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I thought that I would add this to the list of thing for the noooob


First of all figure out what you want.

This sounds stupid, but I have heard of people walking into a dealer wanting one bike, and riding out on a totally different one, and wondering what on earther happened in the between.

So, decide what you want, and then figure out how much you are going to have to spend.

Lets talk about finance

Cash is the king, and lets face it, most any bike can be bought for under ten grand, so financing is not really essential. Its also a lot harder to finance a bike than a car, because they are harder to repo, and also much more likely to be wadded.

Finance also forces you to have full insurance, something that many newer riders cannot afford.

So, you have your budget.

If you are buying used (and I for one cannot stand the "hit" that I take as I leave the dealers, its a bit more complex than new.

First of all look at the price that is being asked, and take 10% off it.

Then make a physical list of eveything that you can see that is up with the bike. Take it for a test ride. Do not rag on it - remember its not warm, but ride it far enough to get a feel for it. Check that it tracks straight, and that the brakes do not shudder.

Check the gearbox for action, and tryin pulling hard in the lower ones, then back off, and whack the throttle open - if it jumps out of gear - and some do, walk away.

Once you get back to the dealer, update your list.

add up the costs of each and every minor issue, and take that off the price - along with the 10%. This is your base price - you want everything fixed, and you want to be as close as possible to that number too.

Walking away works. If you have the cash, put it on the table


If you are buying private, a similar rule applies, but dealing one-to-one is often easier.

Here is MY check list.

1) Overall condition - it should be clean, clean, clean. mis-matched fairing, different color matches etc point to a crash

2) Check the staor cover - is it "rough" if so, its touched the groud.

3) Look at the brake rotors - are they scored ? Did you feel any pulsing ? Thats $500 off please


4) Look at the frame, if its polished, there is a posibility that its been dented, welding a frame this way is the only way to disguise a dent. I personally would never buy a bike with a polished frame.

5) look at the tires. Are they melted off the rims ? If so they may be race take offs - this is bad. Or the bike has seen some track action - this is not a really bad thing, but you might want to check to see if its seen any kitty litter action.

There is a real easy way to do this - check the wiring loom - see if the conectors have sand in them.

6) Take a look at the VIN number and the engine number - check that this matches the paperwork. No paperwork ? Walk away (for good).

7) Listen to the seller, if he brags of 100mph wheelies, he is a dickhead, walk away, its been thrashed.

8) Carefully rock the bike back and forth, with the front brake on - any clicking will point to a maladjusted, or worse damaged, head race - this is another bargaining point.

9) Has it got all the accessories ?
Seat hump and passenger seat ? Each one is $60
Manual - $25
Toolkit - $30
Tank prop - $15

10) do you LIKE the mods ?
not everyone likes all the mods that bikes have, do you want to put it back to stock ?

For the haggling, here are a few base prices...

Brake Rotors - $500
Brake pads - $80
Tires - $300
Chain and Sprocket set $300

Its best to take a biker buddy with you, as the voice of reason as much as anything.

Do not be affraid of losing the perfect bike by walking away, you can always send a buddy to see it and furtehr low-ball the dealer, before you go back and take a second look....

[ 01-13-2003, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: fRaGgLe ]
 

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Just like to say great post, advice well worth taking, especially the bit about not being scared to walk away from a bike you really want. You'll thank yourself when you get it for a lower price or find a better one!

Great tips.
 

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Absolutly,
You got to be willing to be patient and willing to walk away. When your spending this kind of money you want to spend it wisely.

Awesome write up.


Later,
 

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Good right up only think this should be reversed.


"So, decide what you want, and then figure out how much you are going to have to spend".
 

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Also, if the bike is used, Also take off 25% or more because dealers rape on trades...I just met a guy at a local "super sport" bike shop and they paid less then 3500 for a near perfect 2001 R1 and were asking 7500! Good luck selling that bike at that price. I had 1/2 a mind to offer em 5000 but decided to wait...I don't have the money right now
 

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When buying a new bike I think people should consider the time of the month that they walk in to make the purchase. If you walk in on the first day of a new month you will get screwed. Walk in on the last day of the month before a new quarter and you will get basically whatever you want. In my case I got close to $3000 off a brand new gixxer 750. They ended up needing my sale to move to a higher tier in purchasing power from Suzuki. Was very happy overall.
 

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Darn good tip Mr. Jones,

However for us that have to buy used bikes, that won't work as well. Hehehehe...However, it was still a great tip!
 

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I live in the United States, in the northeast. Now, I have noticed that besides the Kawasaki 250's and 500's, you don't see any smaller displacement bikes for sale. I'm lookin for a first bike, and I'm not sure if I want a kawasaki. What are the chances of getting used bikes [like CBR400's] that originally weren't sold in US. ...Or... where can u get them newer? Canada?

Thanx,
Rob

ps - Is there any place that lists claimed hp numbers for all or a good number of cycles? I could figure it out from quarter times... but then I gotta use a pencil and a calculator.
 

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MX_Demon said:

Darn good tip Mr. Jones,

However for us that have to buy used bikes, that won't work as well. Hehehehe...However, it was still a great tip!
If youre buying a used bike let the seller know how much you have to spend....Quote him something well below what youre prepared to spend and maybe hell tell you what he would have taken for the bike. Suddenly remember where you have that extra stash and there ya go. I made the mistake of being the victim in this sort of circumstance but I thought it was wise.
 

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Very good point Mr. Jones,

Well, I think i got a decent deal on my 89 GSX-R, so I'm happy. However, I'll keep that in mind when I decide to upgrade to a newer model.
 

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tyte
 

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walk in knowing your shit, get some blue book values, act like you dont need to buy the bike right now, act like you dont need to buy the bike from them....you dont care you can go down the street and get a better deal.....and most importantly you have to be willing to walk out the door, and let them know that, thats what i did, and i got a great deal on my bike and helmet
 

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I was looking at buying a 03 GSXR 600. The best price I found is $7700 OTD. Does this seem fair. I'm going to pay with cash in hand. Also, I always thought that the time of year fluctuated the prices because of the demand.
 

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great write up. bikes are not like women, there is a difference between them and not just any ol' one will do when you need a ride
. couldnt agree more, patients is the key.
 

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I dunno if this was mentioned or not (I'm too lazy to read all the posts in this thread) but if you live in the South like myself, I highly reccommend you buy your bike up north... much cheaper because they can't ride all year round up there.. but we can down here
Also buy it during winter when its cheapest, and if you live somewhere like FL then you can start riding right away and u don't have to wait for the winter to end. Hope this helps, later
 
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