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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Do these old GSXR's have the cheapest, flimsiest, most annoying and inconsistent axle blocks on the planet??? I'm an ex Yamaha master tech, and have worked on pretty much every Jap bike, dirt bike, ATV, European BS, even worked for Harley for a while. And NEVER have I encountered such fussy chain adjusters. Mine appear to be in mint condition, as is the swingarm and axle. Everything moves smoothly, and axle nut torqued properly. Even re-snug the grub nuts after axle torque for good luck.

Chain adjustment becomes anyone's guess the moment you tighten that axle. I end up experimenting around with it for a good 3-4 tries, usually having to set the sides unevenly so it ends up cinching itself straight after axle torque, then snugging up the loose grub nut. THEN, upon return from the test ride- the chain may be loose, tight, or just right. Your guess is as good as mine. Am I retarded or are these adjusters bullshit? I have NEVER had issues with chain adjusters on literally anything (except quads) until now. I'm doing all of this on a Pitbull spool stand, btw.

Does anyone (Yosh? LightTech?) make aftermarket adjusters for these bikes? I personally wasn't able to find any. I'm actually considering having my machinist engineer some kind of solution, but unfortunately it looks like the way these swingarm lugs are, it would probably require welding on a boss for a different style grub screw (new design would be more conventional- eliminating rearward facing studs and cheapo bent steel pieces).

I have literally no idea how rampant this issue is, but if it seems to be common I may get a decent size batch made. Just testing the waters.

PS: Are all 600W, 750W, 1100W rear adjusters the same? I cant remember... And slabsides use a smaller axle, right?
 

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Juvenile Thinker
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Same adjusters for the 93-95 750 and 93-98 1100s. I personally haven't had any trouble with mine save for one that was stuck fast and took a bit of heat and oil to loosen. Beyond that I use a spool stand as well and haven't had an issue with axle creep. No aftermarket that I am aware of.
 

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First off which side do you have the axle nut on? It is best to put it on the brake side, and this has always worked for me. If the nut is on the sprocket side you need to put something like a screwdriver between the sprocket and chain and rotate the tire until it is caught between the two firmly before tightening.

Really, Master Tech? lol
 

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Never had any issues with any of the W's I've had in the past :dunno
 

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Switching the axle nut over to the brake side is news to me - there is no downside? I don't understand how that would make a difference....
When the nut is on the sprocket side most people will position their wrench on top and end up pulling the axle back as they tighten. On the other side with the wrench on top you are pushing the axle back into the adjusters. There is no downside that I am aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I generally always run my axle nuts on the brake side, at least whenever possible (on many bikes the exhaust becomes an issue). Although I did switch to sprock side temporarily just for shits and did not notice any improvement in axle creep.

Met with my machinist a little earlier and turns out, he just got his hands on a Faro CMM (if you don't know, look it up, these things are awesome). So I will be bringing him a spare arm and axle soon to do some experimentation. At second glance, there may actually be enough material on the lugs to avoid any welding/severe modification. Stay tuned.
 

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Calamari
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First off which side do you have the axle nut on? It is best to put it on the brake side, and this has always worked for me. If the nut is on the sprocket side you need to put something like a screwdriver between the sprocket and chain and rotate the tire until it is caught between the two firmly before tightening.

Really, Master Tech? lol
The screwdriver trick worked for me. Never swapped nut to brake side and no problems.
 
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