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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so here is my issue just bought an 03 gsxr 1000 with 22k miles , I notices after doing an oil and filter change that the bike is blowing blue smoke... the weird thing is when it blows the smoke... it only does it after idling for a while when u give it some throttle... if I'm riding around its not smoking.... if I stop at a red light for a minute it doesn't smoke, but when I give it throttle when the light turns green it will blow a cloud of smoke then stop... so the symptoms are it only blows a cloud of smoke when u give it throttle for the first time after its warmed up and been idling for a while... the longer it idles the bigger the cloud of smoke.
 

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Usually smoking after idling a period is a result of worn valve guide seals. The sitting still idling allows more oil to puddle up around the valve seals and when you gas it to take off (or rev) the sudden opening creates suction through the leaking seal sucking in the resting oil and smoking. When driving the oil doesn't have an opportunity to puddle like that so no smoking while driving. By comparison, if you have piston rings leaking it is normally smoking any time you give it gas while riding... so not just after idling/still for a certain period.

Before jumping to any conclusions though, pop your air filter housing off and make sure the vacuum lines on it and the valve cover are all intact, nothing routed funny etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll check it out thanks, I just cap off the oil burned about a quarter of a quart after a thousand miles, just cleaned the air filter and did plugs too, I think there were 3 lines going to the air filter box... vacuum, breather, and PAIR, then 2 sensors. I think I put it back the way it was acted the same before and after, runs great...what am I looking for with the valve cover and "funny routing"
 

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Fixed your title for you. You have a K3 btw...
 

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I'll check it out thanks, I just cap off the oil burned about a quarter of a quart after a thousand miles, just cleaned the air filter and did plugs too, I think there were 3 lines going to the air filter box... vacuum, breather, and PAIR, then 2 sensors. I think I put it back the way it was acted the same before and after, runs great...what am I looking for with the valve cover and "funny routing"

A PAIR hose or vent hose to the bottom of the filter housing stretched to reach the wrong location etc. It would be obvious.
Sounds like it is probably valve seals... won't affect performance to any great degree, but will annoy people behind you at stop lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought the 01/02 models were the k1, the 03/04 models were the k2, and so on... I mean 01 and 02 are the same bike right? And the 03 and 04 are the same. Anyways valve guides are easier to do than rings right? Just pull valve cover gasket? I might as well do clearances and new springs whill I'm in there, I just flashed the ecu and it to rev limit from 12 to like 13.5 which seems really high on stock springs, but my mechancic said they were designed for that but detuned/restricted for sales in the u.s.
 

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No, K1 = 2001, K2 = 2002, etc...
 

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I thought the 01/02 models were the k1, the 03/04 models were the k2, and so on... I mean 01 and 02 are the same bike right? And the 03 and 04 are the same. Anyways valve guides are easier to do than rings right? Just pull valve cover gasket? I might as well do clearances and new springs whill I'm in there, I just flashed the ecu and it to rev limit from 12 to like 13.5 which seems really high on stock springs, but my mechancic said they were designed for that but detuned/restricted for sales in the u.s.
Find a new mechanic, the K3/K4 motors are not designed to rev that high.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I thought that sounded sketchy I took that high a couple times by accident not paying attention and it felt like the shit was just floating didn't even hit the limiter... weird thing is before I even flashed it it had a pc3 mapped up to 12k... I tried red lining it with the pc3 and it went to like 13k before I got sketched out and up shifted.... I'm just afraid I'm gonna down shift when I should up shift and muff her up. I have her setup for gp shifting but the bikes I sell are all standard shift sometimes I forget which bike I'm on haha... Anyway does flash tune have adjustable rev limiter? Can I take the rev limit back to 12k with the flash tune software?
 

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Why keep it in a mode you're not comfortable with, nor gives you any real benefit on street riding? Especially when the consequences can result in a very dead motorcycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't want the rev limiter there... but I don't have the software to change it, and I don't know if it's even adjustable with the flash or if it's locked in at 13.5 does anyone know if u can set the rev limiter where ever u want with flash tune ecu
 

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I don't want the rev limiter there... but I don't have the software to change it, and I don't know if it's even adjustable with the flash or if it's locked in at 13.5 does anyone know if u can set the rev limiter where ever u want with flash tune ecu
I'm talking about GP shifting.
 

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Don't change the rev limiter. You will just blow your motor running it to 13.5K rpm. You are not racing for the MotoGP title.

The reciprocating forces are approximately squared in relation to rpm. A race motor that is operating within the design of the reciprocating forces at 13.5K rpm will blow a conrod with as little as 200 rpm over the limit.

I think it was the K9 that Suzuki recommended dropping the race rpm limit by 250 rpm to prevent engine failures.

You may just have leaking valve guide seals. You can confirm this by removing the headers and looking to see if some exhaust valves stems are clean and others have carbon on them. The clean valve stems will be the leaking seals and/or valve guides.

A compression check and leak down test will quickly determine the health of the piston ring seal and wether it may be leaking rings. However as superbovine mentioned, leaking rings blow smoke all of the time.
 

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Find a new mechanic, the K3/K4 motors are not designed to rev that high.
I concur!!:fact

Since all this stuff is going on with the valve train, time to take the head off and send it to someone for porting and a complete valve job! Plus have him take off 0.005 off the head for clean up. some people go more but thats up to you. Match it up to a thinner head gasket too for a bump in compression. Might as well get some Web cams with matching springs. After this you will be happier and faster.:cheers
 

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Usually smoking after idling a period is a result of worn valve guide seals. The sitting still idling allows more oil to puddle up around the valve seals and when you gas it to take off (or rev) the sudden opening creates suction through the leaking seal sucking in the resting oil and smoking. When driving the oil doesn't have an opportunity to puddle like that so no smoking while driving. By comparison, if you have piston rings leaking it is normally smoking any time you give it gas while riding... so not just after idling/still for a certain period.

Before jumping to any conclusions though, pop your air filter housing off and make sure the vacuum lines on it and the valve cover are all intact, nothing routed funny etc.
This is bullseye, dead on advice for explaining your problem.:chucks
 

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Just noticed you said after an oil change "the bike is blowing blue smoke". Maybe you did something wrong during oil change and there is nothing wrong with the motor.
 

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Sounds silly but Iv seen bikes that have too much oil blow blue smoke ... How much did you put in ???
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm talking about GP shifting.
I like GP style so i'm not catching my toe on the upshift when I'm on twisties, but i keep the bikes i flip in standard because most people ride standard. I am very comfortable with GP, that's why i flipped the link.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just noticed you said after an oil change "the bike is blowing blue smoke". Maybe you did something wrong during oil change and there is nothing wrong with the motor.
dont think it was the oil change, oil level was fine after the oil change, and as i said the oil change was 1000 miles ago and I've burned off about a quarter of a quart of oil in that 1000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Don't change the rev limiter. You will just blow your motor running it to 13.5K rpm. You are not racing for the MotoGP title.

The reciprocating forces are approximately squared in relation to rpm. A race motor that is operating within the design of the reciprocating forces at 13.5K rpm will blow a conrod with as little as 200 rpm over the limit.

I think it was the K9 that Suzuki recommended dropping the race rpm limit by 250 rpm to prevent engine failures.

You may just have leaking valve guide seals. You can confirm this by removing the headers and looking to see if some exhaust valves stems are clean and others have carbon on them. The clean valve stems will be the leaking seals and/or valve guides.

A compression check and leak down test will quickly determine the health of the piston ring seal and wether it may be leaking rings. However as superbovine mentioned, leaking rings blow smoke all of the time.
as I said, I didn't want the rev limit increased, that's just where the flash took it (flash tune ECU) Does anyone know if you can set the rev limit to stock with the FT ECU software, or is it locked in where ever the flash puts it?
 
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