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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All these posts on brakes, people claiming they've fixxed it...yada yada...

I have used Vesrah and Ferodo pads.
I have used 3 diff fluids, now running Motul 6.
I have Goodridge lines.
Still brake fade after 4-5 hot laps.

Fast Am on gsxr750 Mike Smith tells me punching the stock pins loose (i.e. Tamborines) will fix the problem because the hubs on our front wheels are not perfectly parrallel, thus building heat in the system every time the wheel goes around. So I tried it with a set of rotors. It seemed to have helped a little, but I'm still getting it!
Then I hear once those rotors/pins get hot enough, even though they are loose, they will expand and lock themselves anyway, possibly making your brakes even MORE dangerous.

double you Tee Eff!?
What is the fix?



PS. Anyone want to buy an 04 gxsr 600 with 800 miles?
 

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I'm having a brake fade problem also. The problem is I'm boiling the brake fluid. If the bike sits for a while the brakes are fine, but after a few laps they begin to fade. I bought a Brembo master thinking it will help but it hasn't. I use wave rotors and thought maybe the rotors are coned, but I have the same issue with the stock rotors. I'm now trying a different set of calipers thinking maybe only one side of the pistons are working causing the calipers to get hot and boil the brake fluid.
 

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Did you bed the pads in properly? Are your rotors glazed? Are your rotors warped (even slightly) which would cause overheating? Have you bled the system correctly?

You have a nice setup so I am leaning either towards faulty or damaged components, or user error.
 

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a) some brake fade is going to occur no matter what... that's just the nature of the game. I don't know if the brake fade you're experiencing is normal, or due to an actual problem.

b) if your calipers aren't working properly (sticking pistons, bad seals, what have you) then the constant friction would allow for excessive heat build-up.

c) alot of the really hi-performance fluids have exceptional dry boiling points, but not-so-exceptional wet boiling points. most of them are also HIGHLY hydroscopic. so if you're not absolutely sure the system is fully bled, and/or if you ever use fluid that's been exposed to the air for any significant amount of time, and/or if you don't change your fluid every race weekend, it can cause probs. when I compare fluids - the wet boiling point means more to me than the dry (within reason).

d) warped rotors could also be the culprit... anything that keeps the pads in contact with the rotors other than when actually braking.

do you have brake-drag issues?
 

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One thing you might want to try is seeing how the pistons move in and out on the caliper. The inside pistons on mine I could barley push back, but the outside pistons moved fine thus why I changing them. Also make sure the rotors are centered in the caliper.
 

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b) if your calipers aren't working properly (sticking pistons, bad seals, what have you) then the constant friction would allow for excessive heat build-up.


d) warped rotors could also be the culprit... anything that keeps the pads in contact with the rotors other than when actually braking.

do you have brake-drag issues?
This was my intial thought....
 

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One thing you might want to try is seeing how the pistons move in and out on the caliper. The inside pistons on mine I could barley push back, but the outside pistons moved fine thus why I changing them. Also make sure the rotors are centered in the caliper.
have you put NEW pads in ??

once the pads are down to half., they are toast if you are fast.... the thicker pad helps disapate the heat...


i notice a BIG difference every time i put new pads in ,. they go off so slow you never notice then all the sudden., WOW
 

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One thing you might want to try is seeing how the pistons move in and out on the caliper. The inside pistons on mine I could barley push back, but the outside pistons moved fine thus why I changing them. Also make sure the rotors are centered in the caliper.
have you put NEW pads in ??

once the pads are down to half., they are toast if you are fast.... the thicker pad helps disapate the heat...


i notice a BIG difference every time i put new pads in ,. they go off so slow you never notice then all the sudden., WOW
My pads have only like 3 weekends on them. Performance friction said you can run their pads all the way down?
 

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One thing you might want to try is seeing how the pistons move in and out on the caliper. The inside pistons on mine I could barley push back, but the outside pistons moved fine thus why I changing them. Also make sure the rotors are centered in the caliper.
have you put NEW pads in ??
once the pads are down to half., they are toast if you are fast.... the thicker pad helps disapate the heat...i notice a BIG difference every time i put new pads in ,. they go off so slow you never notice then all the sudden., WOW
My pads have only like 3 weekends on them. Performance friction said you can run their pads all the way down?

THEY ARE SO full of shit.,. after 3 weekends i have to change my pads when i ran PF., and you are faster than me..... dumb ass.....

try a new set., worst case save these for spare., you will feel a difference...
 

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whiskey tango foxtrot with these bikes and brake fade?

I never get it on my TZ, even a 16 or 18 lap USGPRU race. I used to get it bad on mygsxr750 racebike with EBC rotors and HH pads, SS lines and all that, in a solo race.
 

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As dumb as this sounds, try the stock pads again. They seemed to work better for me. I had Vesrah, and got the fading issue. Last Monday I switched back at the lunchbreak, but only got one session after lunch, but it seemed to be better. just something to try out at a trackday.

I'm very discourage to hear that both a Brembo MC and wave rotors didn't fix the issue. That's a real problem.
 

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Damn boys, I figured this out years ago and I NEVER have any brake fade problems.
I go so slow that I don't need to use the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The reason the stock ones "worked" is because they were new (I assume). Whazizname is right. When you put NEW pads in, it is not AS bad, but it gets bad quick. I have changed pads every weekend so far. And I've had bad fade (again, on the 4-5th hot lap and on) every weekend. I have gone over everything to make sure it's working. The calipers/pistons seem fine. The MC is fine. The rotors are not warped. Yes, it's even bled correctly... The fluid is for SURE getting hot. But I don't understand how, and likewise how to fix it. The theory of the hubs on the wheel not being | | seems to be the only thing that makes sense...but then why when I fixed (destroyed) by rotor pins by essentially making them full floaters, it still didn't go away completely???

Apparently this has been a huge issue, and there were some long discussins on the wera board about it (I haven't seen any but I've heard they exsist). And no one seems to have the secret... I even talked to Junge about it, and of course (I guess) they aren't having this issue, but they don't use the po-boy stuff I use either.

WTB...R6 again...
 

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change your master cyl.

lp sells one off a ducati that works great for like 75 bucks. put it on my 750 was aworld of diff

now a real bling bling brembo is the shit.


and make sure you fluid is not full in the resevour so it has room to expand and/or boil
 

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Nope they weren't new. They had a few TD's on them. Then again, I don't go at your warp speeds either and I more than likely don't brake like you either.
 

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I have changed pads every weekend so far. And I've had bad fade (again, on the 4-5th hot lap and on) every weekend.
shit - send me your old ones... I'll deal with the fade!



if you're going through pads that fast, something is DEFINITELY wrong.
Ditto again......................Pads should last at least two weekends....and that is running 6-8 races a weekend....
 

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What the hell do the supersport guys do? That's 18 laps on stock calipers, stock MC and stock wheels, no?
 
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