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Anything can be made to fit, just depends on how much time, money, and patience you have.

For a very simple and very well sorted out conversion to inverted forks on an 89/90 1100, here is the recipe:

  • 91/92 GSXR 750 lower triple clamp (with steering stem)
  • 91-95 GSXR 750 inverted forks (USA), fender assembly, and steering damper fork tube clamp with steering damper holder
  • Either 91/92 GSXR 750 upper triple clamp or 95-98 GSXR 1100 upper triple clamp.
  • 95-98 GSXR 1100 handlebars.
This is almost a complete simple bolt in installation and will allow you to re-use your front wheel and discs, stem bearings, axle, wheel spacers, calipers, axle speedo gear, brake/clutch master cylinders, left/right handlebar control pods, and steering damper. The steering stops will work perfectly and the handlebars (mounted on top the upper T-clamp) will clear the upper cowl and tank perfectly. The forks are shorter than the stock units so adjustments may be needed to your brake lines (but I doubt it).

If you want the least hassle to mount the 89/90 instrument pod, use the 91/92 GSXR 750 upper T clamp and drill two holes in the T clamp to mount the 95-98 GSXR 1100 handlebars. These will mount on top of the clamp and again will clear the upper cowl/tank perfectly. There are cast in, thicker aluminum bosses underneath the T-clamp that will show you where to drill the holes to get the correct handlebar mounting angle. Its like those bosses were intended to allow bar mounting above the clamp. Line up the handle bars and the holes will show which bosses I am talking about. Use the largest highest strength steel bolts to fasten the handlebars through the T-clamp bosses; I forget the max size bolt, perhaps an M6. I did the calculations and the high strength M6 should be adequate; but don't use anything less. Get suitable spacers to fit the M6 to the larger M8 (or M10?) hole in the handlebar.

The 95-98 GSXR 1100 upper T clamps will provide a bigger hole for the handlebar mount and allow use of the stock mount boils (M8 or M10). However you will need to custom make an adapter bracket to allow the stock instrument pod to be bolted to the T-clamp underneath. Also, the ignition switch mounting pillars on the 95-98 clamp should be machined down by 10mm or so for the switch to stick out of, or be flush with, the ignition switch hole in the T-clamp. Otherwise the switch will be lower than the T-clamp and look stupid.

Of course you should re-spring the forks for the larger weight of the 1100.

Other combinations may work (such as GSXR 600 parts that are the same as the 750/1100 above), but you would need to research that for yourself.
 
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