, not just in the twisties, go to a track, you'll pick up way more on the track, in the right environment, I know I did.


I'm sure there is a lot more that I haven't covered, please feel free to correct me on any of the above.
 

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For the steering damper refill most used 20wt fork oil. I believe factory was 5wt and most of the factory units were not filled properly.
 

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^I went to 10W and later 15W. It was getting fairly stiff and kept picking up a bit of air. Finally bit the bullet and switched to Ohlins, which solved the problem and made it easy to change the stiffness.

There's a sticky in the general 1000 forum with a link to the service manual. Over 11,000 have found it.

There are lots of other mods that have been described, ex. lightweight wheels, radiator/oil cooler screen, under-tank insulation, improved IAP sensor mount, better oil drain plug, right side rear axle nut.

SET/EXCVA: The idiots saying that pin #30 should be cut are wrong on two counts. First, as best I can tell, that's for K6/K7 600/750, not for K5/K6 1000. Second, don't cut the wire. Instead remove the pin with attached wire from the connector. Finally, plug the hole with either a JAE dummy plug like was used elsewhere on the connector or fashion a plug out of a plastic rod, length of wire, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
^I went to 10W and later 15W. It was getting fairly stiff and kept picking up a bit of air. Finally bit the bullet and switched to Ohlins, which solved the problem and made it easy to change the stiffness.

There's a sticky in the general 1000 forum with a link to the service manual. Over 11,000 have found it.

There are lots of other mods that have been described, ex. lightweight wheels, radiator/oil cooler screen, under-tank insulation, improved IAP sensor mount, better oil drain plug, right side rear axle nut.

SET/EXCVA: The idiots saying that pin #30 should be cut are wrong on two counts. First, as best I can tell, that's for K6/K7 600/750, not for K5/K6 1000. Second, don't cut the wire. Instead remove the pin with attached wire from the connector. Finally, plug the hole with either a JAE dummy plug like was used elsewhere on the connector or fashion a plug out of a plastic rod, length of wire, etc.

Thank you.

I have amended the first post, however I have not been able to add the following under Wheels/tyres as the post is now to long;

- Again people that have done it will say some of the best money they have spent on the bike, it is changing the wheels to lightweight ones. They are expensive, and I have not done so personally, but if I could I would, unsprung and rotating weight loss is the best type, this is both.


Care to elaborate on this 'improved IAP sensor mount'?
 

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Improved IAP mount (#11). The issue is that the IAP is mounted on the airbox and must be detached when the airbox is removed. It's very difficult to unplug the electrical connector without detaching the sensor and it's hard to detach the sensor without unplugging the electrical connector and hose.

I'd forgotten but there's a similar thread to this one here. Note my recommendation of the HIR/9011 high beam in #5. It makes a significant difference but a real HIR bulb is needed, not a look-alike. The Toshiba bulb is discontinued but per this Philips apparently now makes one.

I rarely adjust the idle speed screw but when I do find that the OEM screw is a PITA to turn. I have a thread here about a custom screw that solved the problem.

P.S. Note also that the linked thread mentions the tank mount. It seems that the tank is slightly shorter than it should be such that it's hard to get the front mounting screws to line up with the holes in the frame. It helps to fashion some spacers at the rear mount that move the tank forward a bit. The preferred spacer width seems to be about .1" but the design of the rear pivot bracket bolts means that you're pushing things, i.e. screw engagement length, at about .090". There's a thread about it here.

P.P.S. "you can actually limit the slip through adjustment or purchasing additional Suzuki WASHER, CAM REACTION WAVE 21621-41G00. This is the same way Yoshimura does it, through number of reaction wave washers, and spring pressure. Most are happy with the standard amount of slip, if you want less add one of these." Yoshimura Japan sells lighter and heavier reaction wave washers so that you can fine tune the slip. See here and here.
 

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Great thread - a lot of these tips from older posts get lost (or I'm just too stupid to find them haha). Shame that Bugman's GSXR site is no longer around, at least I found the dealer switch instructions through the Way Back Machine.

BillV - can you repost pictures of your IAP mount? I checked that thread you liked to but I guess it was hosted on Photobucket or something...

Finally getting around to so some long overdue projects on my K6 - now the dealer mode switch, does anyone know if the extra wires or that OEM plug is used for anything else? Because I thinking I might just cut off the connector, close off the ends of the extra wires and add a switch directly?

Just another thought - has anyone added the dealer mode switch to the dash/controls area for easy access? Considering that the codes are cleared if you turn the bike off..? It will only be a track bike, so the race tail will be quick to remove anyway, but still I'm just thinking of ease of use.

Cheers!
 

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It's Tinypic (owned by Photobucket) whose images can't be seen any more. No idea why.

Here are the IAP mount pics:
http://i62.tinypic.com/xn8bgk.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2i8jc5g.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2d167m1.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/zwdge0.jpg

I was worried enough about cutting the mounting boss off of the OEM sensor that I bought some spares on ebay (they come up cheap if you watch for them). But the modified sensor is still fine years later.

I too wanted easier access to dealer mode but didn't want to go so far as to mount it up front. Here's what I came up with:
http://i43.tinypic.com/fjnwk0.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/2w4wihg.jpg

It uses a lighted pushbutton switch where the light comes on in dealer mode. The O/W lead powers the light. It's accessable via the rear compartment, which means that I have to use a spare key to open it if I want to keep the engine running. A track bike may have easier (or maybe harder) access. It might give you some ideas.

Yoshimura sells a pricey kit that allows you to easily adjust the idle without removing anything (not sure but it may need to be rethreaded for K5/K6). That's fine for a track bike where you're constantly fiddling with things. But otherwise I like my modified screw.

I also have a thread about a brighter and better positioned shift light. Here's a pic:
http://i50.tinypic.com/1zgtiy1.jpg

When I first got my K6 I found it disconcerting how easily my legs slid on the tank, i.e. I couldn't grip it. So I installed a Stomp Grip - cut down a bit, there's a pic here somewhere. Early on it felt like it was too much - but the sliding was definitely gone. Nowadays I don't even think about it. However it's my impression that the pros don't use them as it hinders their ability to move around on the bike.

P.S. GSXRISSA's right about a more wooden feel with the K9-L1 calipers because of their smaller piston size. The trick is to also use the K9-L1 M/C, which has a smaller piston. With a Brembo RCS it means using their 17 RCS instead of the 19 RCS. It results in a 26.8 area ratio, which is essentially optimum.
 

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Awesome, cheers for that and the extra info!

So no one knows about the OEM dealer switch plug with the two extra wires?

The brakes - so pretty much the Monobloc Tokikos with 17mm Brembo MC would be the best setup you couldn’t have without spending silly money on aftermarket calipers?? I have been happy with the stock calipers and Brembo 19 RCS, But will be due for discs soon and any other big gains are always worth considering.
 

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If you mean the eight pin black connector, I understand it to be used to fine tune the fuel mixtures at the factory and for connection to a Yoshbox for similar reasons after the fact. The latter is somewhat obsolete now that the ECM has been hacked.

The following area ratios may be of interest:
K5-K8 OEM 22.7
K9-L1 OEM 25.3
K9-L1 with K5-K8 MC 21.3
K5-K8 with K9-L1 MC 27.0
K5-K8 with RCS 19 22.8
K9-L1 with RCS 19 21.4
K5-K8 with RCS 17 28.5
K9-L1 with RCS 17 26.8
In general, 20 is wooden, 23 is firm, 27 is optimal, and 30 is soft. Note that these are just the hydraulic ratios. I'm of the opinion that the combined hydraulic and mechanical (lever) ratio should be looked at. But there's significantly less information about mechanical ratios.

If you search here, you'll find that the K5-K8 calipers are not well thought of but the K9-L1 calipers are considered to be better than the later Brembos. I've recently posted a link to a WERA forum where they were raving about them. Also see #53 & #55 here.
 

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Cheers - yeah it will be the 8-pin connector i’m referring to, I just remember there were a lot of unused slots. I think I’ll just cut the connector off, never used those other wires so far and like you say with ECU flashing there’s not much else you can’t do.

Wow thanks for the hydraulic ratios, will come back to reference this when I get around to upgrading now brakes.
 

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Cheers - yeah it will be the 8-pin connector i’m referring to, I just remember there were a lot of unused slots. I think I’ll just cut the connector off, never used those other wires so far and like you say with ECU flashing there’s not much else you can’t do.

Wow thanks for the hydraulic ratios, will come back to reference this when I get around to upgrading now brakes.
https://www.gixxer.com/forums/9510784-post487.html
There you can find proper connector for SDS.
 

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I cringe at cutting the wiring harness. With regard to the 8-pin connector, be aware that the B/Br lead is the sensors ground and the R lead is the +5V sensors supply. They need to be treated with respect. Rather than cut the various blue leads, you could do a bit of tape wrap unbundling and simply remove them all the way back to the ECM. Then plug the empty holes in the ECM connector. It's been mentioned before that the mating male connector is Kawasaki 26011-1773 and runs around $8. When I bought one years ago it came with the pins and seals. Don't know why but Ridgeracer seems to have only gotten the shell when he bought his.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thought I might add more to this seeing as I've had a bit more time playing with it.

For the clutch, you can essentially 'turn off' the slipper through removing the three adjustment pins. This removes the clutch's ability to limit torque when the rear wheel locks due to compression... Just ride safer if you do this.

I ended up with a Translogic quickshifter, got nothing but good things to say, the unit is quality. The only thing I'd add to it is the ability to change cut times per gear not just rpm... Apart from that it's a great unit.

I run the later model GSXR brembos, and although they cop a lot of slack, they are quite good items. Provided you have good pads, bleed them well, have braided lines and use an after market MC (that's the whole system right?) they seem to pull up fine coming into turn 2 at Eastern Creek from 220km.

With regard to the PAIR, there are some things you can do to it to create a more optimal environment in the motor other than just deleting it however, everyone seems to have an opinion about it.

Also attached a table of interchangeable front wheels/disc's... Later model rims are considerably lighter, so you can also get a new front wheel/disc's.

Few other things I'll add when I remember.
 

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There's a lot of personal preference involved with an exhaust but my favorite slip-on is the Yoshimura R77. For reasons unknown to me they've never listed it for the K5/K6. But the 14" CRR77146W muffler plus the TRC standard midpipe 1116-435 fits like it was made for the bike. I use an R-R-Racing hanger and a Yoshimura strap. I've mentioned this to Yoshimura but they never did anything with it. The shorter 12" CRR77126W muffler also fits but it will be louder.
 
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