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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went through 3 bulbs last night. They ran fine when the bike was on (acc) and burnt within seconds when the bike was at idle.

I checked the bulb connector with a MultiMeter and it read 12.5V while on and not running. I started the bike and it shot up to about 17.5-18V. This is the extent of my troubleshooting, since I'm workin in pitch black conditions, with winds upwards of 45mph, and temps in mid-low 40s, and no garage. :cheers

What would cause this?

Imma check my Stator and Rectifier on Friday when I'm off and have light to work with. Is there a way to check the rectifier without propping up the tank and removing the air box?

Thanks in Advance:punk
 

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I believe you're on the right track, I'm not too familiar with the electonics on these bikes yet to give you specifics, but 18 volts is real hard on a bulb designed to run off 13.6
 

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First, check your connections to the battery. The battery acts as a voltage stabilizer and if a good battery is in the system the voltage shouldn't be able to get that high. (This is why you should never run the bike without the battery connected.)

If the battery and connections are good, then the regulator may be fried. The regulator is built in with the rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
First, check your connections to the battery. The battery acts as a voltage stabilizer and if a good battery is in the system the voltage shouldn't be able to get that high. (This is why you should never run the bike without the battery connected.)

If the battery and connections are good, then the regulator may be fried. The regulator is built in with the rectifier.
Battery connections are nice and tight.

I don't know the difference between a regulator and a rectifier. I do know that it's integrated and refered to regulator/rectifier. I just got lazy and called the whole system rectifier. :lol I still need to do a Diode test and I've got my Service Manual handy. Thanks:cheers

Edit: incase I do need a Regulator/Rectifier, where can I purchase one instead if giving up a kidney at the dealership. Ebay has a few used ones as well.
 

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Battery connections are nice and tight.

I don't know the difference between a regulator and a rectifier. I do know that it's integrated and refered to regulator/rectifier. I just got lazy and called the whole system rectifier. :lol I still need to do a Diode test and I've got my Service Manual handy. Thanks:cheers

Edit: incase I do need a Regulator/Rectifier, where can I purchase one instead if giving up a kidney at the dealership. Ebay has a few used ones as well.

Sounds definitely like a regulator issue. Refer to the service manual for voltage range. I think 15.5V is about maximum. Don't run it like that for too long as it will fry your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced the regulator/rectifier today. Diode test on the bad reg/rec was above normal. All is as it should be.

FYI: Part #32800-21H00
$143.99 @ OneidaSuzuki.com (cheapest i found) Dealer wanted $198, lol
 

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I replaced the blown headlight bulb three months ago and I went to checked it today it's blown again.Could be the same problem?OP sorry for threadjacking.
 

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What you mean under 'charging system'?
 

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rectifier and regulator is a common problem with these damn bikes. i had to replace mine after 120miles on the bike.
 

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It didn't start on the morning now runs just fine.The rectifier is really hot though.I'm about to order one.
 

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It is a rectifier and regulator in one.

It gets hot for a number of reasons. The most heat is generated when the battery is fully charged and there is minimal power draw from the electrical system.

The reason for that is the rectifier/regulator is a shunt type. It regulates the output voltage and therefore the charging current by shunting or short circuiting the the excess current from the stator output. The more it has to shunt the hotter it gets.

If the battery voltage is 17V then it is not regulating. The battery will not survive long like that either.
 

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The diode test can give a false positive result.

It is a static test and does not and cannot fully confirm correct rectifier and regulator function.

That is why there is dynamic tests for it also, i.e with the engine running.

It is still possible to have a phase (or 2) not charging even if the stator reads fine on AC output. A faulty rec/reg could have this condition but still charge.

The test for this, and it is not in the manual, is to check the current draw on all three phases of the stator with a current clamp or AC amp meter and preferably check the rec/reg output current pulses to make sure they line up with the stator cuurent output.
 
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