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Ok thanks for the advice and weighing the tire I really appreciate it. Man the power one is expensive how much did you pay for yours? I might try 15/44 just to have a few more mph in first.Would going to a 520 setup be dangerous?I noticed as long as I had it strapped down, and I kept my weight forward on the bars and tank, I can pin it just passed the tree with the clutch fully released.On yellow I go about 80% slip and roll to 100% while sliding the clutch. Could you explain what the clutch mod is supposed to do.All my 60ft were similar 1.736 1.733.1.675.Also if that's true about the VP I'll never buy it again the rep I talked to for the drag racing division he told me two years it could last after being opened.I asked him that specifically because I read around alot of people saying what you just told me.I'm also going to send them an email tommarrow to get it cleared up.If you could find a video of those runs or a slip from then could you post it or PM me?I'd like to take a look at it maybe I could pick up something thanks again.
Im about to head to the dragstrip right now,I definitely have&will post my timeslips. Only vid I have is of my Gen2 Busa sorry. Nah man,that MR12 is nasty shit,it makes power but if you dont flush it outta your fuel system as soon as your done with it,you will gank up your fuel pump,injectors and fuel rail. Ask me how I know :smash
Also,that rep is full of it,it absolutely goes bad after a few weeks once you crack the seal. Post over on psychobike and they'll tell you exactly what I told ya.
Clutch mod refers to eliminating the slipper clutch thats on the K5/6 for roadracing;it will fuck up your launch and while slipping the clutch the clutch will cause the bike to start bucking and the lever will start to pulsate in your hand. Thats the best I can describe it. To remedy that,you weld the two piece slipper together and thats that.
520 would be perfect for you,and save a bit of weight. Get the 3D from Motomummy,they're tough and look great.

No offense but I reakon your weight would be costing u half a second easy over a little skinny bloke
Eh,he is only 25-30lbs heavier then I was,it will definitely cost a couple of tenth's but I don't think a half second:dunno

If you correct it for DA, it comes to about [email protected] Can't believe they want 100 dollars just to run it on the dyno.
Positive DA is a motherfuckah. Im so spoiled when I run at Atco or MIR,the DA is mostly negative...I remember some days when it was -3500:eek
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Thanks a lot, I hope you do great at the strip. Wow /that DA is crazy, where I live, elevation isn't that high, but summers are hot and humid. I'm going to see if I can sell this hookup (only have a few passes on it and 80 miles) and grab a power one, and try that 3D you suggested. I have to change my oil and inspect the clutches, so I'll have someone local weld the slipper for me, but thanks for the offer. I do ride every chance I get so I want a minimal downtime. I live near Chicago everything is expensive here, cheapest place I found to do a tune was $250.00 but it's 3.5 hours away. I might make a rode trip out of it, they said they had a nitrous K6 down there they just built should be cool. I think I might try to loss a few pounds also. I'm pretty lean for my weight though I compete in power-lifting for exercise. Thanks again for all the help, I've got my goals for the next track day hopefully I get in the 1.50's on my 60ft I'll post it if I do and a video_One more question, I mic my clutches, look for burns, and warped steels, I also change the oil after every track day. I usually only make 3-4 passes is this necessary.I can't afford a major failure so I have been watching it close.
 

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looks like a pretty solid setup. i think a clutch mod would help out the short times. also, aside from everything else stated the gearing is probably what's hurting your mph a little. at 250lbs suited i was only able to run 16/43 gearing at stock wheelbase because i still had a slipper clutch. it was a double edged sword with the slipper clutch because i couldn't stage above 5000rpm without the bike wanting to pitch up at random, and i couldn't correctly gear the bike to get a decent short time because it amplified the randomness even when staging a little lower (if that makes any sense to you). but hey i could click down from 5th to 1st at the return road without blipping and not have rear tire hop, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Went to the track today long story short clutch went out on me.Watched the video some runs I thought I was doing a burnout and I actually wasn't. I knew it was borderline after last track day but went anyway. After the 5th pass it was sliding in every gear managed my best et and 60ft so far but mph was way low. It was funny though it didn't slip till after 7k maybe I didn't adjust it right going to get new clutches and dyno tune to see if that helps me. I didn't do my mods in stages plus I'm getting better at riding. So I really don't know what helped what.As to the gearing I know at the 2.8 gear ratio the motor would still kind of load up to much on the start it didn't really go until 6k.The stock gearing was terrible didn't pull at all till 7k.I like this 3.06 really gets me moving the problem is the shifts come so fast I have to really focus on my shift points to not miss a shift.I honestly don't have a problem with the stock clutch, though I'm only launching at 4200 rpm now, anything over 4700 and I'm 12 o'clock it's fun at the balance point and no rear break.The bike only comes up if im not keeping my weight forward through first or the shift to 2ND.I'm physically pulling myself forward with my helmet as close to the windscreen as i can get.I'm going to try 15/44 with a 520. Once I can consistently 60ft 1.60's maybe high 1.50 I'll upgrade.I don't just want to keep adding stuff on my bike to go faster I really want to become better.Also d3coy could you post some of your swb times or PM me?
Here is the run, don't mind the car tire wheelie bar drag bike whooping my tail lol!!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FlpTZTTqaPw
 

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