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Discussion Starter #1
Searched around but besides clutches I couldn't find much on what tends to wear out/go bad on these bikes as a result of hard launches/drag racing?

Basically I want to know to launch my bike, the wear items, and what could go wrong long term if I keep doing so.

Also if I missed a sticky or something regarding a launching tutorial/keeping the front down/clutch slipping techniques fire away and point me in the right direction please! :biggrin

Looking @oldgixxer specifically :p
 

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Please tell us what bike? It will vary depending on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Please tell us what bike? It will vary depending on the bike.
Right you are, 2006 GSX-R 1000

Mods include:

Akrapovic full system
Penske rear shock
Scotts Performance Steering dampener
Power Commander V
ASV levers with a shorty clutch
Galfer SS brake likes front and rear
Front forks rebuilt by racetech

pictures Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
 

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Ok, if you are stock height/wheelbase, it will be tough to get a good launch unless you really lean over the bars to keep the front end down. Start at 6,500RPM and adjust from there. As a road racer, I used the rear brake to keep the front end down as well, but I know @oldgixxer doesn't like that. Try to be full throttle by the 60' mark and then just ride it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, if you are stock height/wheelbase, it will be tough to get a good launch unless you really lean over the bars to keep the front end down. Start at 6,500RPM and adjust from there. As a road racer, I used the rear brake to keep the front end down as well, but I know @oldgixxer doesn't like that. Try to be full throttle by the 60' mark and then just ride it out.
Yes sir, stock wheelbase and stock height, im 6'3 and 210lbs, so keep my weight over the front?

Revs up to 6500 then slowly slip out the clutch and modulate throttle? Front wheel should be on the ground at all times or slight lift ok? I think I read in another post of yours where if you get too much front wheel lift to use the clutch instead of backing off the throttle to control the bike?

Never launched before, I commuted 14k miles last year on my 600 and just picked up the 1k 2 months ago..I figure its time I learn how to use it ahaha
 

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Yeah, don't back off the throttle. Try to get out of the clutch as quick as possible. And the front wheel is gonna come up about 6" or so, which is fine. More than that and you are gonna lose acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, don't back off the throttle. Try to get out of the clutch as quick as possible. And the front wheel is gonna come up about 6" or so, which is fine. More than that and you are gonna lose acceleration.
Thank you for the advice on the front wheel, any components that wear out that I should be concerned about from launches?

I guess I saw a few videos of the guys looping their bikes accelerating too hard and I was always afraid of that :dunno

When I let my clutch out right now as it is in first gear it feels like it slips a little then grabs suddenly?
 

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Clutch fibers and steels will wear out very quickly. Keep spares on hand.
 

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while not necessarily mandatory at the time it happens, i'd advise draining the oil, dropping the oil pan, and cleaning the oil strainer in the event of worn out fibers once he gets done racing. the stock strainers have a fine mesh and clutch material can clog it up and eventually starve the motor for oil, causing spun bearings at some point in the future. oil changes and proper clutch maintenance are the most commonly neglected by people new to drag racing aside from general chain neglect.

the best practice is to go to the track with fresh oil in the bike. also, maintain the clutch pack so you never burn up fibers and have to go through the added steps more often than necessary. you just need a set of digital calipers to measure fiber thicknesses after each outing to be sure they are within specs. after a couple times of doing that, you'll get a grasp on how hard you are on the clutch and be able to set a regular maintenance schedule for the clutch and then just drop the oil pan every 3rd outing or so.
 

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Drag the rear brake. I like to adjust the rear brake lever, tilting it far enough down that I'm just barely grazing it as my foot is at a comfortable angle. Not too far because you don't want to accidentally apply rear brakes while riding. Find that sweet spot and use it on launch. It will feel weird at first, go slow, get use to the pressure, you barely apply it, doesn't take much for it to pull the front down. I think this method is best until you master the clutch/throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Drag the rear brake. I like to adjust the rear brake lever, tilting it far enough down that I'm just barely grazing it as my foot is at a comfortable angle. Not too far because you don't want to accidentally apply rear brakes while riding. Find that sweet spot and use it on launch. It will feel weird at first, go slow, get use to the pressure, you barely apply it, doesn't take much for it to pull the front down. I think this method is best until you master the clutch/throttle.

@Blacknblue750 Thank you for the advice on dragging the front brake, I'll definitely try it out

Any advice on shifting/timing/what rpms?

Clutchless upshift after 1-2nd? Roll on the throttle smoothly and as quick as possible without bringing the wheel up or do you guys jam it open and keep the front down with your weight forward/is there a technique I don't know about? I'm all ears ahaha cheers ty for the advice again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
while not necessarily mandatory at the time it happens, i'd advise draining the oil, dropping the oil pan, and cleaning the oil strainer in the event of worn out fibers once he gets done racing. the stock strainers have a fine mesh and clutch material can clog it up and eventually starve the motor for oil, causing spun bearings at some point in the future. oil changes and proper clutch maintenance are the most commonly neglected by people new to drag racing aside from general chain neglect.

the best practice is to go to the track with fresh oil in the bike. also, maintain the clutch pack so you never burn up fibers and have to go through the added steps more often than necessary. you just need a set of digital calipers to measure fiber thicknesses after each outing to be sure they are within specs. after a couple times of doing that, you'll get a grasp on how hard you are on the clutch and be able to set a regular maintenance schedule for the clutch and then just drop the oil pan every 3rd outing or so.
@d3coy @oldgixxer I've seen your guys posts on here before and It was the two of you that I wanted to ask as well, any advice on proper shifting technique/rpms/clutchless?

I want to learn how to do all of this without any quickshifter/traction aids/electronics

So clutch all the way out before the 60 foot, any advice on when/best way to shift? RPMS, dragging brake, minimizing wheeling while maximizing acceleration?

Clutchless upshift after the 1-2nd? quick cut off the power, slide into next gear then roll on smooth? Or are you guys more abrupt on the throttle? You jam it open as quick as you can without bringing up the front wheel too fast or you roll on as smooth as possible after practicing? I saw that bmw s1000rr video vs the veyron and that guys shifts were absolutely impeccable, minimal front wheel rise and maximum/no acceleration loss I'd love it if you guys could help point me in the right direction on how to get my technique to that point with your experience, cheers and thanks again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Clutch fibers and steels will wear out very quickly. Keep spares on hand.

@Anthony D
ty for the heads up man, anything else I should be worried about besides the chain/sprockets/tires? Long term engine damage?

Any advice on best shifting technique/practices for maximum acceleration with minimal wheel rise? What RPMS/drag rear brake/clutch/no clutch/when to clutch or not/body positioning/throttle technique etc?

Thank you in advance man I appreciate the insight! :cheers
 

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@Anthony D
ty for the heads up man, anything else I should be worried about besides the chain/sprockets/tires? Long term engine damage?

Any advice on best shifting technique/practices for maximum acceleration with minimal wheel rise? What RPMS/drag rear brake/clutch/no clutch/when to clutch or not/body positioning/throttle technique etc?

Thank you in advance man I appreciate the insight! :cheers
Well, obviously your motor will be taking more abuse with every run down the strip. However, there are plenty of drag bikes out there with hundreds of passes that still run fine.

The best shifting practice is to shift immediately after your bike makes peak power, which you will need a dyno chart for. If you aren't that serious, just shift at redline.

Most real fast drag racers use an airshifter so that they can keep their legs out as balance on the launch and not have to worry about pulling their left leg up for the 1-2 shift. A quickshifter is another option, and footshifting is a fine choice if you don't want to invest the money in one of the other options.

Launch at 6,500RPM, and see how it goes. Try to get out of the clutch as soon as possible. You might need to adjust your launch RPM either up or down, depending on how the bike reacts.

On the launch, get your body over the tank and bars as much as you can, and once you are wide open and not worried about the front end lifting up, slide back in the seat and tuck in as much as you can.

That is all I can tell you through the internet really, the rest you will have to figure out for yourself with every trip down the strip.
 

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@d3coy @oldgixxer I've seen your guys posts on here before and It was the two of you that I wanted to ask as well, any advice on proper shifting technique/rpms/clutchless?

I want to learn how to do all of this without any quickshifter/traction aids/electronics

So clutch all the way out before the 60 foot, any advice on when/best way to shift? RPMS, dragging brake, minimizing wheeling while maximizing acceleration?

Clutchless upshift after the 1-2nd? quick cut off the power, slide into next gear then roll on smooth? Or are you guys more abrupt on the throttle? You jam it open as quick as you can without bringing up the front wheel too fast or you roll on as smooth as possible after practicing? I saw that bmw s1000rr video vs the veyron and that guys shifts were absolutely impeccable, minimal front wheel rise and maximum/no acceleration loss I'd love it if you guys could help point me in the right direction on how to get my technique to that point with your experience, cheers and thanks again :)
clutchless upshifting as a technique is simple: 1-Wide open throttle, 2-close throttle completely to unload the transmission briefly and shift at the same time, 3-wack it wide open as fast as possible. in practice it can be difficult to master the timing for every shift at first. sidenote: i believe S1000RR's come from the factory with engine-kill quick shifters.

no drag racer drags the rear brake during a launch, even on short wheelbase bikes. it's much simpler to control a wheelie on a short bike with the clutch and throttle. as long as you have a good chassis setup, clutch setup, and not too aggressively geared (sprockets), launching shouldn't be much of a chore once the timing becomes muscle memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
clutchless upshifting as a technique is simple: 1-Wide open throttle, 2-close throttle completely to unload the transmission briefly and shift at the same time, 3-wack it wide open as fast as possible. in practice it can be difficult to master the timing for every shift at first. sidenote: i believe S1000RR's come from the factory with engine-kill quick shifters.

no drag racer drags the rear brake during a launch, even on short wheelbase bikes. it's much simpler to control a wheelie on a short bike with the clutch and throttle. as long as you have a good chassis setup, clutch setup, and not too aggressively geared (sprockets), launching shouldn't be much of a chore once the timing becomes muscle memory.
I'm keeping my weight forward and over the tank, (weigh 205) but the front still floats up every time I open it wide in 1st/2nd. Extremely stupid question I know, but the goal is to find that balance point on throttle opening that allows you to maximize acceleration, while keeping the front relatively close to the ground/skimming? So basically don't just whack the throttle WFO open? Smoothy roll on as quick as possible while feeding out the clutch while preventing wheelie? I want to get this down without modifying my bikes height/swingarm length etc. Any advice you have for me is greatly appreciated @d3coy

Also on a side note, with the akra full titanium system you need to remove the headers completely to drop the pan? Will this clutch kit do? Suzuki Genuine Complete Clutch Kit 2005 2006 GSX R1000 GSXR 1000 21400 36860 | eBay
 

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The stock gsxr1000 05-06 has a lock up clutch, a ramp in the clutch assembly that tries to apply clutch pack tight very quickly.
I had an 06, it was a mother to get any slip off the line.
They make an aftermarket assembly that takes away the ramping mechanism.

Look at APE racing, I believe you can get more information there.
Its part number 16 from the list it's a ramping cam.
 

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You can teach a slow rider to be fast pretty easily. Step one is not downgrading the clutch.
 

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clutchless upshifting as a technique is simple: 1-Wide open throttle, 2-close throttle completely to unload the transmission briefly and shift at the same time, 3-wack it wide open as fast as possible. in practice it can be difficult to master the timing for every shift at first. sidenote: i believe S1000RR's come from the factory with engine-kill quick shifters.

no drag racer drags the rear brake during a launch, even on short wheelbase bikes. it's much simpler to control a wheelie on a short bike with the clutch and throttle. as long as you have a good chassis setup, clutch setup, and not too aggressively geared (sprockets), launching shouldn't be much of a chore once the timing becomes muscle memory.
OH, I beg to differ a bit here!
My K5 Liter bike is just about the same thing.
You state 'close throttle completely when shifting without the clutch?
Why completely?
I find when I'm 'getting on it', I just slightly 'blimp' the throttle a bit- and it shifts fine. Without slamming it closed.
quiclly 'blipping it' a bit 'unloads' the transmission plenty to easily shift w/o the clutch. Try it, you'll see.

Also, if I read the OP's post right, he mentions clutchless AFTER 2nd gear? YOu only really need the clutch when you're stopped, to take off, launch, easy, what ever.
You can shift into every gear without the clutch- constant mesh trans.
 

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Was that in reference to what I posted?
APE knows a few things about racing.
If you're running crazy horse power, you're probably not using stock clutch to start with. :cheers
 
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