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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is an ignition advancer and a tre worth it on my k3 1000.Currently I have a slip on ti force and two up on the rear sprocket.I can hardly keep the front wheel down.third gear stand ups come up like second used to.Any input would be helpful.
 

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Spend the money on a better steering damper or swap out the oil in the stocker.

My 2003 needed nothing. TRE was unnoticeable.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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Is an ignition advancer and a tre worth it on my k3 1000.Currently I have a slip on ti force and two up on the rear sprocket.I can hardly keep the front wheel down.third gear stand ups come up like second used to.Any input would be helpful.
Uhhhhhh, maybe you might want to drop a few teeth in the back. You do realize that adding teeth to the rear sprocket will make the engine spin up faster and make it more wheelie prone right???
 

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im interested too in the real-world benefits of the ignition advancer
is there anyone who can post relevant info re the question instead of unrelated bs
 

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There are no real world benefits to an ignition advancer for the 1000 street rider on pump gas. Try to squeeze the last bit of power from an engine within some set rules governing ECU reprogramming? Then sure.

Go to your local shop and have the yosh box plugged into it and get the ECU reprogrammed.

Why do it mechanically when you can do it with cheap software/hardware?

Maybe my opinion that taking a dump before your ride makes as much differnce isn't valid...c'est la vie
 

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so they changed yosh boxes lately - cos the last i heard they dont do squat for ignition timing

yeh cosworth - go take a dump - lol
 

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on my k3 i removed the ignition pickup on the end of the crank/ovaled the mounting slots/and re-fitted [mainly i did this to get the 'gap' between trigger and pickup correct, it was a bit too gappy and im a perfectionist]

anyways, using a degree wheel i experimented with advancing +1......+2........ and +3 using 97 ron pump gas [uk regular gas not the premium stuff coz in my area its not always available]
anyways it ran best overall by advancing only 1 degree....... sure it was a bit more instant using the +3 but its right on the limit of ecu tolerances and it had extra vibes.......so i found it best at +1

what i will say thi is this......in stock form theres enough slack/tolerance for them to vary from bike to bike by 1 degree easily [the mounting point for the pickup alows a fair bit of movement with no enlarging of the holes req] so baer this in mind if you wanna experiment
 

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thats an interesting thought gixxerslug - cheers mate,
which way was whitch - from that side of the bike looking at it
was it top toward rear for advance
 

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its the same principle for all engines, to advance you want to move the pickup in the opposite direction of travel, so if the crank rotates clockwise, turn the pickup anti-clockwise........or on some engines the pickup is static, but you can move the ignition rotor, in which case its the opposite of what i just said [turn rotor in same direction as crank to advance]
but as mentioned before, if you advance the timing too much the ecu with 'sence' a problem with the crank pickup and give you f1 codes and grief, so best to only advance small amounts especially using pump gas........obviously if you can easily get hold of 100 ron or higher/race gas etc then you can advance much more [but this only brings ignition timing back to usual [ish] levels due to the retarding nature of slow-burn-fuels like race gas
dont forget the comp-ratio on gixxer engines is quite high as stock also..... so advancing too much, combined with prolonged wot [wide open throttle] use can cause detonation problems, and you dont want that........
so in conclusion its down to what quality of gas you run/can get hold of, combined with how the bike runs with varying amounts of advance....so like i say, for road use i'd persnally not advance more than 2 degrees :thumbsup:
 

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I've got a lot of dyno time over almost 3 years of racing this engine...
Ignition advancers are OLD TECH, very old.
With pump gas you get more hp up top by taking a degree of timing OUT.
Advancing 4 or 5 degrees will make your engine run like it was from yesteryear, SLOW.
TRE can be good, advancer bad.

Currently, using unleaded race gas @ 100 octane i get some extra torque by using 1 degree advance in a few SELECT places. Also get about 10 degrees more on the water temp.
 

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I've got a lot of dyno time over almost 3 years of racing this engine...
Ignition advancers are OLD TECH, very old.
With pump gas you get more hp up top by taking a degree of timing OUT.
Advancing 4 or 5 degrees will make your engine run like it was from yesteryear, SLOW.
TRE can be good, advancer bad.

Currently, using unleaded race gas @ 100 octane i get some extra torque by using 1 degree advance in a few SELECT places. Also get about 10 degrees more on the water temp.
"Also get about 10 degrees more on the water temp." You are asking for trouble.
A little fluctuation in your base conditions like intake-air-temp/fuel-octane/etc. and it could be a lot
worse than 10 degrees hotter. Anyway a cooler engine makes more power.

If you have improved the combustion (reduced the squish) you might want to try reducing or retarding the advance at higher rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Uhhhh!Yea I do realize that going up in teeth make the bike more wheelie prone.Thats why I did it.The question was ... Is a tre and ignition advancer worth the money.
 

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all you need for a tre is a 6.8 k ohm resistor [5th gear value] it will give you back the normal timing in 1, 2 and 3rd gear, and get rid of any top speed restriction.....cost you about 2 p or a dime [ish] sorry my currencey knowledge isnt too hot

but to be honest ive found all the gixxers ive worked on run better overall without the tre [taking into acount all the gears/smoothness of throttle transitions etc]
sure if you want to go racing chuck in the resistor [i did when i did 'judgement-day' on my k3 last year] but for road use all things being equal i prefere it without

and as for ignition advancing, i only went into it to check the 'gap' between pickup and rotor was correct [it wasnt but is now]
and as i was in there i mucked about advancing to experiment......and as i said it ran best by advancing 1 degree.....but also as prev mentioned concider this.....what if manufacturing-tolerances were such that mine was slightly more retarded than average to start with, for all i know by advancing 1 degree ive just brought it back to 'spec'.....another reason for experimenting, to get things to work in conjunction with each other as best they possibly can
 
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