[ucigaragemilitia]

Ok, so my bike is running great, no problems, just had it dyno'd and mapped again. I went to the mountains this past weekend for a great ride. Well im riding around today and smelled burning oil at the stop, look down and smoke is coming up through the plastics. Ok shit, pulled into a gas station to check, found out my oil filter was a little loose and had leaked onto the header. Tightened the filter up (hand tighten), whiped everything down and off I went with no problems.
On the way back from class I accelerated HARD in first and when I came to the stop sure enough burning oil smell with smoke again. I checked the filter and head this time and nothing is leaking.
Could there be residual oil on the header that was just burning off even though I already wiped it down?

 

[Catatafish]

Absolutely. I have clumsy hands and every time I change oil on any bike I inevitably get oil on hot metal. I'll wipe it down and drive away and it'll still smoke and stink for a few miles.

When you got home, did you tighten it two full circles from when the filter touches, with an oil filter wrench?

 

[ucigaragemilitia]

I only hand tighten my filters, yea something around 2 turns (2/3 rotation) after gasket contact.
When i get home I am going to pull the body work and check everything. Nothing is leaking onto the ground which is good, I have just never had this problem.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers

 

[ATLDave]

Probably left over from the mess you made.

And Catatafish...Jeez, two full circles with on oil filter wrench. Do you work at Jiffy Lube. Just enough pressure to seat the seal is fine. About one turn by hand after the gasket touches is plenty. Just spin it on until it touches then hand tighten about a turn.

 

[Catatafish]

The service manual and owners manual call for two full turns after contact. I thought this was very unusual too as everything else I've ever had was just like a car...hand tighten. Might want to torque that sucker down real good.

Edit: I know Dave I couldn't believe when I read it. I don't know why this bike, or this OEM filter requires 20x the torque of any other motor vehicle made on the planet, but I swear it says it. By hand, I could only get it about 2/3rds of a turn. But I followed the manual and the second time it was a bitch getting that thing off of there.

 

[ZBoomer]

I think the reason it calls to tighten the filter two full turns after contact is because the filter threads on a Suzuki are a lot finer than most oil filters, so you have to tighten it more turns to get the same amount of compression on the gasket.

 

[gimpsta]

you can overtighten even by hand yes.

and of coarse residual oil is left over. be glad you didn't end up a lot worse.

checking everything esp. after doing something to your bike is the best preventive maintenance b4 hitting the twisties.

 

[ucigaragemilitia]

Problem fixed, I found a spot of oil on my header that I couldnt see with the plastics on. The filter is on fine and bike is running great as always.
Thanks for the input and sorry for the veteran newb question :hammer

 

[LeMans]

you can overtighten even by hand yes.

No, on an 06 750 you can't. Manual says two full turns after contact, same as many other Suzuki models.

To acheive this you need the Suzuki OEM filter tool with a wrench hooked to it so unless you are from Krypton, that's not going to happen.

Removal of the filter with the factory tool is a breeze.

 

[ZBoomer]

Removal of the filter with the factory tool is a breeze.

I used a generic strap-type filter wrech from Walley World on my first oil change, and it worked very well too. I did go ahead and order the factory tool though, it was cheap.

 

[LeMans]

I used a generic strap-type filter wrech from Walley World on my first oil change, and it worked very well too. I did go ahead and order the factory tool though, it was cheap.

+1 These things are dirt cheap and also work on other models like the SV.

Remove fairings, change oil and filter, put fairings back on, DONE.

But I have also heard of alternative ways of doing things, like leaving the fairings on and splashing oil everywhere, or stabbing the filter with a screwdriver in order to damage the threads... :hammer

 

[Catatafish]

I used a generic strap-type filter wrech

I too used the same strap-on that I've had for 15 years. It didn't fit on one bike so I just used a wire cutter to modify a section for clearance.

 

[LeMans]

I too used the same strap-on that I've had for 15 years. It didn't fit on one bike so I just used a wire cutter to modify a section for clearance.

As long as you use a tool designed for the job (NOT a screw driver) you'll do just fine... :cheers

Wish I could find the screwdriver thread though :lol :lol :lol

 

[ATLDave]

I too used the same strap-on that I've had for 15 years.

:lol :lol What you do in your own time is your own business, but do we really need to know that! J/K. :flipoff

 

[physik3r]

It's pretty hard not to get oil everywhere on some bikes. I usually change the oil while it's hot in order to minimize viscosity, otherwise it tends to run along the underside of the block and nobody likes the smell of oil after they've just changed it.

 

[LeMans]

It's pretty hard not to get oil everywhere on some bikes. I usually change the oil while it's hot in order to minimize viscosity, otherwise it tends to run along the underside of the block and nobody likes the smell of oil after they've just changed it.

You should ALWAYS change the oil when it's hot anyways