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I did this mod yesterday to my K1 1000. It didn't have the wave washer at all. It seems that it was added to the k2 model. Now the clutch is much more controllable especially at low speeds and takeoffs. I had to discard one fiber plate because the stack was too thick and the clutch wouldn't disengage properly even with the cable readjusted. I was a bit worried about getting slippage because of reduced friction area but the clutch doesn't seem to be slipping now. Have those who removed one plate had any problems with clutch slipping?
 

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Hey...as I said in my previous post on this thread I had to remove a fiber too. It's been over a month and 1500 or so miles now, and absolute no issues with it! No slip, great control.
 

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"13089-0012, it is 60% stronger than the original. RRP $118.52USD"

I have this plate if any body wants to buy it from me for cheap. I run the Brock clutch cushion on mine. Send me a PM if interested.
 

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I order a new clutch for my K4 and so I tore it down and I don't have a spring washer on the inside of the hub. I only have 1 flat washer, but I have 10 fibers and 9 steels. I've got the manual and the more I read the more I get mixed up. It talks about A,B,C but I can't find C. And it says you don't have to use some of the factory plates. SO.....at the risk of sounding like an idiot do I need to order a spring washer before I put it back together, and how many plates to you need to use. The first plate I ordered was a different color than the other nine. thanks for the help - JP any thoughts?
 

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Wow, I did the ZX10 plate change mod the other day and it works? No chatter, I can do drag launches, a whole lot more engagement travel at the lever, what a difference. I left the stock plates in all but the pair I left out to fit the ZX piece in, they were fine with 24K miles on them, just the ZX plate did the trick.
 

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I also finally got this mod done, it sould be a sticky for the K4 owners. A HUGH thanks to JP1143 for the Kawi plate, he saw I had some questions with the mod and sent me his old plate for free. Thats about the coolest thing that I have seen off of a forum, just guys sharing and willing to help out. So big props to him, and good luck with the wedding. And for the clutch mod, the clutch feels so much better and smoother, I had to leave one fiber out on a new clutch, all the steels left in.
 

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Glad it worked for you Dan.

Did you put in the 05-06 fibers? If not, use those next time around.
 

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I did use the newer fibers, also a great tip for anyone needing to change their clutch. More surface area than the older ones. Same price, they are also working great.
 

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Another K3thou clutch fix convert this time from New Zealand.

The only problem I had was ordering the right part. The local kwaka dealer (Red Baron) placed the order OK however I ended up with -003 and not -0003 and there is a big difference between the two parts. A couple days later and correct part arrived.

I had only just fitted a new clutch pack (cork EBC) and new filter/oil so rather than draining the fresh oil I just leant the bike over a wee bit and rested it (fairing removed) on a cushion against wall so the oil didn't make a mess. Then popped the clutch cover off, slid the stack out, replaced the first steel and spring/ring as per your instruction. As others are doing, I decided to leave the last fibre out as my stack was too high.

Re-adjusted clutch cable (both ends) then took it out for a jolly.

Heaps more progressive and no more lurching at launch. Plus mine was making a freaky grinding/clunking noise that was putting the willys up me. All noises have now gone and I am a very happy camper.

All this gain for 10 bucks and an hour in the shed. Dude, you rock.
 

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I Have A Stm Slipper Cluch And I Have The Same Issues Discribed In This Forem Would That Mod Work With A Slipper Cluch
 

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Another K3thou clutch fix convert this time from New Zealand.

The only problem I had was ordering the right part. The local kwaka dealer (Red Baron) placed the order OK however I ended up with -003 and not -0003 and there is a big difference between the two parts. A couple days later and correct part arrived.

I had only just fitted a new clutch pack (cork EBC) and new filter/oil so rather than draining the fresh oil I just leant the bike over a wee bit and rested it (fairing removed) on a cushion against wall so the oil didn't make a mess. Then popped the clutch cover off, slid the stack out, replaced the first steel and spring/ring as per your instruction. As others are doing, I decided to leave the last fibre out as my stack was too high.

Re-adjusted clutch cable (both ends) then took it out for a jolly.

Heaps more progressive and no more lurching at launch. Plus mine was making a freaky grinding/clunking noise that was putting the willys up me. All noises have now gone and I am a very happy camper.

All this gain for 10 bucks and an hour in the shed. Dude, you rock.
Few weeks later and it's still sweet as. Slight tweak required at the top adjuster (lever) and she's good as gold. Only problem now is keeping the front wheel down so I can keep my license. For some strange reason I feel compelled to pull a huge power stand at every set of lights. God I love this machine.
 

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Has anyone had problems with the clutch grabbing on release during downshifts (I have not done this mod yet)? When I down shift and let the clutch out easy it grabs with barely any lever release sometimes... This is a discomforting situation and has caused me to have to pull the seat out of my ass a few times :)
 

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I thought the mod was for a grabby clutch while launching the bike. I wasn't sure if it helped with down shifting. Thanks. :cheers
It's for both, to prevent grabbing/sticking any time you're letting the clutch out. It should make shifting easier too, because the clutch will disengage properly, so you can shift up while just slipping the clutch a bit.
 

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ok i have an k3 and i did this Zx clutch plate but i ended up with one steel and one fiber left over and i started with a fiber and finished with a steel is this right?
 

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I havent done the mod yet but i have two k3's and a k4, my k4 and one of the k3's do this grabby bit, it just shows that not all bike were manufactured the same.
For $10 im there!!!!!!!:punk
 

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ok i have an k3 and i did this Zx clutch plate but i ended up with one steel and one fiber left over and i started with a fiber and finished with a steel is this right?
If no one else gives a first hand answer here, I'd say that it sounds right, going by what I read in previous posts, so long as your stack is close to the right height. You would have left out the first steel 'cause that's been replaced with the ZX one, and according to jimguyer's experience, you may not be able to fit the last fibre in, I'm guessing that's if you use a new or near new set.
I just installed this new clutch cushion where the 1st steel was originally (towards the inside of the engine) and discarded the original suzuki wave washer & seat. so it went:
FIBRE, NEW STEEL(13089),FIBRE,STEEL,FIBRE,STEEL ETC,
Keep an eye on the clutch stack height too. Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)
The new judder plate measures 3.8mm thick fully compressed, the factory steels are 2.3mm so the plate will give a bit more in the stack height.
My clutch is a bit worn I ended up with 48.6mm total with the new zx10 steel in there.
Also, I had to remove one fiber from the stack...it was too tall with the kawasaki clutch cushion. Anyway, after reassembly and 20 minutes of wear-in...it's fabulous. No judder, stalls, barks. Nice easily countrolled launching, lever effort like I liked.
+1 on this mod for me.
 
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