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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so my front brake resivor got smashed and got a hole in it. So I replaced it, and filled it with new fluid and bled the brakes. But I think theres still some air left, cuz they feel softer and I can pull the lever farther in than before. We bled both calipers and the master, and I dont feel like bleeding em again, cuz its not too bad where it is right now. Question is can they get worse? I probably will rebleed em on the weekend, but I'll probably ride the rest of the week too
 

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Mightiest Sorcerer of the Lands a.k.a. Rhinocerous
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I used a Mighty-Vac when I changed my pads and fluid. I sucked all the old fluid out while filling it with new. Then I bled them, and I bled them again. Then I bled the master cylinder, and then I bled the calipers again.
My rubber-hosed brakes are like rocks now. I can't wait till I finally break down and get SS lines.
 

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I used a Mighty-Vac when I changed my pads and fluid.
I found that to be more of a PIA than anything else and put it right back on ebay.

Good ole' fashion bleeding the brakes with clear tube lines and constantly working it should do the trick. I'll do the calipers first and then mc, and repeat till there's no debris or air visible in the lines coming out.

Tapping the lines gently as you bleed might jar lose any air bubbles stuck in lines. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was taught that there is not enough vacumn pressure created by the mity vac to get rid of these tiny airbubbles in the lines.
 

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I use a large syringes and surgical tubing to push fluid in from the bottom of the calipers and out the master cylinder. Works like a charm, and take only a few minutes.

And the air is no big deal as long as you don't need to stop. Bleed again!
 

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Mightiest Sorcerer of the Lands a.k.a. Rhinocerous
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drtymex said:
I found that to be more of a PIA than anything else and put it right back on ebay.

Good ole' fashion bleeding the brakes with clear tube lines and constantly working it should do the trick. I'll do the calipers first and then mc, and repeat till there's no debris or air visible in the lines coming out.

Tapping the lines gently as you bleed might jar lose any air bubbles stuck in lines. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was taught that there is not enough vacumn pressure created by the mity vac to get rid of these tiny airbubbles in the lines.
There was enough vaccuum to collapse the plastic catch bottle it came with.
However, personally, I would never rely on such a thing to remove air from the lines. I only use it as a means to pull the fluid out while I fill the resovoir with fresh fluid. Saving the trouble of pumping it out with the master.
Which is why I said that I bled and bled again after mighty-vac'ing the system.
 

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OlDirtyRobb said:
Ok, so my front brake resivor got smashed and got a hole in it. So I replaced it, and filled it with new fluid and bled the brakes. But I think theres still some air left, cuz they feel softer and I can pull the lever farther in than before. We bled both calipers and the master, and I dont feel like bleeding em again, cuz its not too bad where it is right now. Question is can they get worse? I probably will rebleed em on the weekend, but I'll probably ride the rest of the week too
Be careful when you bleed them if the bike is on the kickstand you need to make sure the fluid level does not reach the hose to the master cylinder. What I do is 3 pulls and hold. Then open the bleeder very slowly. Make sure you close the bleeder before the brake lever bottoms out against the clip on.:cheers
 

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Chubby Chaser
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OlDirtyRobb said:
Ok, so my front brake resivor got smashed and got a hole in it. So I replaced it, and filled it with new fluid and bled the brakes. But I think theres still some air left, cuz they feel softer and I can pull the lever farther in than before. We bled both calipers and the master, and I dont feel like bleeding em again, cuz its not too bad where it is right now. Question is can they get worse? I probably will rebleed em on the weekend, but I'll probably ride the rest of the week too

No problem at all...........assuming you don't use the brake :)


Some good hard riding and hard braking could get you into trouble quick.

Reason: Why do you think brakes use brake fluid? Becuase it doesn't expand when heated.......air does. If you have enough air in the line, and you heat things up enough it will expand to the point that it can cause sufficient pressure in the lines to spontaneously lock your brakes up. Not something you want to have happen out of the blue is it?
 

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NOS-Nelson said:
Be careful when you bleed them if the bike is on the kickstand you need to make sure the fluid level does not reach the hose to the master cylinder. What I do is 3 pulls and hold. Then open the bleeder very slowly. Make sure you close the bleeder before the brake lever bottoms out against the clip on.:cheers
Thats the method I've been using. Been working fine for me.


.
 

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SPL170db said:
No problem at all...........assuming you don't use the brake :)


Some good hard riding and hard braking could get you into trouble quick.

Reason: Why do you think brakes use brake fluid? Becuase it doesn't expand when heated.......air does. If you have enough air in the line, and you heat things up enough it will expand to the point that it can cause sufficient pressure in the lines to spontaneously lock your brakes up. Not something you want to have happen out of the blue is it?
Most importantly is that air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot.:cheers
 

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OlDirtyRobb said:
Ohhhhhh we were closing the bleeder when the lever was pulled all the way in. That's wrong, huh? Ok, that helps, thanks!
Yes that will allow air back in. Just takes practice.:cheers I don't use a clear hose myself. I can feel vibration in the hose when air is coming out. When all the air is out the hose will not vibrate.
 

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Mightiest Sorcerer of the Lands a.k.a. Rhinocerous
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I know some MCs do but I haven't had a problem bleeding any newer bikes by pulling the lever all the way to the bar.
 

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ATLDave said:
I use a large syringes and surgical tubing to push fluid in from the bottom of the calipers and out the master cylinder. Works like a charm, and take only a few minutes.

And the air is no big deal as long as you don't need to stop. Bleed again!
This method is GREAT! Use the nature of air bubbles moving up to your advantage. The only problem is you still have to pull it back some to get the air out of the chamber below the bleed screw. I've been bleeding brakes this way for years!
:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
SPL170db said:
If you have enough air in the line, and you heat things up enough it will expand to the point that it can cause sufficient pressure in the lines to spontaneously lock your brakes up. Not something you want to have happen out of the blue is it?
Damm.. yeah that would suck huh? There's gotta be a lot of air in there for that to happen tho right? Cuz I thought we bled em pretty good, there were no more bubbles comin out, and we did all 3 bleeders. It could just be my imagination the brakes are softer. I hope it's just my imagination :p

Oh well, I guess we'll try it again :mad
 

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OlDirtyRobb said:
Damm.. yeah that would suck huh? There's gotta be a lot of air in there for that to happen tho right? Cuz I thought we bled em pretty good, there were no more bubbles comin out, and we did all 3 bleeders. It could just be my imagination the brakes are softer. I hope it's just my imagination :p

Oh well, I guess we'll try it again :mad
I used to have my brake lever adjusted in close to the clip on but noticed it was much firmer all the way out.:cheers
 

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TheGeek said:
This method is GREAT! Use the nature of air bubbles moving up to your advantage. The only problem is you still have to pull it back some to get the air out of the chamber below the bleed screw. I've been bleeding brakes this way for years!
:cheers
Never thought about air trapped below in the bleed screw. I've never had a problem, but I'll have to remember that the next go around. ;)
 

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another thing to try if they are persistant after multiple bleed attempts is to move the bars so that the brake fluid tank is somewhat level and then zip lock the brake lever in as far as you can go, just slowly pull it in a bit at a time. leave the zip tie on overnight (or longer if your able to) and the bubbles should slowly work their way up to the master cylinder.
 
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