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How to Remove your Stock Airbox in 3 minutes

11083 Views 30 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  kiwisuzuki1100
It almost looks impossible to remove the stock airbow from a 1st gen gixxer. The only way it seems to be possible is to first remove the engine. Not so!

I did it last night, after deciding to go with individual air filters. I wish I had of taken pics, but was too excited with my progress.

1. First, the carbs need to be removed, sucks, but you need to. Then remove the air filter from the box and unscrew the box screws and remove the top brackets.
2. Now twist the airbox counterclockwise, with some force, watching out for any interference with the alternator or anything, then tap the box for the final 1" movement with a rubber mallet. That should clear it from the frame and it will be free to move around sideways in the frame.
3. Now, push it in towards the carb area to get some rear clearance above the starter relay, and with a little move careful force, shove the carb tube part up and over the frame near the battery.
It will pop right out with no damage to anything.

My carbs were already out ( I couldn't get the carbs reinstalled with the box in place, part of my reason for going with individual filters.) and from that point, it took approx. 3 minutes to remove the airbox.

Reinstalling the box should be easy enough in the reverse order.

Hope this helps somebody out.
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This should be a sticky. This question comes up often and most people deny it can be done. I knew I did it once before, but could not remember how. This might help eliminate the senseless destruction of air boxes in the future!!!
On a 2nd gen you just need to pull the carbs and alternator, I pulled the boots as well to reinstall it just to give the extra clearance
i can do it quicker - it took me roughly 10 seconds -
step one grab lumphammer
step 2 raise above head
step 3 blow

erm - ok you wanted to keep the box - i see

wish i had known how to remove before i smashed it though
wish i had known how to remove before i smashed it though
Like I said... Sticky please.
wonder how many airboxes are left now - not many ill bet
I did the same thing about 2 weeks ago with out dropping the motor in the 1100. I did however remove the boots on the box, alternator and the little bolt about the alt so as to not mark up the box. I gave the box to someone that wanted it and didn't want it all marked up. Now I have to help him get it back into his 1100:blink

I was going to take pic's too and post but thiings kinda took off and didn't think about it.
Yeah, I paid $40 for one a while back for my 750. They surface every now and again but don't command a lot of money yet. They will in a few more years, bet on it.
i pushed the left side down and back right side forward and up -did a search on this site
thats how i always do it as well, easy once you`ve figured it out
i may have to start collecting airboxes - then when theyver reached a peek price - everyone will want one
i couldn't figure it out, so i removed the engine and sold the airbox. i will never go back to an airbox (or 18" wheels), so for me, it is a done deal.
there is something to be said for stock airboxes..negative pressure is created behind the engine when moving..this is where pods are trying to pull from.an airbox is desighned to overcome this and also feed all 4 carbs with same pressure..i know there is merit in pods but an original intake setup only lacks in velocity apperture opening size..easily soughted with aftermarket air cleaner and velocity ring.just my 2 cents
So we've proved that there are a couple of good techniques. It was driving me nuts to think that it can't be done.
I just couldn't get my carbs back on and get enough pushing power with that box in place. I finally put some o-ring lube on the inlet of the intake boots, and that helped get them on.
there is something to be said for stock airboxes..negative pressure is created behind the engine when moving..this is where pods are trying to pull from.an airbox is desighned to overcome this and also feed all 4 carbs with same pressure..i know there is merit in pods but an original intake setup only lacks in velocity apperture opening size..easily soughted with aftermarket air cleaner and velocity ring.just my 2 cents
i experienced a significant power increase in the upper RPM's with the pods. so significant of an air-flow increase, that the bike would just fall flat around 5K without bigger main jets.

yeah, stock airboxes are good for stock/original bikes.
so marko, is that all the changes you'd need to make to your carbs when switching to pods, the main jets?
What size would you suggest for a set of 29mm on a 750 with a header, ignition advancer and hotter coils? I live in Ontario as well, which would be New York style weather.
And where would I buy the main jets only?
there is something to be said for stock airboxes..negative pressure is created behind the engine when moving..this is where pods are trying to pull from.an airbox is desighned to overcome this and also feed all 4 carbs with same pressure..i know there is merit in pods but an original intake setup only lacks in velocity apperture opening size..easily soughted with aftermarket air cleaner and velocity ring.just my 2 cents
+1 on the aftermarket air cleaner and biggest possible opening, in the stock air box.
Also, is there any way to keep water out of pod filters? You know, besides not ever having the bike in the rain/wet.
hey team bogus, i don't have experience the 29mm flatslides, since we did not get them here in the USA, but i went with a factory-pro jet kit and k&n air-filters. the jet kit included everything necessary. it is not just the main jet, adjustable needles are also necessary. the fuel mixture screws also had to be richened up a bit.

another reason i ditched the airbox is because i went with 36mm slingshot carbs.
+1, is there any way to keep water out of pod filters? You know, besides not ever having the bike in the rain/wet.
yup take them off lol

seriously though get 2 - 2litre pop bottles and chop off the bottom and make a slit down the side so that the inside gap between the ither filters are still there then slot the bottle over the filters and clamp down on the filter clamps - do this to the two outer pods and it will keep the rain off them - the tank will cover the other 2 - short of that get some yoshi cold feed kit carb covers - airtech sell them and they will cover the pods - but wont keep the rain off them whilst riding :punk
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