[Tattoo.guru]

Im missing one bolt on the header flange and need to know bolt size. Can find the part number on the Suzuki parts web page but don’t want to pay 8-12 bucks for one bolt with shipping when can go to hardware store to get one if I can find the right size. K6 GSXR 600. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[SparkyMJ]

For what it's worth, when I got my K4 used, the header bolts were all rusted out and crusty, and quite hard to unscrew. I bought all 8 new bolts OEM, and yeah it was a lot of money. But I rest easy knowing that the bolts holding basically the hottest part of the engine on are the right spec.

I am not sure if these exhaust bolts are something special, or coated special, or a certain type of steel that can handle those extreme temperature gradients or whatever, but I didn't want to find out some random bolts I got weren't good enough, and then have stripped/galled/seized bolts in my cylinder head.

Does potentially having stripped/galled/seized bolts in your cylinder head seem worth saving the $20? You could probably get some random black oxide bolt and make it work and it would probably be fine, but this was one instance where I didn't want to experiment.

Sounds like you just need one bolt. I would advise you just buy the factory one from a legit seller, and if you need any other factory bolts or parts, just order those too while you're at it. Factory bolts are always pricey, but there is a lot of coatings, metallurgy, grade/ratings, and tolerances baked into those bolts. It's hard to stomach paying that much for a bolt, but it's usually not just a bolt.

-Mike

 

[Tattoo.guru]

For what it's worth, when I got my K4 used, the header bolts were all rusted out and crusty, and quite hard to unscrew. I bought all 8 new bolts OEM, and yeah it was a lot of money. But I rest easy knowing that the bolts holding basically the hottest part of the engine on are the right spec.

I am not sure if these exhaust bolts are something special, or coated special, or a certain type of steel that can handle those extreme temperature gradients or whatever, but I didn't want to find out some random bolts I got weren't good enough, and then have stripped/galled/seized bolts in my cylinder head.

Does potentially having stripped/galled/seized bolts in your cylinder head seem worth saving the $20? You could probably get some random black oxide bolt and make it work and it would probably be fine, but this was one instance where I didn't want to experiment.

Sounds like you just need one bolt. I would advise you just buy the factory one from a legit seller, and if you need any other factory bolts or parts, just order those too while you're at it. Factory bolts are always pricey, but there is a lot of coatings, metallurgy, grade/ratings, and tolerances baked into those bolts. It's hard to stomach paying that much for a bolt, but it's usually not just a bolt.

-Mike

Good point mike. Thanks. I honestly was about to just bite bullet and get oem ones and go ahead and replace all 8 like u said too. And gaskets along with em. Thanks for the advice. I love this forum. So many great ppl here.

 

[SparkyMJ]

Right on man, I think that's a good choice there. The new gaskets will suit the bike well too.

I did that on mine because the previous owner put a "full exhaust" on the bike and it was terrible, so I got a nice condition used OEM header, new bolts and gaskets, cleaned and polished my new header, and got a fresh Yoshi can, and it looks factory fresh and sounds perfect. You'll be happy you went with factory parts!

Also, don't forget the re-torque of the header bolts after ~600 miles, as per the manual. It's a pain to get in there, but they do tighten up a hair more once the gaskets get hot and cold and stuff, and those bolts are only like 16lb/ft, not much.

Hope this helps,

-Mike

 

[TwistedMister]

stick with the OEM, use a lil' anti seize on it.. whats $7 a half a loaf of bread these days?

 

[BillV]

There are three variants: 07130-08253, the "original" with an olive drab finish, 07130-0825A with a cad finish, and 07130-0825B with a black finish. It's a M8x1.25x25 hex socket screw of 10.9 grade (about the same as grade 8). I see all three for around $3 from online dealers like them. Your local dealer should charge the same with no shipping charges. The screws like to stick in the head and can break during removal. This may be why Suzuki has played with the finish. I like the idea of a very thin coating of anti seize, perhaps applied and then wiped nearly off by hand. Some low strength Loctite on top of that may help. Substituting stainless screws may also improve things.

I see one German ebay seller listing the 07130-08253 at an outrageous price and, by counting threads, it actually has a 35 mm or longer length. So it's not that part.

 

[Tattoo.guru]

Right on man, I think that's a good choice there. The new gaskets will suit the bike well too.

I did that on mine because the previous owner put a "full exhaust" on the bike and it was terrible, so I got a nice condition used OEM header, new bolts and gaskets, cleaned and polished my new header, and got a fresh Yoshi can, and it looks factory fresh and sounds perfect. You'll be happy you went with factory parts!

Also, don't forget the re-torque of the header bolts after ~600 miles, as per the manual. It's a pain to get in there, but they do tighten up a hair more once the gaskets get hot and cold and stuff, and those bolts are only like 16lb/ft, not much.

Hope this helps,

-Mike

Yes for sure. Def. Thanks for the reminder though too. These look like aftermarket headers and like u said “full exhaust” and the pipe looks like it could be one the Hindle ones but I’m unsure as to there being no badges etc. just figured since ima get new bolts might well get four new gaskets and clean and seat everything really well while I’m in there too. You’re the best. Appreciate all the advice man