Hey group members this is for let’s say (True success)

First off I would like to say this form is great and there is a lot of great knowledgeable members/diehard Suzuki fans 🤙🤙🤙
So the Suzuki big bad 1127cc oil boiler is going to be at topic today. 👀😵🤫
So firstly i’m not necessarily looking for a debate and or have anybody arguing over the topic at hand. The topic at hand is going to be draw through turbocharging systems!
So basically I have ran down stock 1127 engines with 2 mm cylinder spacer and quality base/head gaskets with cylinder studs and cylinder head bolts. Yes they got the job done I’m not gonna argue that in the same sense they didn’t last too long.
I have also personally went the route of 1127 good quality base and head gasket with cylinder studs cylinder head aftermarket nuts GEN one Hayabusa Pistons I personally always ran factory oil or rods on this particular engine which ended up to be a 1216CC I also ran cam oiling bridges which I personally believe helped the top a lot. The turbo kit I have always used was the old tried and true Mr. turbo with the rajay ff40 300 series Turbo. I happened to source a fresh turbo same rajay as the old one. So basically obviously like a kid in a candy store I can’t resist not to play with fire again haha 😛 all the engines always did take good butt whoopings them Suzuki oiler engines are really a great Engine. So on a sidenote I am mechanically inclined and all of my engines that I have went down this road with have had the proper intolerance Suzuki parts used in the builds they have had good fuel systems where my fuel bowl was never going empty. The motors I’ve built I have always been randomly air leak tested cylinder psi checks and lower end oil psi monitored. I have always ran a quality air fuel gauge as well monitoring that. So simply my question to the community is it would be very nice to know facts not an argument match of oh so-and-so put 350hp to the rods and in a certain manner yes I could believe that possibly on like a Dyno hit or 2! But basically what I would like to know and or figure out is what really needs to be done to put together a 250 or more horsepower oiler cooled engine that is strong as heck aka (bulletproof) for 1 is it even possible draw through for 2 Cut rate to the Chase simply does the motor all in all just need to be fully built 3 can the rajay turbo even produce these kind of numbers in the real world????? Any first hand real information would be awesome I am looking this time around to make a full blown reliable Suzuki second generation Hayabusa eater 🤫😵😎🥲 I have a 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa flashed tuned Power commander five air shifter pair valve delete Oil cooler delete full Brock’s street meg exhaust system brock clutch&lever mod APE clutch spring very slight change to the factory gearing 6 inches over on the arm velocity stacks inside the airbox air filter delete Cut forks fully adjustable brock dog bones Penski shock Tigertail a few little weight reduction mods quarter term throttle you get the point the bike made 198 wheel animal runs consist 8.90s 9.00 with me I’m 155 pounds all my buddies have practically identical set ups hayabusa wise so basically can we even make this 1100 drawl thru turbo Mr. turbo kit achieve these goals it would be great to break all of their hearts down at the quarter mile on the old boiler or in simpler terms do I really just need to go with a pressurized turbo system but then still if I go that route is it fully built motor or nothing I’m not trying to make and engine that last one season of racing I would like it to be worthwhile and safely last a few years if that’s possible thank you sorry I know that was a lot