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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys.

I've seen a very old thread recently about this mod also i noticed some pictures that made me wonder if its safe.
that thread claims 1.5/2hp improvement and i have some questions also about it.

so here are the pics


pair1.jpg


pair3.jpg


pair6.jpg


pair7.jpg


pair8.jpg


The hole of the airbox that connects to the crankcase cover will be closed.


Here also the video on Utube that explains that there is a negative crank pressure
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so at the moment i'm running full yoshi pipe,ive flashed ecu,tuned pcv and my pair valve is like the 1st pic and there is
a hose that is connecting the two pair holes together that's all. and crankcase hose goes straight to airbox like stock. is that better? safer?

and my question is:
1.there is no way out for the "fumes" of the crankcase cause now these are connected to the pair valve. is this safe?
2.do i miss something here or that's all safe everyday?
3.is the procedure above correct?

Also i want someone to explain me how this works correct and if there is any risk or if there is something more to be mentioned about this mod.

Thanks in advance
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Hi ya well I can't say if this is the best set up but I just blanked off the pair valve the same as your pic one but didn't T off and go to the engine
It's run perfectly on track like this for years and now my brother has the new gsxr prc performance that build race bikes in bsb (which is the British superbikes) set it up the same only difference is they have proper blacking plates
I hope this helps

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Discussion Starter #3
yes at the moment i have it done same as u. could you get some more info if you got the proper friend to en light us?
 

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Hi yes I can ask pcr to see if your way will be better and at the same time safe
May take a bit of time as now we are partly in lock down
Regards

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Yeah, except that video of the vacuum show nothing really! The engine is not revved over 3-4K! When revved, I've seen a video of the vacuum climbing with the R's.
There are many posts about dyno proven HP gains. In the tens to twenties w/ using vacuum pumps on larger displacement V8's.
Dyno proven about 2 HP on bikes like a Gixxer.
The first pictures are the usual way, with the PAIR reed valves left intake- hence the slight vacuum from the exhaust port. Doesn't work with block off plates obviously.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i would like to know about the way with the T hose. if you can help me figure out the point 馃
 

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When I had the k1 we done the same with the T but instead of going back to the engine like in your pic we put it in a alloy bow with little baffle plates to collect the oil mist then had another return pipe going back to the engine in the same way that got rid of the pressure build up from the pistons
Not sure if it gave me anymore bhp
Regards

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i would like to know about the way with the T hose. if you can help me figure out the point 馃
The Point? OK
The PAIR - system - stock draws in outside air, via the air filter housing by means of a selenoid valve/switch that is regulated by things- mostly engine RPM.
It draws in air at idle, lower rpms to aid in cleaning up the exhaust emissioins at low or idle speeds.
The system works by a venturi effect- FROM THE EXHAUST VALVES ONLY.

The PAIR block off mod, simply blocks off the system by various methods- all producing the same result- blocking any air into the system. The purpose of this was to eliminate and/or cut down on the exhaust 'popping' when decelerating.

The Pair sucker mod- uses the vacuum created by the exhaust system/port in the cylinder head to draw suction. Just like stock.
But now, one deletes/unhooks the selenoid hoses and runs a 'T' fitting between the 2 Pair reed valves on the cylinder head valve cover. You can just run a hose betwen the 2- BUT that just accomplishes what the 'block off' mod does, let no air in the reed valves.

Instead- The 'T' is then hooked to crankcase breather hose - directly- to draw a vacuum on the crankcase a little- hence on these motors- a reproducible 2 HP gain on the dyno.
Doing this WILL MESS UP the active O2 sensor and the 'on the fly' air/fuel ratio system on the newer, self tuning bikes.
Mine did not have this system, hence it working well on mine.

Your pictures you posted- the orange hose- those look good/correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Point? OK
The PAIR - system - stock draws in outside air, via the air filter housing by means of a selenoid valve/switch that is regulated by things- mostly engine RPM.
It draws in air at idle, lower rpms to aid in cleaning up the exhaust emissioins at low or idle speeds.
The system works by a venturi effect- FROM THE EXHAUST VALVES ONLY.
so your opinion about the procedure above? its safe? its pressure will be helpfull?
pros cons? something?
 

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so your opinion about the procedure above? its safe? its pressure will be helpfull?
pros cons? something?
I had read many posts on this over many years before doing it on mine.
To answer your questions- in my opinion- after my research on it.
Yes it's safe.
The Negative pressure is a little helpful- proven- it's small.
Pro's- already mentioned.
Con's- if you don't do it- it's no real big change really anyway.
You would loose out on about 2 pk HP, when it already makes at least 150 pk HP at the wheel anyways.
Ir you don't add a resister, or leave the selenoid there with the wire plugged in, you WILL get a FI code light in the dash.

Maybe you could do a google search and read up on a few of them, maybe? I'm not trying to be rude, I've given you my opinion of hours of my searches.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had read many posts on this over many years before doing it on mine.
To answer your questions- in my opinion- after my research on it.
Yes it's safe.
The Negative pressure is a little helpful- proven- it's small.
Pro's- already mentioned.
Con's- if you don't do it- it's no real big change really anyway.
You would loose out on about 2 pk HP, when it already makes at least 150 pk HP at the wheel anyways.
Ir you don't add a resister, or leave the selenoid there with the wire plugged in, you WILL get a FI code light in the dash.

Maybe you could do a google search and read up on a few of them, maybe? I'm not trying to be rude, I've given you my opinion of hours of my searches.
but k5/6 has no O2 sensor right? so its ok?
thanks for your info. that's one side. lets see if someone else has something more to mention on the other side
tnanks
 

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"k5/6 has no O2 sensor right?"
Right. But European K5/K6's came with a catalytic converter in the muffler.
 

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I think what others have mentioned is more about tuning.

You could simply block it while tuning, then once done with fueling reconnect it.

Yeah, except that video of the vacuum show nothing really! The engine is not revved over 3-4K! When revved, I've seen a video of the vacuum climbing with the R's.
There are many posts about dyno proven HP gains. In the tens to twenties w/ using vacuum pumps on larger displacement V8's.
Dyno proven about 2 HP on bikes like a Gixxer.
The first pictures are the usual way, with the PAIR reed valves left intake- hence the slight vacuum from the exhaust port. Doesn't work with block off plates obviously.
As I stated, the video was made to prove that vacumm is created from the PAIR system.

The V8's you speak of also create A LOT more blow by than a modern litre sports bike, the lower limit of a engine is to produce 182psi+++ per cylinder in static compression, I dare say on a tight litre sports bike there is little blow by.

As mentioned earlier, there are other pro's for this mod, and its not just about blow by.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm running a full Yoshi so there is no catalytic converter. And on my previous tune i did the pair block mod without the (T) hose also flashed the ECU as i mentioned so there won't be any F light.
I'm on this stage atm.
So now before i proceed to the T hose sucker mod I would like to get all the info I need.
Pretty much "what?" Answered most of my questions and we keep going
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I wonder if you could put a check valve in the line between the crankcase breather and the front?
To make sure that exhaust fumes don't get in your cases, and block off the two holes on the air box. To make a little more positive air pressure, in the air box. When the ram air starts working. Little more positive air pressure, ( a little more horsepower).
I even plug my water drains in my ram air tubes, to block all of the holes I can.
Have a good one 馃弽馃弽馃弽
 
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