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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I took your guys advice and bought the K&N Stage 3.(Spent the last of my bike savings). I just just installed a V&H SSR2 Full exhaust. Installing went very smoothley(Alot better than the Duplex)And it looks great.(I would love to post pics But I dont know how to get them up). When I receive the jet kit the Slide Orfices(what ever that does) So I waiting for the to send to me. So in the mean time does anyone have a stage 3 set up on an 1100 that can tellme what size jets and needle high to go with. I Hope My project will go as smoothley as FastCat his is AWESOME. Almost forgot The Top of my exhaust is hitting the bottom of my motor is that OK Thanks
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#6A7FB8" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#2f2f4f">Originally posted by Dontilgon:
Well I took your guys advice and bought the K&N Stage 3.(Spent the last of my bike savings). I just just installed a V&H SSR2 Full exhaust. Installing went very smoothley(Alot better than the Duplex)And it looks great.(I would love to post pics But I dont know how to get them up). When I receive the jet kit the Slide Orfices(what ever that does) So I waiting for the to send to me. So in the mean time does anyone have a stage 3 set up on an 1100 that can tellme what size jets and needle high to go with. I Hope My project will go as smoothley as FastCat his is AWESOME. Almost forgot The Top of my exhaust is hitting the bottom of my motor is that OK Thanks</td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>Well, thanks Don... but it's *her* bike...
as for the exhaust contact, it depends on how bad it is... if it rubs while you're riding, it will eventually chafe a hole in something... either the pipe or the oilpan... neither being a very pleasant experience. My Hindle was *very close* down there, but I got creative with the way I twisted all the pipes in the spigots and stuff and got about 1/8" of clearance... play with it a little and see if you can get at least a *little* bit of space in there... you *don't* want contact or it will eventually rub through.

I know that the Dynojet kit is a little different from the Factory Pro kit... but on the Factory Pro kit, the instructions said to just use any 5-minute epoxy to close off one of the vacuum slide holes.

here's a pic of me molesting some obscure motorcycle part...


...and another of me down at the Tacoma Waterfront:
 

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Dontilgon: What are you going to do with that Duplex? I would love to discuss purching it from you. Send me a PM or E-mail.
Bones
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finished putting the carbs together. In the morning I'll slap them on. What did you do about the fuel bowl vent tubes. Someone told me just turn them down with no tubes. If I dont like the way she runs Iam gonna get the same jet kit as you since already did the fine peaking.



[ 04-05-2002, 07:30 PM: Message edited by: Dontilgon ]
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#6A7FB8" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#2f2f4f">Originally posted by Dontilgon:
Finished putting the carbs together. In the morning I'll slap them on. What did you do about the fuel bowl vent tubes. Someone told me just turn them down with no tubes. If I dont like the way she runs Iam gonna get the same jet kit as you since already did the fine peaking.

</td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>As for the vent tubes, I put some 5/16" tubing on them because I read somewhere that it helps... why exactly I dunno... but then when I had to take the tank off th play around with the needles, I took `em off and forgot to put `em back in there (they're sitting in a drawer now) so yeah, just leave `em... turning `em down is prolly a good idea so no bug carcasses or other gack finds it's way down in there. Just be patient with setting it up, there's plenty of people who use the K&N kit with no problems... a useful hint is to replace the float bowl and vacuum slide-cover fasteners with allen-heads so you can change main jets and move the needle clips without having to remove the carbs. Make *certain* and set your float-bowl level BEFORE you get the carbs back in the bike... you cannot do that while they're mounted. One last thing is to have some stay-straps on hand for the clutch hydraulic line... mine interfered with the filters and I had to re-route it out of the way. For the crankcase breather filter, I just popped that into the existing tube that used to go to the airbox and let it hang down in front of the shock (the hose is routed on top of the air filters and is long enough as-is). Let us know how it goes!

Sharp-looking bike BTW!

[ 04-05-2002, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: FastCat ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That pic was when I bought it. All is installed ran it and so far so good. I didnt have time realy to feel it out through all gears. But also it cold out today and tires have no traction , I have brand new tires and all she does is spin in 1st. No poping or bogging at full throttle at idle but tomorrow is trial run. I'LL let you know how it goes. Also the exhaust fixed itself There now a little less than 1/8 clearance on the bottom. Dou have a little bit of smoke out of the little filter? and were did you route your clutch cable . Got a pic. Also I'LL pic tommorrow with the filter and exhaust
 

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Hi Don,

Yup, 88/750 is right about the crankcase breather filter... it normally would vent into the airbox, it has always smoked when the engine is hot, we just never see it til we get rid of the airbox. It will smoke a fair amount in hot summer days in stop-n-go traffic... make sure it is in a place where a little oil vapor won't do any harm.

The clutch line I just routed on the outside of the frame rail instead of inside like it was, and I used stay-straps to hold it in place (I'll get some pics when it stops raining). There was another pic of an `89 1100 in one of the other threads here, he had his clutch line just hanging next to the carbs... it doesn't really matter how you route it as long as you don't get it tangled in anything.

You do any dyno pulls, or are you using the seat-of-the-pants method to tune your carbs? In any case, if you have no flat spots and the idle is smooth, congratulations! pics! pics! pics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Didn't take her out today for a run. It was even colder than yesterday but mon or tue we should she 50-60 That should make my test run aliitle better. By the way did you have to thread and screw in a plastic piece in your plastic slide holes. I had to and did both of them. But now iAm reading that you should only do 1 hole on the slide for better street riding. And as far as a DYno.... I WISH. I dont know any reliable shops here in the bronx with a dyno. I dont know muchabout dyno but are you saying carbs could be fully tuned useing a dyno?
 

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Originally posted by Dontilgon:
Didn't take her out today for a run. It was even colder than yesterday but mon or tue we should she 50-60 That should make my test run aliitle better. By the way did you have to thread and screw in a plastic piece in your plastic slide holes. I had to and did both of them. But now iAm reading that you should only do 1 hole on the slide for better street riding. And as far as a DYno.... I WISH. I dont know any reliable shops here in the bronx with a dyno. I dont know muchabout dyno but are you saying carbs could be fully tuned useing a dyno?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">For the slide holes... the kit I used said to use epoxy, and didn't require any drilling or tapping. I just restricted one hole in each slide and it seems to be working well like that; I didn't try restricting both, but I understand that some people do. That just changes the way the slide reacts to vacuum changes ... I trusted Factory Pro instructions and it works.

As for the Dyno, that's really the only way to KNOW what kinds of changes you're getting... if you install a jet kit and put a big dip in your mid-range, it could just feel like a big top-end rush... which is really just the same old top-end you had before... I dunno what a shop would charge to do the tuning, I bought dyno time from a local shop and did the tuning myself... again, the instructions that came with the factory pro kit were well-written and easy to understand... it had a tuning guide in there and what can I say? It works. The shop guy just ran the dyno for me. I used the dyno because there isn't anywhere near my house where I can do a 3rd gear WOT throttle-chop to read the plugs without getting arrested. If you have lots of empty roads around you, you can probably get it sorted pretty well without the dyno, but it's difficult to tell *exactly* what's going on without it. One of the big reasons I wanted to buy the dyno time was so I could play around with the ignition advance, it just so happens that I had just installed the jet kit and could do that at the same time. I'm lucky that there's a good shop close to my house, they like me there, and they didn't charge me an arm and a leg to let me tie up their dyno for the better part of an afternoon. (I waited til they had a slow day with nobody else wanting dyno time) If you follow the instructions that came with the kit, and you get a smooth idle, good throttle response, and not too much popping on decel (none on accel) then you're probably pretty close to the optimum setup.
 

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spiining in 1st....sounds like fun.
I hope that you've 'ditched' that horrible tank bra thing !!
Sounds good though and I hope you get decent weather soon.

Andy
 
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