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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I just finished changing out the oil/dust seals on my 99 750 and I though some other people might like to see some pics to hopefully help other people who tackle this job.

First I want to give credit to GSXR-Freak for writing a how to. I found that thread and also a post he made with some various tips and they really helped me out. Thanks for that, glad it's still around. Here are the links to the posts I'm talking about:
How to: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42293&postcount=3
Tips: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3419981&postcount=13

I really didn't know what I was in for since I've never worked on suspension before but it wasn't too bad really. The 2nd fork went smoother than the 1st. I do see the need to have a friend or a special tool to compress the spring as it was the hardest part so I would recommend that to anyone who does this. Anyway, on to the pics...

Front wheel removed, calipers secured.


Forks removed from the bike


Ready to open



Finish unscrewing the fork cap.


Eventually the outer tube will disconnect from the cap and you can pull it down.


Next remove the small clip on top of the preloader.


Now you can remove the preload adjuster.


Get your 17mm wrench onto the damping rod by compressing the spring.


Remove the fork cap.


You can now remove the spacer and washers. The three legged piece in this picture actually goes in the fork cap, I set it down in the wrong spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Remove the spring


Drain the oil. Be sure to pump the damper rod to get all the old oil out.
Once the oil is drained place the fork on it's side and pry off the dust seal.


Now you need to remove this clip inside the fork leg



Once the clip is removed pull the two fork legs apart


Here is the oil seal with a washer and two bushings. Next time I'll be changing these bushings, the silver one is a bit worn on the outside and the inside is losing a bit of the grey coating it has.


Correct order of the parts


Had a few small nicks on the leg. I could feel them with my finger so they need to be fixed.


Apply some new fork oil to the chip/nick and then wetsand. I used 2000 grit and it really smoothed it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now it's time to put it all back together. Put a bag over the end of the fork and apply some fork oil to it. This will help protect the seals from the sharp edges of the fork when installing them.


Here is everything back on the fork leg.


New seal ready to be driven into place. Actually I noticed the seal didn't look like it went on quite right so I took it off and reinstalled. You can see where it looks a bit off,


I cut a piece of PVC from a 1.5in diameter piece. This worked great. The 1st fork I was able to just push on this and that drove the seal in. The 2nd fork was a bit tougher and I had to lightly tap the PVC with a hammer.


Seal driven into place and clip reinstalled


New dust seal installed. Also I put grease between the oil and dust seal as was recommended in the how to.
Now you can refill the forks. The manual calls for 480ml which is what I used. I don't have the measuring tool however so it's not as precise as I'd like but I think it will be fine.
After you've filled it with oil be sure to pump the damping rod again like when you drained the old oil so you get all the air out.


Reinstall the spring and spacer/washers
Get the wrench back on there somehow...
You can now reinstall the fork cap and preload adjuster.


Done! just need to tighten the caps all the way once it's back in the triple tree.


Back where they belong
 

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Discussion Starter #4
if anyone has any tips on compressing the spring to get the wrench on the damping rod that would be great.

hope this helps someone. let me know if you have questions..I'm no expert but I'll try to help. :cheers
 

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"The Gloved One"
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Sweet! You're gonna make me get off my hump and replace my seals now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah i was kinda dreading it honestly, the seals sat on the bench for awhile before I decided I just need to get it done. But really it wasn't that bad and the how to helped a lot. The service manual has extra steps like removing the damping rod and the compression adjuster which really isn't needed.
 

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On the springs, Without the compressor, the only way I have found to get it done is just grab and pull down. lol You get used it after a while, but it has not been worth it for me to buy a tool.

On some forks, I did have to make a tool to hold the locking nut inside the preload spacer. No fun. But it works ok.

John
 

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damn sweet write up!!

I'd prolly still at least take just my forks to a shop to have it done though - mainly cuz i'ma big puss and not tryna ride with a "what-if" or "it should be ok" suspension and end up like this dude...my luck is like that :biggrin

 

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damn sweet write up!!

I'd prolly still at least take just my forks to a shop to have it done though - mainly cuz i'ma big puss and not tryna ride with a "what-if" or "it should be ok" suspension and end up like this dude...my luck is like that :biggrin

I have separation anxiety whenever I leave something at the shop. If it's something simple, I'd rather fuck it up myself than wonder if skippy at the shop was 'feeling it' that day. What can I say...I got trust issues when it comes to some mechanics. Looking at the design, SRAD forks are a lot easier to get right than to get wrong.

I'll have to take some pics of my homemade spring compressor when I put in my new springs some time this week. I think it's a must-have if you're going heavier than stock on the springs. (Not necessarily my design, but a compressor of some kind.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
On the springs, Without the compressor, the only way I have found to get it done is just grab and pull down. lol You get used it after a while, but it has not been worth it for me to buy a tool.

On some forks, I did have to make a tool to hold the locking nut inside the preload spacer. No fun. But it works ok.

John
Yeah that's what I ended up doing, it worked but was kind of a pain getting it compressed enough to get the wrench on there.. I guess if I was going to be doing forks all the time a tool would be worth it, otherwise I'll just deal with it.
 

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I have separation anxiety whenever I leave something at the shop. If it's something simple, I'd rather fuck it up myself than wonder if skippy at the shop was 'feeling it' that day. What can I say...I got trust issues when it comes to some mechanics. Looking at the design, SRAD forks are a lot easier to get right than to get wrong.

I'll have to take some pics of my homemade spring compressor when I put in my new springs some time this week. I think it's a must-have if you're going heavier than stock on the springs. (Not necessarily my design, but a compressor of some kind.)
lol yea I feel you on that. I only have 1 shop I deal with and 1 master mech in that shop I deal with and he takes his job super serious....so I have no worries with leaving anything with him. The shops around this area are a dime a dozen and it's super easy to get gaped out here if you don't know anything about everything. Some just decline to work on a 99. :dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #13
damn sweet write up!!

I'd prolly still at least take just my forks to a shop to have it done though - mainly cuz i'ma big puss and not tryna ride with a "what-if" or "it should be ok" suspension and end up like this dude...my luck is like that :biggrin
thanks, i figured some pics might help someone.

as far as a shop goes I was going to take it to a shop here in town who would do it for $140 which included the parts. I didn't think this was a bad price really but I didn't really trust that they would use oem parts or replace both the oil and dust seals. I got the parts for ~$75 so that plus a few hours of my time isn't too bad. it really wasn't that bad though and i got to learn how to do it in the process.:punk

i do hope i don't end up like that guy though, i bet he was in pain a few seconds after that pic was taken lol
 

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That guy must be a rare case... lol

Anyhow, I had pics and a small video that was with that write up, but over the years and the changes the site has made, they must have been lost. :(

Always nice to have a new set of pics.

John
 

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Hey everyone, I just finished changing out the oil/dust seals on my 99 750 and I though some other people might like to see some pics to hopefully help other people who tackle this job.

First I want to give credit to GSXR-Freak for writing a how to. I found that thread and also a post he made with some various tips and they really helped me out. Thanks for that, glad it's still around. Here are the links to the posts I'm talking about:
How to: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42293&postcount=3
Tips: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3419981&postcount=13

I really didn't know what I was in for since I've never worked on suspension before but it wasn't too bad really. The 2nd fork went smoother than the 1st. I do see the need to have a friend or a special tool to compress the spring as it was the hardest part so I would recommend that to anyone who does this. Anyway, on to the pics...

Front wheel removed, calipers secured.


Forks removed from the bike


Ready to open



Finish unscrewing the fork cap.


Eventually the outer tube will disconnect from the cap and you can pull it down.


Next remove the small clip on top of the preloader.


Now you can remove the preload adjuster.


Get your 17mm wrench onto the damping rod by compressing the spring.


Remove the fork cap.


You can now remove the spacer and washers. The three legged piece in this picture actually goes in the fork cap, I set it down in the wrong spot.
Ian, would it be possible to restore the links to the images? About to attempt GSXR750L 1990 front fork seal change and thought your description and photos would be very helpful but cant access any of the images? Thks Mike.B
 

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Man does some folk seals and he's scarred for life!
I can only imaging what a transmission repair or valve job would have done to his mental stability?
 
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