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Discussion Starter #1
Hello gents another stupid question.
I have a 86 1100 now punched to 1220 jetted ported and polished heads. how ever I cannot get this beast to idol lower then 3500-4000 rpms other wise she just dies on me. I'm looking to rejett this winter. But until then do you gents have any suggestions on a temporary fix. I do not mind having to pull the choke to get it to start. come to think about it I have to do that any way. I do allow the beast to warm up for a good 5-10 minutes before I ride. I was planning on getting a high preformance clutch becuase of the added horses and my local wrench head says the I would not need it he say these old gixxers already had them. Is this true?any suggestion would be apprecieated!
 

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it won't idle probably because you need to synchronize the carbs u can purchase a vacuum set for $40 bucks and is well worth it especially if your planning a jet kit plus u will always have it
i don't think there is anything special about the stock clutches and i wouldn't need to upgrade them unless they are bad in that case i would definitely go with a set of barnett discs and plates along with a barnett clutch basket
 

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if the bike refuses to idle, that would sound to me like a carburetion or ignition issue. there's no 'quick temporary fix', except to hold the revs up.

give us a quick history of the bike.....has it been stored for a few months prior, what kind of carbs are on it, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I Just got the bike about 2 months ago. The person that did all of the work on it was the previous owner. A cager hit me on my 1st bike a(knight hawk 650) so I took the insurane check $1700 and signed it wright over to the guy that own my 1100 gsxr. He told me it had been punched out to 1220cc and high preformance pistion and valves added it has had he heads ported a polish. It has a vance and Hine supersport exhuast system on it and it has been jetted with a stage 3 kit . He had pictures of the bike and his new gixxer 1100 with juice at the track. he said he let it set for a year when he got his new bike. so the first thing I did was pull the flaot bowls on the carbs and they seemed to be spotless. I've checked the plugs and no matter how I adjust the air fuel screw It seems to run rich. the secondary coils are aftermarket Accel think is the name on them. they are yellow. I hpe this helps.
 

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i assume your choke is working properly - meaning, it turns on when you pull the knob and turns off when you close it.

my first guess would be that the main jets are too big....if he did put in a big bore kit in there and simply installed a standrad stage 3 jet kit, the jetting would be too rich. usually, punching out a motor increases the vacuum signal that the carbs 'see'....and because the 'pull' through the carbs is stronger, you would actually need to go down on main jet size compared to if the motor were at its stock displacement.

at any rate, you should probably take the carbs apart and make note of what settings they're at....main jet size, needle clip positions, etc.

i'm assuming they're the stock 34mm carbs? and they've got individual filters on them (which are necessary for stage 3 jetting), correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jeff you're dead on. It does have the K&N individual filters. I just pulled them last night and they are as clean as it gets. should I change the adjustment on those? if so how much do I tighten them or loosen them by your guess. Those plugs are real black. I just want to tell you agian that I apprecieate your response. I'm trying to learn and people like your self are a huge help!
 

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no, it's not the air filters.....i'd strongly suspect the jetting, it's way too rich, thus the black spark plugs.

sounds like the previous owner just plopped a stage 3 jet kit in it without really tuning it...

first, identify the carbs.....are the round carb tops made of metal, or plastic? if metal, that would be the stock 34mm carbs that originally came with the bike....if they're plastic, they'd likely be 36 or 38mm slingshots from later gsxr's. there should be some numbers stamped on the left of the #1 carb or on the right of the #4 carb.

just so we can get an idea of how the bike is set up now......also, remove the float bowls and carb tops to see what size jets are in there and what positions the needles are at.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will have to get back with in a few days. My kids just got new beds and the old ones are in my garage. In a few days they will be gone and I can get in and work on it. I will respond in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I still can't get to my tools to work on my bike. But I do know that I have the stock carbs. Here's another thing. My neighbor says that it sounds sounds like a "Vacum leak" all I can see is two hoses comming off of the carbs both going to the tank should there be others? is there a way to check the vacumm of the carbs?
 

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a vacuum leak wouldn't cause the bike to run rich, it would cause it to run lean....2 hoses to the tank (1 for fuel, 1 for the vacuum petcock) sounds about right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok today was to beautiful had to ride did not turn wrenches today. let me know if this changes what you suggest. I did notice today after pulling the choke and then returning back to original position. The bike Idoled fine. then I road it for a few miles and when I stopped at the light the thing started to Idol high. from what I can tell the bike will Idol at first but once it warms up it will die.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
oops sorry about that last post It was late and I was sleepy. What I was trying to say is I have to pull the choke to start it. once started and the choke is pushed back in for the first couple of miles at lights or stand stills the bike will idle fine. but once It gets warm it will idle really high around 3000-4000 rpms. so if I adjust the idle dial down after it gets warm it will not stay running at the lower adjustments only at the higher idle speeds.
 

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how does the bike run aside from this issue?

it doesn't sound like a vacuum leak or the bike running lean (if it were running lean, the problem would get better as the bike warmed up).....has the bike always behaved like this?

my first guess would be some sort of issue with the ecu (black box) that's causing the weird behavior.

the easiest way to confirm or rule that out is to swap it with a known good ecu (even one from an 86-87 750 will work for testing purposes) and see how it goes.
 

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My buddy had a 90 gsxr that would rev really high, he spent 900 bones on rebuilding the carbs, jet kit and a new pet cock,,three different shops worked on it,,, Now i'm no expert but i took a hold of the bike and found out it was the fuel petcock , he insisted it was new and it was , but it was the cause of the reving , would idle at 5 grand at a stop light ... so i replaced it with on i had there and to this date no problem with the idleing and carbs work fine. this might be something to think about , all the shops said it was the carbs .. but it was the petcock ... also i've been told to always replace the clutch with stock parts and not the barnett. they say the stock clutch is way better . this is just what i've experienced and heard ... good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Where would I find the black box on my machine? How much will I be looking at to get a new one? I have checked the petcock it looks ok will I have to get a Gixxer petcock or is there another that I can get? we only have one bike salvage yard around here and the guy told me that everyone hangs on to the old gixxers and use them as drag bikes. so it is rare that he will see any.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
just wanted to run this suggestion by you. A gent from work said that he would try running a little bit hotter plug. He works alot on cars but he does not have a bike so I wanted to double check this advice before I tried it what do you think?
 

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the black box is located behind the first tail section panel on the left side of the bike.....the one right under the rider's seat. if you take it off you should be able to see the black box bolted to the battery holder.


as for the spark plugs - it's a possibility.....they may just need to be replaced, or they're of the incorrect type. it might be a good idea to pull them anyway to see what kind they are and what color the electrodes are (to get a feel for how the bike is carbureting).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It will be a day or two before I will get time to pull the plugs. I will reply then. Thanks again for your help!
1100-G = 1220 bore........... $1700
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AOl account...................$20
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