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+1

worked perfect on my gsxr 1000 k1
previous was very very bucky
also drilled the holes in the clutch basket
can do wild drag launches now and use as much rpm as i want!

only thing was that in australia i found the part hard to find, ended up buying it online from gsxr spares for about $50 + postage.
 

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old post for sure but i have a question:

while trying this mod i parted out the pieces and found in my K1 i didn't had the 11 and 12 parts needed to be removed...


so i moved on, i couldn't replace the pressure plate for the clutch to act like it should so i removed one fiber from the stack and i figured i had then to remove another steel plate ???i didn't tried it yet,

but how does the ones who only removed one fiber plate did exactly?
at one point you should have somewhere a fiber meeting directly another fiber right? or i missed something here?
 

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It's very simple. Remove the wave washer and seat at the base of the basket. Replace the first steel (at the bottom of the basket) with the cushion. build it up then with fiber-steel-fiber-steel as usual, but leave ONE fiber out in the middle of the stack. Don't leave out any more steels. Make sure the tabs on the last fiber fit into the short slots on the outer basket.
If you didn't have the wave washer and seat...don't worry.

You will end up with base of basket-fiber-cushion-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-pressure plate.

Not fiber-fiber...


Good luck!
 

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Ok, I've read all this and ordered the zx plate what the hell it's cheap enough, but don't agree with steel to steel in the stack. I would avoid that. When the plate gets here I'll let everyone know what happens. Also my k11000 didn't have seat and spring at bottom of factory stack, I know it's been said that's ok but is it? Also Suzuki claims the odd looking bearing on the top hat that pushes on the pressure plate has to be good or clutch will "not release proper". My question is if not all gixxers had this problem the design must be good, but failure on one or more parts could be the cause right? If I replace bearing and add seat and spring and drill holes and make sure no plates are warped from heat adjust the push rod adjuster to 1/4 turn all should be good no need for zx plate. Also never run synthetic oil with wet clutch fibers do not soak it up and have been told causes clutch to grab and buck. But such a cheap fix I'll test it. Just seems to me the gixxer clutch looks like every other clutch I've ever worked on and the bucking has to be caused by part failure or adjustment.
 

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Blue, you may not agree with steel to steel but that's the way to do it. You have to shorten the stack. Steel to steel works great (everyone who has done this has seen this is OK).
You don't need the wave washer and seat...they're the suzuki cushion that is not good enough.
IMO don't bother with drilling the holes... this mod is so much easier and works. I run full synthetic with no problems, and I had my bark-and-grab problem with regular oil.
Of course all the other components must be good including the release bearing (the odd one you're talking about). And no, just because most don't have the issue doesn't mean the design is good. Engineers do make mistakes. They do sometimes not properly account for the variations in materials, oils, etc. Try it out before drilling the holes. It's too cheap and easy to pass up.
 

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Blue, you may not agree with steel to steel but that's the way to do it. You have to shorten the stack. Steel to steel works great (everyone who has done this has seen this is OK).
You don't need the wave washer and seat...they're the suzuki cushion that is not good enough.
IMO don't bother with drilling the holes... this mod is so much easier and works. I run full synthetic with no problems, and I had my bark-and-grab problem with regular oil.
Of course all the other components must be good including the release bearing (the odd one you're talking about). And no, just because most don't have the issue doesn't mean the design is good. Engineers do make mistakes. They do sometimes not properly account for the variations in materials, oils, etc. Try it out before drilling the holes. It's too cheap and easy to pass up.
what about removing the extra steel along with the fibers? does that make the clutch stack too short?
 

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No, don't remove an extra steel. Do what was said: discard wave washer and seat, replace the bottom steel with the cushion, and leave out one fiber in the middle. Put it all together normally and adjust properly...adjustment is very important.
Good luck!
 

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I know it's old news but I just did this mod and LOVE it. I can't believe what a difference it made on my K3. I just tossed 1 steel and 1 fiber as instructed and it was perfect. It didn't even have to adjust anything. Still bites in the same spot but with much better control.
 

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Hi All,

Looking at doing this upgrade to my K1 over the weekend. Do I or should I need a new clutch basket cover gasket?

Thanks
 

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A friend of mine has a K4, 750 gixxer and having issues with engagement of clutch ett etc, can this mod be made to his 750 bike???? or is just for 1000 bikes?
 

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Yes remove the two washers and remove #10 separator and replace it with the ZX10 one. It worked like a charm on my K3 1000.:cheers
 

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ok just ordered the zx1o cushion thing. gonna do it in the next week or so. still cold in st. louis. have a k1 with 20k miles havent been in the clutch yet but it doesnt slip. only problem is clutch grabs at last of lever travel. have even tried major adjustment. need help or mabey new clutch? think the mod will fix this problem? help
 

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Probably won't help, cushion is to fix clutch chatter. Your problem sounds more like an adjustment issue, maybe new clutch if the stack height is to short to allow proper adjustment.
 
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