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I can just hear it on my K7 750.

If I give it a blip in neutral, clutch in clutch out, it's much more pronounced, but idle it's only slightly noticeable. You have to be concentrating, when I am out riding I don't notice it.
 

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Hmm....then I think there's something not quite right with my bike's clutch. Well, I'm not going to bother with it since its not giving any trouble right now. Going to ride the bike more than fixing it! :D
 

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I put mine in a few weeks ago but just now got the rest of the bike together-this definitely fixed it! I put Brock's blue springs in it as well, and it's velvety smooth, predictable, awesome. Before it was literally impossible to leave at anything above an idle. Best $7 I ever spent. Clutch pull is alil heavier but I attribute that more to the springs I put in.
 

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I've pulled out my clutch and am about to put it back together with the zx10 steel. I just want to confirm the order to put everything back in. With an empty basket what goes in first? Is it the zx10 steel or is it a fibre and then the steel, then fibre steel etc. and leave one fibre out of the middle. Please help as I don't want to fuck it up.
 

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Pretty sure you Start with a fibre and end with one. So fibre - ZX10 Steel - Fibre - Steel - and so on. Take a fibre out mid pack if needed. I measured my stack before re-assembling and needed to take the extra fibre out as it was too tall. This was on my 2001 gsxr.

Made a huge difference. Taking it to a TNT tonight to test on the strip.
 

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Pretty sure you Start with a fibre and end with one. So fibre - ZX10 Steel - Fibre - Steel - and so on. Take a fibre out mid pack if needed. I measured my stack before re-assembling and needed to take the extra fibre out as it was too tall. This was on my 2001 gsxr.

Made a huge difference. Taking it to a TNT tonight to test on the strip.
Thanks mate, I've done it that way. Going to test it out next Wednesday at the drags, can't wait.
 

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Howd you go with the clutch?
Haven't been to the track to give it a proper test but just rode it around the block a few times it feels really good. Smooth and able to slip it more easily, not grabby or shuddering like it was before.
Such a cool mod for only $20, it didn't even need adjusting when I put it back together. The clutch bites just a bit after releasing the lever. We'll see how it goes at the track in about a week.

Did you take yours racing yet? How'd it go?
 

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Hi all,

I tried doing this mod today with the 2004 zx10 clutch plate but it didn't work with my 06 gsxr1000... The clutch plate is smaller in diamter and the teeth doesn't line up... I've read other members with the same model were able to do it...

anyone know why it's not working? I wonder the reason why this work resolve the clutch issue.. Is it because the thickness of the zx10 clutch plate? if that's the case, can't remove the wave washers and put an extra steel gsxr1000 clutch plate?
 

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Just joined to say THANK YOU to everyone who posted pictures, part numbers, and testimonials in this thread. :cheers

My wife's '01 GSXR1000 was showing all of the crappy problems starting from a stop discussed here.

Using the info in this thread I bought the ZX-10R plate and the thin steels to try and fix her bike. Worked out perfectly.

There was a very slight change in the stack height, maybe 5/64", with the new steels installed, but it required ZERO clutch adjustments to work. One thing I did notice was the previous mechanic did not install the last fiber plate like the manual wanted. It was installed in the housing exactly the same as all the other fibers. Not sure if it effected the clutch at all, just a mental note made during disassemble.

Thanks again everyone. Now I won't feel dread when I have to take her bike out for a ride and I won't look like it's my first time taking off from a stop anymore. :)
 

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^Luke! You been MIA! Where you been man??

I see you have a turbo bike now. You still have your black K3/K4?
 

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Just joined to say THANK YOU to everyone who posted pictures, part numbers, and testimonials in this thread. :cheers

My wife's '01 GSXR1000 was showing all of the crappy problems starting from a stop discussed here.

Using the info in this thread I bought the ZX-10R plate and the thin steels to try and fix her bike. Worked out perfectly.

There was a very slight change in the stack height, maybe 5/64", with the new steels installed, but it required ZERO clutch adjustments to work. One thing I did notice was the previous mechanic did not install the last fiber plate like the manual wanted. It was installed in the housing exactly the same as all the other fibers. Not sure if it effected the clutch at all, just a mental note made during disassemble.

Thanks again everyone. Now I won't feel dread when I have to take her bike out for a ride and I won't look like it's my first time taking off from a stop anymore. :)

Glad you found it useful! Even if you dont dragrace, these clutch issues can be a real pain in the ass

I dont think suzuki EVER intended for the alternate thicknesses of the plates to be used for anything but initial setup of the clutch pack at the factory (aiming for a certain clutch pack height), but damn I'm glad they made them available as a regular OEM part!



I spent years in corporate america as a financial analyst for major corporations..... I'd just love to know that somewhere, theres a guy in japan looking at sales records, and scratching his head saying..... "why the hell do we keep selling so many of these odd sizes..... ????" hehe :)
 

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Old thread I know but I recently purchased a K1 1000 and was shocked at how bad the clutch was when launching in anything more than 'super sedate' mode. In fact even when taking off super sedately in an uphill position it would still judder :S

I did this mod a few weeks back and can't rate it highly enough. I can launch the bike as hard as I want now and the clutch performs perfectly.
The only drawback is that the clutch lever is heavier now but it is hardly overly heavy or a problem.

+1 for this mod on the 1000.
 

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Hi jjman,

This thread is a life saver. I also did the same mod and it is fantastic! Thanks to all who helped with the clutch problem.

SK
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Another tip that may help with an easier clutch pull is to take off the sprocket cover and have a look at the arm that the clutch cable connects to.
Look at how the arm swings off the worm drive when you pull on the clutch lever.
At the half way point of the clutch lever pull, the arm should be at the horizontal.
The arm should be below this point at the beginning and above horizontal with the clutch pulled all the way in. This will make the leverage correct.
I found I had to put a small metal ball inside the worm drive before the clutch pushrod to get this correct.
It made a big difference if you want to put in the time to make it correct.

This is assuming your clutch cable is well lubricated and correctly routed.
 

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doing this now (7 years on)
 

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So.....its just these 4 you should be left with yes?
 

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