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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey man do you think you can help me set up my bike? Never done it before and would like to learn a little about this. Let me know

That is all,
QG

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Hey quick,
sure thing....but first,you will need to collect the following items Grasshopper:
2) 10"in. long zip ties
1) open end wrench to adj front preload
1) small flat head screwdriver...pref w/ a short shaft/handle
1) measuring tape
1)spanner wrench(and/or Hammer and punch,as long as you dont mind marring the adj plate for the rear)....this is an item avail at the dealer,Id bring mine if I hadnt already lent it out...
...all thats left is you and your gear. post when yer ready.....otherwise,read the "101" post,and let me know whatcha got questions on....

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"I love valentines day...if my wife comes out and sees her shadow,6 more weeks on the restraing order..."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool itslame, I'll pick up the spaner wrench but it will be acouple of weeks cause I'm studing for a big test on the 28th. I also when down the Cycle Sport today and picked up that nice lockhart rear wheel stand. It's nice to have. Thanks for the info and I'll let you know when I'm ready to set her up. I also told GSXRON you sent me down there. They were gald to hear your name cause they laughed and said cool when I said you sent me.


That is all,
QG

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Hey everybody,
If you havent already done it,setting up your suspension is one of the most important yet simple things you could do....grab a friend(or two,three,four....hell,make it a learning experience)and prepare to have some fun(?).

STEP 1
place zip ties on the forks(this isnt essential,but it helps). This will give you a visual que as to how far the front sags,and later will help determine how far the front is diving(comp damp)

STEP 2
WITHOUT RIDER AND GEAR!....unload the suspension of the bike. This is accomplished by lifting on the clip ons,and the tail(grab a structural support,not the exhaust or body work!)...then carefully set it back on the side stand. Push the zip ties up until they are firm against the dust seals. use the measure tape and...from a fixed point on the swing arm(I use the very top of the axle's crown nut)....measure to a set point on the tail piece(I use the bungee hook...incidently,I measure the left side...as the exhaust creates some direct line problems). Record the measurement for the rear....dont worry about the front just yet...

STEP 3
the rider(with gear)carefully mounts,making sure not to disturb the bike too much(DONT SIT DOWN JUST YET!). this is where having a friend helps....carefully straighten the bike,have your friend spot you while you "settle in"...if there is more than 2 of you,one supports....you sit.....the third person measures the rears sag. BUT,this scenario is for 2 people....so....
while you sit(try not to "lift" your weight...relax,your weight will need to compress the springs)while the sec person quickly takes a measurement.

STEP 4
Now,CAREFULLY return the bike to the sidestand,and dismount...your not done yet,so try not to move about too much. Once off the bike,the two of you each grab a clip on and unload the front once more. carefully set it down,and measure the distance the ties have moved down from the dust seals.

the goal here is to discover the sag measurement of the front and rear. By finding out how much the suspension sagged,you will be able to adj(+/- preload)the increments till you have the correct amount.

STEP 5
dialing in the preload is the easiest/hardest thing. the front is a simple twist of the adj(in equal turns per tube)nut located at the uppermost part of the forks. the rear can be a nightmare(ask anyone who smashed their knuckles). there are 2 lock plates that adj the rear preload. a spanner wrench is used to turn the plates(or a hammer struck on a punch,to force the plates to twist).each plate is adj seperately.

The sag goal is roughly 30mm or 1"in.
every time preload is adj,you'll have to re-measure the sag. (*Im not going to dwelve too deep on preload sag...if your tuning for advanced riding,you should have already found the "right" street settings-and have an idea of what your needing )

STEP 6
Ok....now the fun stuff(sarcasm...gotta luv it)dampening......remember I said to bring a small,stubby flat head screwdriver? Well, if your trying to adj the rear dampening with a 6"in long driver,good luck....it wont fit in those cramped spaces....
Anyway.....push the ties up again. Take the bike for a ride and Pay attention to HOW your suspension unsettles. Pick a route w/ a variety of turns,stops....and surface textures. If it dives real quick(while braking,over bumps....or wallowing in turns)stiffen the comp dampening. This is the screw adj at the top of the fork. not sure how far its "diving"? thats what the ties come in useful for....
The rebound damp(located on the lower fork tube-facing back) is how quickly it returns to the original position. ....go through and adj accordingly. Again....as stated before(many,many times before)adj of dampeners are preferencial....dont ever let anyone lead you to believe you need to adj one way-thats it. because of this...I'll leave this for you to determine what works.
the rear is similar,with comp being located above the rebound(as to where its located in terms of the shock....thats determined by the shock make,model)
This is the long part....sometimes extending over the course of several days(rides are only so long.....)so dont get frustrated.

STEP?
Ok...Im tired...you get the idea....and you should have a "basic" idea of how it works...good luck....



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"I love valentines day...if my wife comes out and sees her shadow,6 more weeks on the restraing order..."
 

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Hey itslame, how long did it take u to write all that? Well i'm impressed. Maybe you can help me out here, seems like you have a very board knowlege on suspenions settings. How different can a suspenion setting differ from on rider to the other given the fact that their riding styles are different. I'm talking more geared for the track.

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Adj should be made in two click intervals(singles are hard to differ from)and keep the screwdriver handy....once you determine the street setting that feels comfortable,write it down(I suggest writing it neatly on a sticker,placed out of view but accessible for reference). The damp rates are "usually" the only settings that need to be changed for racing conditions. test the bike with your "street settings"and adj its short commings....then mark them down on your sticker(have a few stickers avail....this number will keep changing)this way,you can change settings accordingly. "street" riding can be comprimised by riding your suspension too stiff. public roads are far from upkept,running over a bumpy segment too quick may cause the wheel to "float" as the wheel cannot conform to the surface. Ride what feels right...the settings could always be changed to suite the needs,cause there isnt a universal setting....
..ooh,I forgot....the difference is as varied as how people order their steak....track riders generally aim toward the firmer side...but they also generally replace the majority of their components w/ aftermarket pieces....which places a huge variance in the settings...
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"I can't be held accountable for what I say....I say alot of things"


[This message has been edited by itslame (edited 02-20-2001).]
 
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