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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, im kyle/pingu1000, from the isle of man. New to the forum.
After building/racing oil cooled bike for over 8 years i decided to build a gsxr 1000 k5 drag bike. i purchased a frame, engine, ecu, ignition and a mountain of other parts from a friend who was selling up his spares etc from racing a turbo gsxr in SSB.
i have finally come to installing the loom and, now everything is connected, i am getting a fi code C42 (ignition switch signal) and the key light is flashing when the ignition is turned on. so it would seem the ecu and key arent communicating as they should.
As this is a drag bike, is there any way i can get around the immobiliser system? i still want to use the key to turn the bike on/off but i do not want to spend out the £300+ on another second hand key/ecu set unless i have no other options to try first.
i have read various threads about joining wires, fitting resistors etc but there is no clear indication as to whether this would cure my issue or not.
i understand the concern some might have around giving information which can inevitably be used to disarm immobiliser systems on bikes that do not belong to them so i am happy to be contacted privately to discuss any possible solutions. i am also happy to provide proof that the bike does belong to me and i am looking for advice for a legitimate reason.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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First, it would be best if you confirmed that you had "matched" parts. The immobilizer ignition switch has two four pin connectors while the US/Can switch has a single six pin connector (five positions used). There are two variations of the wiring harness to match these differences. The immobilizer harness also has an additional Br/Y lead from the ECM to the big connector to the front harness. Next, the ECM is different for immobilizer and non-immobilizer. The US/Can version is 32920-41G10 (K5) or 32920-41G60 (K6). Everything else is immobilizer but beware of 32920-41G30 or 32920-41G80, which are the reduced power versions for French bikes.

Assuming that you have immobilizer parts, it's possible to flash the ECM to switch the theft checking from immobilizer to resistor (what the US/Can bikes use) or none. But you'll have to find someone who's familiar with the details of flashing to do that.

Note that by turning the anti-theft off, it will be much easier to steal the bike, not a huge issue with a race-only bike. See #8 & #9 here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, it would be best if you confirmed that you had "matched" parts. The immobilizer ignition switch has two four pin connectors while the US/Can switch has a single six pin connector (five positions used). There are two variations of the wiring harness to match these differences. The immobilizer harness also has an additional Br/Y lead from the ECM to the big connector to the front harness. Next, the ECM is different for immobilizer and non-immobilizer. The US/Can version is 32920-41G10 (K5) or 32920-41G60 (K6). Everything else is immobilizer but beware of 32920-41G30 or 32920-41G80, which are the reduced power versions for French bikes.

Assuming that you have immobilizer parts, it's possible to flash the ECM to switch the theft checking from immobilizer to resistor (what the US/Can bikes use) or none. But you'll have to find someone who's familiar with the details of flashing to do that.

Note that by turning the anti-theft off, it will be much easier to steal the bike, not a huge issue with a race-only bike. See #8 & #9 here.
Thanks for the reply.
How can I confirm for sure that the key/ignition is matched to the ECU? The guy I got the parts from had so much spare parts as he built and raced 1k turbos in SuperStreetBike so it could be possible that the parts were mix matched and aren’t actually paired. i did ask and he is sure that they are matching as they were kept taped together from one of his old race bikes.
My ignition has two 4pin connectors as you say, and my ECU number is 32920 41G00.
I understand why removing the immobiliser isn’t exactly ideal but the chances of my bike being stolen, especially on the Isle of Man, is very slim. So I’m happy to go without the immobiliser.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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32920-41G00 is a K5 EU/UK ECM. Your ignition switch (and hopefully the main harness) matches it. The easiest way to check if the key matches the ECM is to put things together and see if it turns on. Anything else would require some specialist equipment/time and probably $300 or so. If it doesn't turn on, you can either flash the ECM to turn anti-theft off, pay a specialist to make a matching key, or buy a matching key/ECM. Note that the key opens the gas cap and the rear compartment in addition to the ignition so those locks really ought to match. Redoing the tumblers on non-matching locks is something that a competent locksmith should be able to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
32920-41G00 is a K5 EU/UK ECM. Your ignition switch (and hopefully the main harness) matches it. The easiest way to check if the key matches the ECM is to put things together and see if it turns on. Anything else would require some specialist equipment/time and probably $300 or so. If it doesn't turn on, you can either flash the ECM to turn anti-theft off, pay a specialist to make a matching key, or buy a matching key/ECM. Note that the key opens the gas cap and the rear compartment in addition to the ignition so those locks really ought to match. Redoing the tumblers on non-matching locks is something that a competent locksmith should be able to do.
Everything is plugged in and connected. When I turn the ignition on, the key light on the dash flashes and it gives fi code C42 which is ignition switch signal so the ecu isn’t pairing with the key.
I don’t have a fuel cap or any other need for a key other than to turn the bike on, as i run a fuel cell under the drag bodywork. I may have to look into getting a new ecu and key if I can’t get it flashed to remove the immobiliser
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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I suspect that you're going to want to flash the ECM for other reasons like adjusting the maps and rev limits. There ought to be several people in England that will do it for less than $100. But you might look into something like what Woolich sells so you can do it yourself. I'm unaware of what it's about but you might also consider updating to the K6 bin.
 

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Try contacting Afro Afro - he hasn't been active lately...
I've helped him with flashing etc.

I could remove the immo but it would be cheaper for you to ship to England.
 
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