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Unstable SuperMod
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Discussion Starter #1
Please find below a various posts of compatible parts to interchange on our Water Cooled Gixxers.

If you have any questions, please contact the member who wrote the origional post.

Rear rotor compatibilty - By fredybender - Post # 2

Unstable SuperMod
21,904 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
After my dreaded experience, I would like to share the following rear rotor compatibilty, as nothing in our stickys relate to this, and hope that others might benifit from my mistake...

Rear rotor compatibilty: 240MM
GSXR 600 : 88-95
GSXR 750 : 88-95
GSXR 1100 : 88-98
GSXR 1300 Busa : 99-05
GSX-F Katana : 98-01
RF600 & RF900 : 93-97
SV650 : 99-02
Bandit 600 : 95-00
Bandit 1200 : 97-03

Please note that these are to the best of my knowledge, gathered with the same part numbers for all of the above models, from Brake Tech USA.


Premium Member
1,346 Posts
So swapped the 1100 cams for 750 cams and it work perfectly.

The dimensional shape of the cams is exactly the same.

Things that match are:

Camjournalholder OD
Camjournal ID
Camlobe width (basecircle is the same)
Spacing between cam centers (750W and 1100W cylinderhead) is the same so the cam lobe angles are the same aswell (heard some rumors on the internet that these were different but then all the other variables wouldnt match)
Distribution timing and marks are the same
Chain length (13 pins) between the 2 cams is also the same
Camsprocket dimensions and position is the same

So in other words its a straight swap :cheers

Only thing that are different is the shape of the lobe, in other words the valves timing is different

Left cam is from the 1100W, right cam is from the 750W

The 1100W cam is more pointy then the 750W cam

750W intake cam opens earlier and closes later
750W exhaust cam opens earlier and closes the same time as the 1100W exhaust cam

One can easily see the advantages of these cam swap (cylinders get better filled with mixture, engine might climbs faster in rpm's?).

But there are some things that i noticed:

1: Valve overlap will now be greater which means the chances of pumping fresh mixture straight into the exhaust are likely, i counteracted this 'problem' by using the 750W exhaust cam which has lesser valvelift to create more backpressure (dont know if that works???).

2: Since the intake valve closes later you will have lesser compression during the lower rpm's or during a compression test.

Cold engine compression test confirmed this but i need to testrun the engine first and will meassure once my bike is setup to have a warm compression test.

I also made some singh grooves in the cyllinder head which could also lower the compression but not 3-4 bars i reckon.

Those 2 things were the first that i direclty noticed, i see no further issues for this swap.

Oh is there much difference between a cold compression test and a warm compression test?

Compression pressure readings for the cyllinder were all between 12-12.5 which is ok but hoped for a bit more.


Started the engine today and it works perfectly!

Engine seems to run much quieter then before?

Good thing or bad thing?

I mean even the 'normal' rattles are gone (even from the alternator drive).

Guess the camchain and/or tensioner were to loose from the start.

Premium Member
1,346 Posts
Re: 750 cams in 1100 engine

The only difference between the 1100W and 750W camshafts (beside the different cam profile) is the spacing between some of the cam lobes.

The 750W has 1.7mm smaller spacing the the 1100W.

Meaning that the camlobe is offcenter about 0.85mm per valve.

I did 3-4 trackdays with the 750W camshaft and it hasnt give my any headaches so far, this fall and winter i will pull the camshafts out to check for extra wear.

Personnaly i dont recommend this swap for street bikes becaus they make alot more miles/km then track bikes.

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