K1 1000 turbo upgrade from stg 1 to stg3?

2432 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by k1turbo, Jun 20, 2017

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · Sep 28, 2016

Hi

I am New in the forum, but I have found much valuable information here for my projekt, so I decided to sign up to get more out of the forum :smile:

I bought a gsx1000r k1 some years ago, the bike was turbocharged (8-9psi) Stock pistons, but thicker head gasket. It run fine about 15k miles, than i spun 1 rod

So I started rebuild the engine, and upgraded With

-Wiseco 9,8:1 pistons
-H-Beam High Performance Conrods
-Lightened crankshafts with oil holes modified to provide more oil to the bearing

I've droven With the same map and boost-pressure as before, but I'm soon finish break-in. (I'm around 700miles of 1000miles) :lol
The bike is running really Nice, BUT maybe some less hp on midrange :surprise: (and have not tried it over 9000 rpm yet)
Could that be because the lower compression at the same setup/map?

When I'm finished With break-in, I will bench and map it. plan was to do 17-19psi then (But i was thinking of a stg2 boostcontroller, so I can switch between 7psi and 19psi)

Do this need 2 diffrent maps?

I will try to post updates of the Project :smile:

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

oldgixxer

· #2 · Sep 28, 2016

Did you put heavy duty case and cyl studs when you rebuilt the engine? What brand rods did you go with? Any other supporting mods needed to handle 17-19psi??

I wouldn't recommend pushing too much boost until you get the bike on a dyno with a sniffer so you can verify that the AFR& tune are still good.

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 28, 2016 (Edited)

tnx for respons

No, I dont have Heavy duty case, either syl studs. (syl studs can I still get, if I need it?) But I wont rip the engine apart again for the case

I got the H-beam rods from max speeding rods.

No, I were not planned to push more boost before I've dyno it

oldgixxer

· #4 · Sep 28, 2016

Do some more research on those cheap Chinese eBay rods. They are knock-off's of Carrillo's. Topic has been active on psychobike.com

If you're gonna be pushing 17-19psi then you really should get the best parts money can buy for your turbo engine. On 9.5:1 CR,with C16 I make [email protected] With 20psi Im confident I'd make at least 375rwhp. Cheap parts aint gonna cut it,trust me

Anthony D

· #5 · Sep 29, 2016

k1turbo said:
tnx for respons

No, I dont have Heavy duty case, either syl studs. (syl studs can I still get, if I need it?) But I wont rip the engine apart again for the case

I got the H-beam rods from max speeding rods.

No, I were not planned to push more boost before I've dyno it

:facepalm

I see split cases in your future.

Reactions: 2

oldgixxer

· #6 · Sep 29, 2016

Anthony D said:
:facepalm

I see split cases in your future.

It's strictly my personal opinion,but why would someone go through all the trouble of planning a turbo build only to start the foundation with Chinese knock-off con rods to save $400-500.
Those rods have had their journals measured and are out of round from the factory,they need to have a few hundred dollars worth of machining to get them to fit,and then the small end shits the bed soon after.
Any turbo build using cheap ass rods is an instant recipe for an expensive catastrophic failure:thumbup

Reactions: 1

Anthony D

· #7 · Sep 29, 2016

Exactly.

I remember when they first came out, a few turbo car guys bought them, and promptly grenaded their new motors.

Turbo + cheap, budget build = Catastrophic engine failure.

Reactions: 2

HeJason

· #8 · Sep 29, 2016

Remember the three rules to building an engine (any engine) They can be built 1)cheap 2)reliable 3)powerful. You can only choose 2 in any order. You can build an engine cheap and powerful, but it wont be reliable, and you can build an engine reliable and cheap but it wont be powerful. Lastly, you can build an engine reliable, and powerful, but it wont be cheap. I think that is what we are trying to say. Keep us posted :cheers

Reactions: 1

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 29, 2016

oldgixxer said:
Do some more research on those cheap Chinese eBay rods. They are knock-off's of Carrillo's. Topic has been active on psychobike.com

If you're gonna be pushing 17-19psi then you really should get the best parts money can buy for your turbo engine. On 9.5:1 CR,with C16 I make [email protected] With 20psi Im confident I'd make at least 375rwhp. Cheap parts aint gonna cut it,trust me

Damn, I did some deep Research about that conrods, looks like they're piece of crap

I will order the Carillo rods from APE. Won't take the risk With the max speeding-rods.
But I think it will be a Project for the Winter

Reactions: 1

oldgixxer

· #10 · Sep 29, 2016

Good :cheers

le skid

· #11 · Sep 29, 2016

I'm assuming this shouldn't prevent OP from riding the bike normally? Just don't push it so the cheap conrods don't blow-apart?

Beairsto Racing

· #12 · Sep 29, 2016

This has been about false economy from the beginning...skipping the studs, cheap rods, what else?
It's a grenade. Why risk destroying everything?..it won't end well.
Chalk it up as a learning experience and build a better one.

Reactions: 1

oldgixxer

· #13 · Sep 30, 2016

Beairsto Racing said:
This has been about false economy from the beginning...skipping the studs, cheap rods, what else?
It's a grenade..

Scott that literally made me LOL :lol

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · #14 · Oct 1, 2016 (Edited)

Beairsto Racing said:
This has been about false economy from the beginning...skipping the studs, cheap rods, what else?
It's a grenade. Why risk destroying everything?..it won't end well.
Chalk it up as a learning experience and build a better one.

I see your point. It's not like i have'nt used any money on the bike. Paid almost same price for the new oem bolts as the syl-studs (just didnt think of them at the point). I got the crankshaft machined from APE, sylinder re-nicasiled from APE, barnett clutch, fuel-pump, plenum (and yes, it is strapped), turbo, power commander, intercooler etc all from mc-xpress sweden, I got my cams and sylinder-head inspected by sylinder-service, iridium-sparkplugs etc.. so its not just crap, but I see that I need some more to do, and thats why i signed up here to get some tips for not making "a granade" engine

The rods was a bic failiure, but the rods will go in the garbage..

I see that I aimed a bit high when I said 17-19psi, but I hope I can build the engine to hold maybe at 13-15 psi tho. Should not be impossible when the very stock motor was running 24 000 km at 0,6 bar (8-9psi I think)

First thing i will do is to order carillo-rods syl-studs from APE

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Beairsto Racing

· #15 · Oct 1, 2016

Just curious...I imagine shipping costs quickly eat into your budget. Have you had any luck dealing with Big CC?

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · #16 · Oct 1, 2016

Beairsto Racing said:
Just curious...I imagine shipping costs quickly eat into your budget. Have you had any luck dealing with Big CC?

Yes, it does ? I live i Norway, but it is usually cheaper for me to order OEM-parts (or any parts with a value over 100$) from UK or US no matter if I need to pay shipping and 25% tax.. it's no competition at all on MC-parts nationally here.

And therefore very few turbo-bikes here.

"Have you had any luck dealing with Big CC?"
Sorry, I did not fully understand your question.?

Beairsto Racing

· #17 · Oct 1, 2016

Home - Big CC Race Shop

1968sowle

· #18 · Nov 17, 2016

I'm going to stage 3 and It Frankienstien I'm still working on it but main thing didn't cheap out on motor.It 04 1000 Gsxr with 01 block 06 heads ported with all upgrades 08 cam with 08 wire harness it already been dyno with another turbo bike gt28 327hp with his.I have 8 injectors billets fuel rails modify basically TTOD stock 50a/r this has 63a/r ported polish blueprinted bigger shaft impellers had put double bearing t3 still lot work to do and parts get up.I built stage one put in old motor run strong for a while now dyno guys gone here and don't want stock motor selling stage1 so I had friend that's knows how to build motor to handle power motor built just trying get all other stuff together when I went with 08 harness few things have to change get I had to get different headers that goes with pentinum better than what I had just put turbo on opposite side.Thank you Busa for getting back on it been long time since been on forum.

k1turbo

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jun 20, 2017

Bike is soon finished. Yesterday I had a run in the dynoroom, we could`nt map it since the PC was to old

But new PC is coming one of the first day, and than we will blow up the boost and map it.

Question: wich is the best way to adjust the boost. (lying on 10psi now, will go up to 15psi), is it safe to use a manual boost controller? or do i need a digital boost controller? or may i adjust it on the wastegate?

In the dyno it make 243rwhp at 10psi without mapping, it got plenty of fuel

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

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