jsut got a set of black woodcraft engine case covers and race slider pucks, any1 have any helpful hints on installation b4 i tackle this project.....
Good advise but there is no need for silicone at all.Clean the engine where the old gasket was with a razor blade - get all the old grime off (use brake parts cleaner if you want, but try not to get any in the engine - spray it on a rag and then wipe). Still use the razor though to ensure that everything is scraped off and flush.
Get some high temp black silicone sealant and bead it around the seam where the bottom and top half of the engine are on either side of the stator (or, just bead it all around - can't hurt so long as you don't put too much on). You'll want a fair amount, like maybe a 2mm by 2mm (w x h) bead of silicone.
Put the new gasket on, make sure you have the metal dowels in place on the engine (btw, if they're stuck in the old cover, get a torch and heat up the cover - then just tap out the dowel!) and watch your fingers as mentioned! Be careful and line it up as best you can - when you get too close the magneto just sucks the thing closed. Position it good, hand tighten the bolts (a few should have washers - make sure all bolts go back in the right spots) until the silicone beads out just a bit.
Wait an hour or whatever the instructions on the silicone say, then torque to 7 ft/lb. If you don't have a torque wrench (contrary to what njracer says, I recommend not using one, as you'd have to have a REALLY good torque wrench to have it accurately determine such a low torque), 7 ft/lb isn't tight at all really.
For written explanation of 7 ft/lb, screw the bolt on until you feel resistance, then crank it just lightly - you shouldn't have to put any weight in to it - like as if you were screwing a screw into a pre-drilled piece of wood - tight, but not that tight. You can also guess how tight it should be by how hard it is to take off the bolt, minus a bit of effort since the bolts kinda "stick" after time, so you force a bit, it breaks and then just comes out easily - 7 ft/lb is just hand tight with a ratchet.
Tighten the bolts in a star configuration until they all feel equally right. If you put the bike on a front stand (only - difficult but possible), there shouldn't even be any reason to drain the oil from the bike. After riding, the next day, recheck the bolts to ensure they're still on tight - they may loosen up a bit after riding with it as the metals settle in.
Most importantly, take your time and have fun working on the bike - rushing things and you might miss something and think *oh shit* only after you try to start the bike!
I used red Loctite. The screws can be heated up with a torch and then removed no problem. Following the directions I would agree it is better safe than sorry. Also, use the silicone. Can't hurt and worked fine on mine (with the gasket per the OEM manual directions). Later,What I meant to say is, I have permanent and then I have high temperature thread lock...which should I use?
I pulled it off my 2001 before I sold it! I bought it wrecked on Ebay for like $350, it had a titanium sleeve at the time. I have since rebuilt it with a carbon sleeve.dam...30 miles and already full system? you people dont play
Thanks man, looks pimp.
Looks like wave rotors too....I think I had all of 30 miles on her when I took those. Since I have put on a Scott's Damper, TRE, shimmed the rear shock, and obviously the case covers.