[EddieRideFast]

I replaced the clutch with an OEM Suzuki kit.
Replaced the clutch lever with an aftermarket adjustable.
Replaced the clutch cable with a Motion Pro aftermarket cable.

And I'm having trouble getting slack in the clutch lever.
I mean, I can get slack, but if I get it to where there is slack in the cable (enough to put a quarter between the lever perch) then the clutch engages too soon (bike tries to take off while clutch lever pulled all the way in).

I can get perfect shifting where the clutch engages with the lever about halfway out but then there's no slack in the clutch lever.

I can get one or the other. Right now, I've got a tiny bit of slack, a little less than a dime's width.
But the clutch engages just before the lever is halfway out. A bit too soon for me.

I first set the clutch lever wheel all the way in.
Then, I set the sprocket cover located adjuster to where there was a quarter-width of space at the aftermarket clutch lever.
Then, I set the adjusting screw under the clutch cover so it met slight resistance and then I backed it out 1/2 turn.
Then, I dialed it in using the wheel at the clutch lever.

I did not touch the three adjusting screws under the clutch cover because all three were factory set and had three threads showing, which should be fine AFAIK.

I can't use the 10-15mm clutch lever adjustment because I have an aftermarket lever.

 

[BillV]

Search the K5/K6 subforum for clutch adjustment. There are several relevant threads. There are three adjustment points and it's not clear that you're adjusting the clutch cable adjuster, i.e the middle one. You've highlighted it in your first pic but I don't see it mentioned in your text.

 

[2017Dave]

It is super important to have slack in the cable or else the clutch would not be fully engaged while riding which could cause very fast wear of the clutch plates. It should have some play with the bars turned as well. Problem may be with your aftermarket lever. Also try adjusting the reach on the lever.

 

[boostenlebaron]

It's critical to have that Freeplay.
Where did you get your lever? Chinese specials are notorious for piss poor machining causing them to technically fit but ride the brakes or clutch. You notice it pretty quickly on the brakes as they heat up and lose power but the clutch is a bit harder.
Make sure your adjusting by the middle adjuster too and use the bar adjuster to fine tune it. The quarter clearance is just a reference, you may want more or less but you need some Freeplay.

 

[EddieRideFast]

I first set the clutch lever wheel all the way in.
Then, I set the sprocket cover located adjuster to where there was a quarter-width of space at the aftermarket clutch lever.
Then, I set the adjusting screw under the clutch cover so it met slight resistance and then I backed it out 1/2 turn.
Then, I dialed it in using the wheel at the clutch lever.

Sorry for the confusion, the middle adjuster is what I was referring to by "sprocket cover located adjuster".
This guy:

The new clutch lever is a Puig foldable 3.0
I've got it pulled back to show you how much slack there is (not much).

And I've got the adjustable-reach set to the #1 (or is it #6) point where the lever is furthest from the grip.

The Puig is comprised of a mount and a lever, two separate components.

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So, what's the trick to fine tuning this?
It's driving me nuts!

 

[EddieRideFast]

Here's what it looks like under the clutch cover.
I did not touch the three adjustment screws here because they looked good already.
I only touched the inner adjustment screw. Screwed it in until I got slight resistance and then unscrewed it half a turn.

 

[2017Dave]

I don’t know that any adjustment to the clutch itself would change anything. Its either engaged, slipping, or disengaged. Maybe try to take some slack out of the cable and change the angle that the arm is sticking out from the clutch cover. Make the arm closer to being parallel to the bike. If you take the arm out and put it back into the next notch moving it closer to the bike that may help.

 

[boostenlebaron]

The fine tuning is done by the knurled nob by the lever. That's the last thing to adjust though. Usually I set the knob in the middle and set everything else so the clutch is fully functional then I use that to fine tune where is grabs and the amount of slack. I end up with about an 1\8th inch slack.
The puig lever is probably adding a level of confusion to your adjustments. It's really only used to set the distance of the lever to your bar. By itself it doesn't effect the clutch action except for your perceived engagement points. I would probably toss the stock one back on just to make things a bit easier then put the puig back on or set it to a middle position and leave it.

 

[EddieRideFast]

the arm is sticking out from the clutch cover.

Are you talking about the arm on the sprocket cover side?

 

[EddieRideFast]

Was wondering how to adjust free play by looking at clutch pack movement. Maybe my idea of free play at the lever is different from reality.

 

[EddieRideFast]

Btw also replaced rear sets at same time, so I did mess with the sprocket cover side arm for the cable.

 

[2017Dave]

If you have it all back together the assembly should be fine. It looks like you have the free play adjusted fine but you’re just not happy with the feel. Try moving the arm into a different groove on the spindle. It may make a difference. Also-adjust the free play so there is less free play which will engage the clutch farther out from The bar. Check it at full turn and when you are riding. Its so easy to adjust with the knob on the lever, just stop the bike and turn it. As long as there is some play it is fine. Of course the instructions and service manual tell you to make sure you have a certain amount of free play!

 

[Nightbat®]

I've been riding around with a minimal amount of slack in the clutchlever for almost 2 decades/100K miles
Just enough not to put tension on the cable at full turn of the handlebars, and I have yet to burn out a clutch
I did replace the entire basket of my K6 750's clutch once (With a 2nd hand one), but that was somewhere in it's 60K lifespan and not done because of slipping

 

[EddieRideFast]

Thanks, folks.

What's the distance like on your bikes for this?

Where "A" = how far the clutch cable thread sticks out from the frame.
And "B" = how many inches is the Shift Stopper Lever from where the threads start on the clutch cable?

Not a pic of my bike, it's a random Internet pic.

 

[EddieRideFast]

I've messed with all these adjustments and also the stopper lever by the sprocket cover.

• If I have a correct amount of free play, then the bike is lurching forward with the clutch lever pulled in.
• If I have a very tiny amount of free play, like 1/8" at the perch, then the bike moves forward sooner than it should but it works.
• If I remove the free play then it shifts like a dream. Exactly how it should shift.

What else could be causing this issue?

Maybe the clutch rod needs to go in further?
I could try screwing it in until slight resistance is met.
And then instead of backing it out half a turn, I could leave it as-is.

 

[2017Dave]

Try putting the stock levers back on and see what happens.

 

[EddieRideFast]

Try putting the stock levers back on and see what happens.

I gave it a shot but it has the exact same issue. No difference.

 

[EddieRideFast]

The Clutch mod thread doesn't mention anything about it.
But, I wonder if the concave washer makes the clutch pack tighter or something.
Because the washer is "wider" not in thickness but because of the outside flair/concave.

 

[TwistedMister]

its important to have slack to inure your clutch is releasing all teh way and your cable doesn't have tension on it when its out

 

[EddieRideFast]

It was mostly a rhetorical question to provide context into my issue.

Does anyone know what effect screwing in/out the clutch push rod adjusting screw has on the clutch action?
I mean, I'm really close to being okay. I just need a tiny bit of improvement to feel good about things.

I figured out how to adjust the arm properly.
My bad eyes never noticed the dimple on the Clutch Release Arm and the "grooves" on the clutch release camshaft.

So, I aligned the dimple with the grooves.
Loosened the clutch lever and the clutch adjuster all the way out.
Then adjusted the clutch push rod screw to half a turn out from resistance.
And then adjusted the other points.
Not sure if it helped. Still only able to get about 1/8" of slack. And the clutch still grabs a little too quickly as I let out the lever. And shifting to neutral at a stop is a little difficult. These issues go away and I get butter smooth shifts once I take out the remaining slack and go a turn or two more.

I'm wondering if I'm just not screwing the clutch rod screw in far enough.
It's meeting light resistance but I can go further.
When I first tried all this, I was able to go all the way to a hard stop, where it wasn't possible to make it go any further in.
But then the locking nut didn't have enough threads to grab onto to hold the screw in place.
But I don't know what issues I might introduce if I try to screw the push rod past the point of initial resistance.