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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All. I have a K4 GSXR 600 that is Cutting out and Shutting Off after about an hour( give or take) into a ride.
"CHEC" comes up and it stalls very unexpectedly. No jerking or anything but like a switch just turns off. I can try to restart using starter while rolling. As long as the "CHEC' is there it will not restart. Then the 'CHEC" disappers and I restart or it restarts on its own while rolling. I have done a search on the forum and I believe it may be my ECU.
Anyone heard of ECU problems on the K4's?
 

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Could be the ECM, but could also be the kickstand interlock, or even the kill switch failing and turning things off. First thing to do would be bypass both and see if the problem persists.
 

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I have exactly the same problem on my 750 k5.

It started going over bumps, so I immediately thought side stand switch, but don't really want to bridge the wires without putting in a diode, so I just cleaned it up a bit. Didn't work.

Then when sat at the lights in neutral yesterday, it did it again. This would appear to eliminate the side stand switch as the cause right? Because in neutral it shouldn't cause the engine to shut down and Chec to appear on the dash. Neutral light works, so the ECU knows it's in neutral.

So I cleaned the kill switch contacts with abrasive, all looked good anyway, but that still didn't solve it.

Next I'm going to bridge the kill switch wires at the connector block, see if that does anything to help.

Any other suggestions?
 

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Mine just gets worse until the bike cools down. For example, I can ride 30 or 40 minutes with no issue, then it dies and I restart and ride maybe 15 minutes, then it will cut out again after 5 or so minutes and eventually get to the point that even pulling away is impossible. The more I persist in forcing it to run, the more it cuts out. When it cut out stopped at the traffic lights I had done only a few hundred meters since it had last cut out.
 

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Yea. Mine does the same as above. If you try to keep starting it, if it starts it will only run for a second. If i let it cool down then it will run for 45 mins to hour and then repeat. Once its hot you can turn it off and turn the key back and the check engine light may be on and if it is then it will not start. But, you can turn the key back off and turn it back on and the check engine light will be gone and it will start but only run momentarily unless its had time to cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi. Thanks for the replies. Yes mine does the same. I can ride for about an hour with no problems at all. Infact for the last month I have purposely only ride under an hour so it won't cut out and it has been perfect. Once the cutting out starts, it will continue until I let the bike rest. The longer I let it rest, the longer it will run for next time, before cutting out again.
Firstly, make sure your side stand is being pulled up tight by the springs and the switch is closing all the way. First and easiest to check.

Then, Next time the bike stalls, start checking by turning the key switch ON/Off. Does this remove "CHEC"? If no, turn your Kill switch ON/OFF. Does this remove "CHEC". If no, then put side stand Down/Up. Does this remove "CHEC"? If yes, then bridge the side stand terminals. Let me know how you go.
 

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I've already checked my stand. No way it moves, the plunger on the switch goes all the way in and the springs are intact and strong, and my bike will even cut out when stopped, so if it is the stand switch it must be the reed switch or the wiring failing due to vibration / heat.
After cutting out and Chec appearing on the display, mine normally corrects itself after a few seconds and the pump primes and I can start it. A few times that it has not cleared itself and I have had time to try things out, nothing that you suggest corrects it, not flicking the kill switch, nor lowering / retracting the stand. The only way to clear the Chec message and get the ECM back online is to switch off the ignition and turn back on.
But that is only required maybe 1 in every 10 failures.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes that is what mine (is)was doing. It will ride perfect for upto an hour, then it will start cutting out. Once it cuts out, it just keeps doing it. The longer I let it rest, the longer I can ride before next cut out. That's why I think it's heat related. And, yes my bike corrects itself aswell, everytime, usually after about 30 seconds, sometimes sooner. That's why it's so hard to diagnose, because by the time I get off the bike, it has already reset.

You have to be careful, because sometimes I even thought that flicking a switch or the keys is what fixed it, but most likely the bike is already resetting itself at the same time as you are moving the switch. The best time to do the tests is on about the third stall when the bike usually stays offline longer.

Believe me, I know it's a pain. I went out for a ride on the weekend to try to get it to cut out on me as many times as possible. I rode for almost 3 hours before it would start cutting out. And even then it would most times reset before I could do some tests.
 

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I must say I had only one similiar experience on 750 k6 when it turned out the alarm wires were badly soldered and after a couple of years since its installation it started cutting out but sometimes immediately coming back on all depending on the road conditions, temperature etc. Once had a problem with the sidestand switch too but that was a weak spring... Good luck, all those intermittent problems are sometimes difficult to solve. Did You try 'moving' any wires under the seat when problem occurs to see if the current comes back on?
 

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Yeah, it is really frustrating because it is virtually impossible to replicate the fault when off the bike in the garage. Sometimes I wish it would just "stay dead" so that I can trace the issue.

I have tried "wiggling" the cables going to the kill switch, the side stand switch, the flahser / side stand relay, the battery, the fuse box... but nothing makes it cut out like it does on the road. The problem with this is that you have to test it with the engine running and in gear... and honestly, trying to provoke a stalling situation with the bike on the paddock stand in the garage with the rear wheel being driven by the motor is not really what I would call best practice....

I have read about the alarm issue on another thread, but that was also for a K6 which I believe had a dedicated alarm block connector on the loom, the 750 / 600 K5 doesn't seem to have this and my bike seems to have never had an alarm fitted.

In fact, most threads on this or similar issues seem to tail off after a few months with no clear solution... not very confidence inspiring.

I hope that between the three of us we can get this thread to a close with a solution for us all.

I will have another play around with mine at the weekend and feedback with any findings.
 

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On my bike the mechanic just cut wires and soldered alarm into the loom. And what I meant was rather fiddling with wires in the area where alarm might be connected/soldered when You get a stall on the road and cannot start it to see if it helps to get the bike going...
That worked for me and I knew where the problem was then. I'm not saying it's definitely the case of course.
 

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If heat is always the common factor, it seems like the ECM is the issue.
This is my fear.

But before searching for a good used ECM (which is likely to also be faulty), I plan to work from the kill switch and the side stand, eliminating components, connectors and wiring until I am effectively left with only the ECM as the culprit, unless I stumble upon something else on the way...

If that happens I will consider my options. Buying a new ECM from Suzuki is out of the question, I would be better off breaking the bike and selling the parts individually, which would be sad, but economically the best solution.
 

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I wouldn't. These bikes are well into their teenage years. Lots of heat cycles on the chips, lots of vibration. Things just deteriorate. I'm surprised we don't see it more.
 

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