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If I wanted to retain all the of the fibers would it be a case of swapping out all of the remaining 8 standard 2.3mm steels for the thinner 2mm ones
 

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If I wanted to retain all the of the fibers would it be a case of swapping out all of the remaining 8 standard 2.3mm steels for the thinner 2mm ones
You can try that, as well as sourcing the thinner fibers to keep your stack height within spec.

If you have our clutch cushion kit, we compensated for the lack of one fiber plate, as well as the addition of additional spring pressure behind your clutch (which has the effect of removing overall static spring pressure) with the heavy duty springs supplied in our kit. This allows you to remove one fiber plate, and simply service the clutch like normal. The lever pressure is severe, but it's not uncontrollable. If a customer complains that their lever is crazy stiff, we suggest they replace their clutch cable - it makes all the difference in the world.

Brock
 

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Spot on.
The 2mm steels are the go.

Also:
-the annoyingly loud rattling from the clutch when idling in neutral is now gone. Strange that such lightweight parts were causing all that noise. Could not get rid of the noise no matter how well I balanced the throttle bodies. It started doing this around the 40,000km mark.
-clutch does not drag now when in gear at the lights. Neutral is easy to select again.

Clutch engagement starts to happen quickly....no excessive dead spot when releasing the clutch. No clutch protest and no clutch lurching.

A great permanent fix that just plain works.
 

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Stack height measured out at 49.00mm. I would not go much further than this as clutch may not disengage completely given the std lever/actuator ratio.
Although on the high side, the clutch works well after the lever adjustment at the bar is made......clutch take up is sooner off the bar though than std due to the stack height.
You could consider it towards the upper limit of stack height.

Still better than the way it was.
 

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Stack height measured out at 49.00mm. I would not go much further than this as clutch may not disengage completely given the std lever/actuator ratio.
Although on the high side, the clutch works well after the lever adjustment at the bar is made......clutch take up is sooner off the bar though than std due to the stack height.
You could consider it towards the upper limit of stack height.

Still better than the way it was.
Do you realize this thread is 5 years old????
 

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Yes, but my bike had this same issue and the advice here was great in solving it.
A great resource this site provides.
I am sure there will be someone in the future where the same model will need the same fix.
 

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Correct! Refer to the K5-6 1000 section. Look at the clutch mods thread. Great reading. FIW just throw out your OEM K4 clutch and install a complete K7-8 slipper clutch assembly. Enjoy all the benefits of a more modern clutch.
That's what I did. Best thing I ever did to the bike.
 
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