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The stock gsxr1000 05-06 has a lock up clutch, a ramp in the clutch assembly that tries to apply clutch pack tight very quickly.
I had an 06, it was a mother to get any slip off the line.
They make an aftermarket assembly that takes away the ramping mechanism.

Look at APE racing, I believe you can get more information there.
Its part number 16 from the list it's a ramping cam.
Slipper clutch,not lock-up. Although if launched hard,the K5 will try and snatch the clutch lever outta your hand similar to a lock-up. Two simple solutions for drag racing purposes: weld the slipper mechanism or buy a Brocks clutch-mod. Both accomplish the same.

Was that in reference to what I posted?
APE knows a few things about racing.
If you're running crazy horse power, you're probably not using stock clutch to start with. :cheers
Todd quoted d3coy and was not referencing your reply
 

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OH, I beg to differ a bit here!
My K5 Liter bike is just about the same thing.
You state 'close throttle completely when shifting without the clutch?
Why completely?
I find when I'm 'getting on it', I just slightly 'blimp' the throttle a bit- and it shifts fine. Without slamming it closed.
quiclly 'blipping it' a bit 'unloads' the transmission plenty to easily shift w/o the clutch. Try it, you'll see.

Also, if I read the OP's post right, he mentions clutchless AFTER 2nd gear? YOu only really need the clutch when you're stopped, to take off, launch, easy, what ever.
You can shift into every gear without the clutch- constant mesh trans.
i recommended closing the throttle completely to have a consistent throttle position to use so the bike will shift. most likely the rider won't hit the same partial-throttle position to unload the tranny enough otherwise, and they'll end up missing shifts and losing ET because of it. BTW, Factory Pro makes a shift star upgrade that's supposed to help with easier clutchless upshifts. i never used it because i upgraded to an air shifter 6 months after i started drag racing.

as a sidenote, flipping the shifter linkage to "GP" shift pattern helps make clutchless upshifting easier. it just takes some getting used too.
 

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as a sidenote, flipping the shifter linkage to "GP" shift pattern helps make clutchless upshifting easier. it just takes some getting used too.
Except if you're an old stubborn donkey like I am,and end up smashing into the rev limiter when suddenly switching bikes with my buddy(Gen4 10R)who has a quickshifter on his bike...I just couldn't get used to the GP shift and got frustrated and told him gimmie my bike back:banghead
 

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... a year later...

I'm a COMPLETE noob when it comes to drag racing/starts.

I've got a bone stock L6 750 and going to the strip in 2 days... Have tried a few practice starts out on country roads, so I won't come in completely cold, but close.

I was trying 8000 and 9000 RPM, but didn't figure out how to get a hard launch so I've been doing at 10k and that feels about right but thought I'd ask. Some times at 8k or so, I'll slip the clutch and add power like a normal fast stoplight start and that feels OK, but not huge rush of power, but more controllable, but also more inclined to bog down and be slow, I think.

I was thinking I'd let out all the preload to lower a bit. Also reduce rear to 30 PSI.

I have the clutch free-play all the way out, and I plan to change the oil.

If anyone sees this in time, I'd appreciate any comments; At this point, I don't intend to modify bike for drag ever. Just looking for advice on how to have a good night and hopefully have all decent runs and a couple of really good ones (for me). So looking for 'easiest' technique for that bike, and hoping that I don't fry the clutch in the process, if that's even possible given that I'll probably only do 6-8 runs given the busyness at the track (Gateway, St. Louis).

Thanks!
 

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I did OK. I got a lot of information from this and some other threads.

I ended up putting HIGHER pressure front and rear (42#). Since bike will lift up the front end, no need to lower pressure to get more traction; at least that's the theory I followed.

Every ET was between 11.2 and 11.6 and top speeds all between 128 and 126 on 12 runs, ignoring 1 red-light when I was all screwed up.

Best total = 11.478 with a .198 RT.

Very few people there; I've heard you can be lucky to get 6 runs in on a Friday night.

Never really got a great start, but was able to get more consistent routine towards the end and in fact last run was best ET and MPH although a .484 RT. Best part was going side by side with my buddy on that run and we both did 11.787 times; slip says he won by .0003! (crap!) His RT was worse, but I musta bogged it but then had pretty good shifts and was running him down; just ran out of racetrack. Was his best ET and MPH also.

Coulda/woulda/shoulda/didn't put my -1 front sprocket back in; I was using for a while on street and track but decided I wanted taller gearing again and didn't feel like changing for '1-time' drag racing...

I'll be looking into that and other things, but really want to keep the bike stock with the CAT and all that crap; Maybe some day if/when the bike is the biggest part of the problem...

What a blast and all for $25!

Next time!
 

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Unless you're actually racing, reaction time is not a very big deal. The time does not start until you cross the beams, and you should be shooting for getting your 60' down as low as possible before you even start thinking about messing with reaction times. You could have a 0.01 RT, but your 2.1 60' is still going to kill your time.
 

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Yeah I hear you. I probably should have ignored the light and focused on ET but with my buddies in the other lane every time, it just had to be a race.

My best 60 was 1.983, but as you guessed, most were 2.1's...

I would think I could cut a half a second with current setup; like I said I don't feel like I ever really nailed it. ??
 

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Somewhat of an old thread, but bumping as it's a new season and interested to get some 750 action and time comparisons going on here.

Stock 2008 750 aside from an FMF exhaust w/o cat - no tune

RT 0.768
60 ft 1.99
300 ft 4.908
1/8th 7.185
MPH 107.76
1000 9.165
1/4 10.863
MPH 131.86

I keep all my slips and will compare them once I'm home and the runs are fresh in my head, I've even started plotting them in excel so I can compare the runs, what went well, what went bad. I'm at the point of almost bouncing off the rev limiter in 4th as I go through the traps but definitely not beneficial shifting to 5th for a few dozen feet/meters and losing that momentum from my comparisons.

Excuse the RT lol, I don't worry at all about RT or beating the other guy out of the gate, just want to focus 100% on my launch setup.
 
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rust0r
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