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Discussion Starter #1
For all the K1-K4 owners I have now found the cheap clutch fix.
Normally with high rpm drag style launches the clutch judders and usually engages to early and doesnt allow the rider to slip the clutch all the way to the end of the clutch lever travel.

Grab one of these from your local Kawasaki dealer.

13089-0003
plate - clutch
(from a 2004 ZX10R)



It cost me $17.30 AUD, (ronayers.com has them for $7.47US)
http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?searchstring=13089-0003

I just installed this new clutch cushion where the 1st steel was originally (towards the inside of the engine) and discarded the original suzuki wave washer & seat. so it went:
FIBRE, NEW STEEL(13089),FIBRE,STEEL,FIBRE,STEEL ETC,

My clutch works great now. Last night I did a couple of 1.69sec 60ft times, I need some more practice but before I could do any better than 1.73

The clutch now performs 100%. I recommend this mod to anyone considering buying a Brock Davidson Clutch Cushion and this is much cheaper and probably does the same job!

Keep an eye on the clutch stack height too. Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)
The new judder plate measures 3.8mm thick fully compressed, the factory steels are 2.3mm so the plate will give a bit more in the stack height.
My clutch is a bit worn I ended up with 48.6mm total with the new zx10 steel in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have put some labels on this diagram so its a bit clearer where this plate goes.

REMOVE 11 & 12
SWAP THE 1ST (TOWARDS ENGINE) STEEL WITH THE NEW ZX10R STEEL
The zx10 steel does not hard a hard edge & a rounded edge like the gsxr steels, it is smooth on both sides and can be installed anyway you like.
Its identical on both sides.

Also I know this has been covered a million times before but its important. After the clutch is all back together, readjust the cable. loosen off all the adjusters all the way and start from scratch.
The k1 & k2 manual says back out the screw 1/4 turn & the k3-k4-k5-k6 manual says 1/2 turn. I prefer 1/4 turn.


I found these pictures somewhere else on the internet. (These aren't my hands & noticed it is a kawasaki not a suzuki)
This is just so y'all have a better idea what it looks like.



If you want to spend the money kawasaki also has an option:
13089-0011, it is 40% stronger than the original. RRP $118.52USD
13089-0012, it is 60% stronger than the original. RRP $118.52USD

I think this should be made a sticky if it seems to work for some others.
 

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I am going to give this a try.
 

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I had the same problem at strip.

Nice fix.
What I did for my 1000k3 was replaced the clutch operating mechanism (part 21 in your pic) with one from 1000k5.
It comes together with the small side cover.

Later model has a machined cam with better ramp for engaging lenght while orignal has a pressed sheet metal mechanism.

Now the clutch can be slipped the full travel lenght at high rpm.
 

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luke111 said:
I have put some labels on this diagram so its a bit clearer where this plate goes.

REMOVE 11 & 12
SWAP THE 1ST (TOWARDS ENGINE) STEEL WITH THE NEW ZX10R STEEL
The zx10 steel does not hard a hard edge & a rounded edge like the gsxr steels, it is smooth on both sides and can be installed anyway you like.
Its identical on both sides.

Also I know this has been covered a million times before but its important. After the clutch is all back together, readjust the cable. loosen off all the adjusters all the way and start from scratch.
The k1 & k2 manual says back out the screw 1/4 turn & the k3-k4-k5-k6 manual says 1/2 turn. I prefer 1/4 turn.


I found these pictures somewhere else on the internet. (These aren't my hands & noticed it is a kawasaki not a suzuki)
This is just so y'all have a better idea what it looks like.



If you want to spend the money kawasaki also has an option:
13089-0011, it is 40% stronger than the original. RRP $118.52USD
13089-0012, it is 60% stronger than the original. RRP $118.52USD

I think this should be made a sticky if it seems to work for some others.
Hey Luke, whats the difference in the two stronger Kawa steels that you posted compared to the cheaper previous one? Are they thicker? Heavier?
 

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I havn't tried it in a stock clutch 1000, but tried it in a turbo 1000 with a mtc multi stage lockup last year.
Didn't make much difference with the lockup and didn't like it. Can't really say what it would do in a stock clutch bike, but have never had problems with the stock 01-04 gsxr 1000 clutch.
 

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I will be def giving this a go, just gotta work out if I should do it myself or get a mechanic to do it for me?? How hard is it to take the clutch out and apart, do you need any special tools??

Cheers

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
you don't need any special tools.
just an 8mm socket for the clutch cover bolts & a 5mm allen key to undo the bolts holding the clutch springs in, thats it pretty much.

just remember how you pulled it apart and take not what order things were removed, you'll be fine.
 

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"Keep an eye on the clutch stack height too. Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)"

Does the factory spec clutch stack height include the two washers?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"Keep an eye on the clutch stack height too. Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)"

Does the factory spec clutch stack height include the two washers?
Im not sure what you mean. You would discard the original washer/seat.
If you mean including the new zx10 steel plate in the stack height then yes you would include it but consider that the zx10 steel needs to be compressed as it would be when installed in the pack.

The stack height doesnt have to be exact. The bike doesn't know where it is :)
chances are after a few launches the plates will all wear and it will change anyway.
i wouldnt go any less than the minimum though, its better to have more.
what measurements do you have now?
 

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It's the third day with my bike fitted with zx10 steel plate and no problems at all!
The only problem is that the clutch level got really hard and I now use all 4 fingers, but the feel is great!
I also drilled the extra 3 holes at the inner basket for better lubrication.

MANY thanks for all the tips luke111

:cheers:cheers
 

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I know this thread is old but I just tried it on my newly purchased 04 gsxr1000 and it works great. Before my bike would often stall using a little too much revs along with a loud bark. For less than $20 I don't know why the old owners never did it before.

Has anyone come across any problems with this mod?
 

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I'm going to give this mod a try...I've got a 1k4 that bucks and almost stalls like quan123. First though I'm going to clean up any gouges and nicks in my clutch basket.
 

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I did this mod on my bike last night. (my judder had gotten worse with the barnett clutch I installed) At the same time I filed some slightly rough dings off the hub and basket, went back to the stock springs, and went back to non-synthetic oil.
Also, I had to remove one fiber from the stack...it was too tall with the kawasaki clutch cushion. Anyway, after reassembly and 20 minutes of wear-in...it's fabulous. No judder, stalls, barks. Nice easily countrolled launching, lever effort like I liked.
+1 on this mod for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
cool.
it will be interesting to see how it goes in the long term.
my clutch is still performing great but I have since added barnett clutch springs.
keep us updated jimguyer
im still cutting consistant 1.68-1.70 60 ft times stock wheelbase & a few 9.7 passes with this setup stock wheelbase, stock gearing.
 
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