Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok here is the story, may of 06 i bought a 97 gsxr 750 from a bike shop.Most days it was a when"red" felt like running shed run type thing.One night on the interstate i was doin about 70 when she started slowing down and cut off on me.20 mins later she started again only to die two exits later wait another 20 mins and bairly make it down the street home.She hasnt started since then. First bike whatever i got dicked. :mad The bike had run maybe a month since a bought it. Its been to 3 mechanics who "missed" the fact there was probley an inch of standing rust mud on the pump,and in the sight glass attached to the pump. i was informed if it was in the sight glass it ran through the carbs. I ordered a new pump and tank. New sparkplugs oil change antifreeze cleaned the carbs, i didnt mess with the pilot jet tho my manuel said is was factory set and not to fuck with it turns over and over but no start where am i going wrong cuz im two seconds from giving up on her and tossing her over a bridge:hammer please help :wtf

· Registered
70 Posts
is fuel getting to the carbs? you may wanna go thru and double check the carbs again, it only takes 1 tiny little piece of dirt to clog a jet or passage. and if you do decide to toss it off a bridge,get some footage-that be badass:D

· Registered
448 Posts
Ok, Its Probably Not Coils- There Are 4 Of Them And If It Doesnt Try To Start, The Chances Are Slim That All Four Are Bad. All You Need Is Fuel,spark,air. Remember The Basics. Im Going To Assume That The New Pump Is Correctly Installed,connected And Is Working. Check For Spark. Pull Plug Wires From Engine And You Can Use An Old Sparkplug For The Sake Of Saving Time From Taking Out The Ones In The Motor. Ground The Plug And Make Sure That You Have Spark. If You Do: Now Lets Go Back And Verify The Fuel. I Am A Once Upon A Time Technician, But This Next Method Is Not What I Would Tell A Person That Doesnt Have Common Sense , But I Can Tell That You Do, So Next, You Can Take Off The Air Box And Use An Old Rag That You Can Spread Across The Carbs. Spray Carb Cleaner Or Starting Fluid Evenly Across The Rag At The Carb Openings. Then Crank It. (you Could Just Spray It Into The Ram Air Tubes, But If You Did, And For Some Reason You Only Had A Couple Of Cylinders Fire) Then You Wouldnt Know Right Off If It Was Because They Just Didnt Get A Whiff Of The Juice Or If There Was A Problem With The Dead Cylinders), So Doing The Rag (ha Ha) Method Is More Decisive. Anyway, Crank And See If It Fires. If It Does, Then You Should Get A Couple Good Revs Form It Before The Rag Is Dry. Now If It Runs, We Know That It Is A Fuel Problem With Out A Doubt. Then Proceed By Re Checking Pump Operation, The New Pump Should Have The New Strainer On It. Some People Dont Realize That The Strainer That Is Attached To Your Fuel Pump Is Very Fine Screen, Thus, Will Clogg Up Long Before The In Line Filter Will, Giving The Appearence That The Fuel Has Good Flow, When It Doesnt. I Can Assure You That Following These Steps Will Get You Progress. Back To Spark, If You Didnt Get Spark, There Are Multiple Reasons Why: I Will Just Name The Most Common That You Can Check.
1: Pick Up Has Gone Bad
2: Faulty Connection. (check For Corrosion At All The Connectors Under The Fron Fairing) As Well As The Connection From The Pickup Coil To The Harness)
3:the Cdi Box. You Can't Really Test The Cdi Box For Operation Unless You Have Another Bike To Test It In, But You Can Narrow It Down To The Cdi Box. The Most Direct Way (assuming That You Have Completed All The Other Steps I Mentioned). Unplug The Pick Up Coil Connector From The Harness And Connect A Volt Meter Using The Low A/c Scale. Check The Manual, But My Memory Is Telling Me That You Should Read No Less Than 0.5 Volts A/c While Cranking The Engine. Thats A Half A Volt. It May Be 0.2-0.5 That You Get When Cranking The Bike. If You Are Getting The Out Put Signal, You Most Likely Have A Faulty Cdi Box. Hope This Helps You Get It Going!!!. Also, Yes It Is Possible That You Could Have Clogged Idle Jets If It Is Infact A Fuel Problem, But Check These Other Things First And See Where It Takes You.

· Registered
452 Posts
I just posted a similar problem on another thread.
Initially, It was BOTH leads on the battery.
Since my son's came loose several more times we applied a dab of silicone and then tightened -hey, it works-.
Amazing that those two connectors get that loose and then actually let the bike run -for awhile- .
The plug/spark suggestion was good just a little incomplete.
Yeah, you can use an old plug. Plug into #1 or #4 -to start at one end or the other- plug wire and ground - I used the frame- crank the starter . You are looking for spark the fatter and brighter the better. You may have to have a helper hold the plug with insulated pliers -don't squeeze that hard you idiot-.
I got bit in the past just holding the plug head or plug wire, if they start going and the lead is 'leaking' you can get a hellacious jolt. Replaced the plugs and the bike was fine for two days.
Then started dying on the road, and suffered hard starts.
We removed -pain- the tank, drained and flushed added carb/injector cleaner for two tanks, then octane booster for 2 tanks. Worked for 2/3 days.
Pulled all the fairings -ass fairings too- to inspect ALL connectors and components.
Pulled the chatter box -different strokes for ...- pulled every connector apart -one by one- checked for corrosion, crunchy/smoked insulation, only real oddity was it look like someone had tapped into the feed wires to coils -just the insulation- and then taped it over ???????
Replaced the plugs with platinums as they were wet fouled again.
It's been running OK for about a week now, but stutters around 8000/9000rpm, especially with a quick roll on.
Plugs are still getting wet. So now it's down to the bike running rich.
we figure since the prior owner (PO) was into appearance -picked it up in Alexandria, Va. last month on the 12th, it's beautiful!- and he put a great looking
Micron system, header on back, that he never had the carbs adjusted.
There are no airbox to carb leaks, the intake tubes weren't overtightened, all of the vac lines are in place, good condition lines none blocked/capped off and they go where they are supposed to. No exhaust leaks either.
Unfortuneately the big dealer wrenches around here told us there is no pump, "This is a carbed bike, Dude! they are gravity fed, don't you know anything?" So my shop support is run by (&[email protected]!#&$_IDIOTS... I'm waiting for my shop manual a set of carb sticks and a air fuel ratio meter/gauge. Stuck till then.
Check the throttle position sensor, right side of the engine -that metal and plastic thingy-. See if it or the two screws holding it are loose.
Before you check for fire using a single plug, go ahead and pull at least one plug to see if it's wet fouled or carboned up -light brown/tan is the color you are hoping for. Don't crank the engine for a day or two, OK? Then check. If you crank the engine and it doesn't fire the plugs are gonna be wet and throw off your inspection. Since you have the front fairings off anyway... if one plug is wet check the others, if they are all wet buy a set of platinums and install them AFTER the spark check. If the bike has been popping when you rolled off the throttle, either you have been running rich or someone capped/'T'd off some of the vac lines check out bugmans site at or,
he's on another gixxer forum. There was a 2pair vacuum modification that people were using to evacuate the crankcase pressure and he can get you back to stock very cheap, pictures and diagrams there. If you stick a finger in the exhaust and it feels ...FUZZY as well as being very black that's another indication of running
rich. Most bikes will run rich somewhere in the powerband and will be a little black but the fuzzy soot buildup is indicative of being WAY to rich.
There is another post here somewhere about leaning the mix and how to adjust but seems a tad incomplete.
In the OLDE days, if the clamps on the throttle body, intake mouth side of carb, where the airbox rubber hose is clamped to the carb was overtightened -easy to do- it distorted/bent the intake mouth and would not flow air the same as the other carbs or could actually impede the slide. Might want to eyeball that as well
Also depending on miles and abuse timing chain tension is a dark horse last place.
As mentioned above that's it.
Fuel, spark, timing, fuel/air mix.
Good luck and hang in there.
let us know what's happening.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.