Re: How bout a 12\'oClock 101?
i have a secret. learn brake control on a smaller, more forgiving, less expensive, and overall lighter weight FIRST. example. xr50. xr80 (for those that want to learn the clutch). klx110. something that is going to require you to use balance and brake control, instead of power and momentum. AFTER you've dialed in balance point wheelies on your play/practice bike, start learning to slow them down. This process will take longer for those that have jobs, it took me about a month no job, no dl, just a fiddy. THERE IS ANOTHER CATCH, all of these pit bikes will require you to be sitting down and learning balance side to side and vertical. ONCE YOU HAVE ALL OF THIS. you begin on teh big bike.
LEARN SIT DOWNS FIRST. cover your brake. start from 5-10 mph. depending on bike/gearing you will need to "DUMP" the clutch harder than your used to. maybe consider setting a fast idle at around 3k, depending on bike. ALSO PULL UPWARDS, or make a graceful movement into the swept back 12 position. most guys "tuck up" and try and look over the windshield, it's never gonna happen. HANG OFF THE BIKE/BARS, you'll be looking throught the space in between you ram intake tube and your front wheel. STAY ON THE GAS BUT NEVER EXCEED 30, staying slow keeps you safe and your bike, well.... THIS WILL TAKE TIME AND LOTS OF DEDICATION. depending on how dialed you are on other machines I would def recommend a scrape bar just cuz it's convienant and leaves you w/ options, compared to blasting tail/light/subframe and having 500lb comin at ya. so anyhow, STAY OUT OF TRAFFIC, you will crash, dont let them see, or have an oppritunity to run you over. pick the same stretch of rode and learn the pitch and grooves. RUN 20 psi. CHECK ROADS FOR "ROUNDNESS", this is def i a factor in weight shifting, also thick paint stripes will pitch you funny sometimes. LEARN TO RIDE THEM OUT BEFORE YOU PARK, then parking will be so natural and easy the rest of the "parking/scraping" tricks will come in less than a week. So you learned to ride sit down twelves, park, and bar tricks in 3+ months.
STAND UPS. begin w/ left foot on pass. peg, right foot on brake, obviously. AGAIN USE YOU BODY ENGLISH to YANK UP the bike even though your really not lifting shit. I cant tell you how crucial this is with any kind of wheelie or stoppie for that matter. IT WILL COME UP A LOT QUICKER, but you'll be ready on the brake. THIS SHOULD COME VERY QUICKLY, the hard part was sit downs, now your not holding on so damn hard. LEARN TO LAY OFF BRAKE, your probably on your 3 or 4 set of pads by now. SET IDLE HIGH AGAIN, to provide a constant drive of power that you can disengage anytime by pulling in the clutch, yes, cover the clutch w/ one finger. ANY YOU WILL LEARN PRECISE THROTTLE CONTROL, because w/ sit downs you'll always be on the gas and resisting w/ the brake, stand ups are easier to coast or idle at a constant speed. FOOT IN BAR is again a huge shift in weight displacement, your now standing on the bike instead of holding on. It's so different in fact that initially learning to yank it up will feel unnatural until you feel the stance. STAY UNDER 20, make it 15 to be safe. you'll be fine but your stator, starter gear, and crankcase threads won't. NTH, NO HANDERS, OTHER SHIT is easiest when learned w/ foot in bar. CONGRATS YOU CAN NO DO SLOW WHEELIES, and now know balance point, brake control, throttle control, 3 different stances, and a couple other things. YOUR BIKE IS TRASHED, and you realize that everyone can do em by now. DAMN IT, you say. what's next? CIRCLES, GOOD LUCK!!!
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR GEAR, 12's are much safer but can still get ugly quick. I've hit my helmet several times, hard, losing a 12. I NEVER RECOMMEND RPM, sorry, figure it out. STAY ON THE GAS, during sit downs. ALWAYS FILM, ALWAYS. even if it is a whole bunch of crashing, that's what most want to see anyways.
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i have a secret. learn brake control on a smaller, more forgiving, less expensive, and overall lighter weight FIRST. example. xr50. xr80 (for those that want to learn the clutch). klx110. something that is going to require you to use balance and brake control, instead of power and momentum. AFTER you've dialed in balance point wheelies on your play/practice bike, start learning to slow them down. This process will take longer for those that have jobs, it took me about a month no job, no dl, just a fiddy. THERE IS ANOTHER CATCH, all of these pit bikes will require you to be sitting down and learning balance side to side and vertical. ONCE YOU HAVE ALL OF THIS. you begin on teh big bike.
LEARN SIT DOWNS FIRST. cover your brake. start from 5-10 mph. depending on bike/gearing you will need to "DUMP" the clutch harder than your used to. maybe consider setting a fast idle at around 3k, depending on bike. ALSO PULL UPWARDS, or make a graceful movement into the swept back 12 position. most guys "tuck up" and try and look over the windshield, it's never gonna happen. HANG OFF THE BIKE/BARS, you'll be looking throught the space in between you ram intake tube and your front wheel. STAY ON THE GAS BUT NEVER EXCEED 30, staying slow keeps you safe and your bike, well.... THIS WILL TAKE TIME AND LOTS OF DEDICATION. depending on how dialed you are on other machines I would def recommend a scrape bar just cuz it's convienant and leaves you w/ options, compared to blasting tail/light/subframe and having 500lb comin at ya. so anyhow, STAY OUT OF TRAFFIC, you will crash, dont let them see, or have an oppritunity to run you over. pick the same stretch of rode and learn the pitch and grooves. RUN 20 psi. CHECK ROADS FOR "ROUNDNESS", this is def i a factor in weight shifting, also thick paint stripes will pitch you funny sometimes. LEARN TO RIDE THEM OUT BEFORE YOU PARK, then parking will be so natural and easy the rest of the "parking/scraping" tricks will come in less than a week. So you learned to ride sit down twelves, park, and bar tricks in 3+ months.
STAND UPS. begin w/ left foot on pass. peg, right foot on brake, obviously. AGAIN USE YOU BODY ENGLISH to YANK UP the bike even though your really not lifting shit. I cant tell you how crucial this is with any kind of wheelie or stoppie for that matter. IT WILL COME UP A LOT QUICKER, but you'll be ready on the brake. THIS SHOULD COME VERY QUICKLY, the hard part was sit downs, now your not holding on so damn hard. LEARN TO LAY OFF BRAKE, your probably on your 3 or 4 set of pads by now. SET IDLE HIGH AGAIN, to provide a constant drive of power that you can disengage anytime by pulling in the clutch, yes, cover the clutch w/ one finger. ANY YOU WILL LEARN PRECISE THROTTLE CONTROL, because w/ sit downs you'll always be on the gas and resisting w/ the brake, stand ups are easier to coast or idle at a constant speed. FOOT IN BAR is again a huge shift in weight displacement, your now standing on the bike instead of holding on. It's so different in fact that initially learning to yank it up will feel unnatural until you feel the stance. STAY UNDER 20, make it 15 to be safe. you'll be fine but your stator, starter gear, and crankcase threads won't. NTH, NO HANDERS, OTHER SHIT is easiest when learned w/ foot in bar. CONGRATS YOU CAN NO DO SLOW WHEELIES, and now know balance point, brake control, throttle control, 3 different stances, and a couple other things. YOUR BIKE IS TRASHED, and you realize that everyone can do em by now. DAMN IT, you say. what's next? CIRCLES, GOOD LUCK!!!
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR GEAR, 12's are much safer but can still get ugly quick. I've hit my helmet several times, hard, losing a 12. I NEVER RECOMMEND RPM, sorry, figure it out. STAY ON THE GAS, during sit downs. ALWAYS FILM, ALWAYS. even if it is a whole bunch of crashing, that's what most want to see anyways.
