Buggi,
I don't have a factory shop manual yet so all I can do is recommend that you contact the guy who posted the Manual Tensioner installation thread. Or, you could P.M. him.
The Manual is going to be high on your things to buy list, do it!
There is a guy who posts' under the handle - bugman - . There is a link on one of his alternate sites for an outfit offering the manuals for around $75.00 US.
I think this will get you there Http://bugman.81x.com or, Http://bugman2.81x.com.
FWIW
While the components have changed significantly over the years the theory and application of a component remains/operates the same way.
In my experience the old 1966/1967 Honda 305's and later Honda 350/450 models differed only in a 'slipper shoe' being added to the 350/450. The slipper is basically a phenelic (Old Style) or a teflon coated metal shoe that keeps the chain as it from flopping around as it stretches over time. The ones on my old Suzuki 750's, 1100's, and 1150 models were coated versions till an aftermarket and factory change in which the entire slipper shoe/guide was non-metallic. Early versions of these were often shreded because owners thought they could adjust the tension at any pistion position at any part of the crank/cam rotation cycle.
When in reality it was TDC on compression stroke of #1 piston.
Again, for what it's worth.
On the old (70's 80's, early 90's) Jap bikes you could remove the manual cam chain adjuster by removing from 4 to 6 bolts that attached the camchain tensioner plate/housing to the rear center of the cylinder head, after retracting and locking the tension rod/spring to the rear at TDC #1 piston on compression stroke. While anything is possible, if the guide itself wasn't attached to the tensioner housing you had to pull the engine in most case -no vertical room over the engine studs - to do a partial tear down. Things may have changed...
You might also want to ask -get the manual- if the auto tensioner will stay in one piece when you remove it. I don't know if there are circlips, etc... to keep the tensioner together after you pull it off.
If your engine isn't sounding like there is a very loose chain -you can hear it-, don't rip into it just yet. If ithe bike hasn't been severely thrashed wait till the 20,000 mile check-up and do the swap before you adjust the valves.
Good Luck
Keep us posted on results.
Please send me a large box full of those gorgeous women you have stashed over there. Been a long time since I traveled thru Denmark & Sweden. sigh
later.
I don't have a factory shop manual yet so all I can do is recommend that you contact the guy who posted the Manual Tensioner installation thread. Or, you could P.M. him.
The Manual is going to be high on your things to buy list, do it!
There is a guy who posts' under the handle - bugman - . There is a link on one of his alternate sites for an outfit offering the manuals for around $75.00 US.
I think this will get you there Http://bugman.81x.com or, Http://bugman2.81x.com.
FWIW
While the components have changed significantly over the years the theory and application of a component remains/operates the same way.
In my experience the old 1966/1967 Honda 305's and later Honda 350/450 models differed only in a 'slipper shoe' being added to the 350/450. The slipper is basically a phenelic (Old Style) or a teflon coated metal shoe that keeps the chain as it from flopping around as it stretches over time. The ones on my old Suzuki 750's, 1100's, and 1150 models were coated versions till an aftermarket and factory change in which the entire slipper shoe/guide was non-metallic. Early versions of these were often shreded because owners thought they could adjust the tension at any pistion position at any part of the crank/cam rotation cycle.
When in reality it was TDC on compression stroke of #1 piston.
Again, for what it's worth.
On the old (70's 80's, early 90's) Jap bikes you could remove the manual cam chain adjuster by removing from 4 to 6 bolts that attached the camchain tensioner plate/housing to the rear center of the cylinder head, after retracting and locking the tension rod/spring to the rear at TDC #1 piston on compression stroke. While anything is possible, if the guide itself wasn't attached to the tensioner housing you had to pull the engine in most case -no vertical room over the engine studs - to do a partial tear down. Things may have changed...
You might also want to ask -get the manual- if the auto tensioner will stay in one piece when you remove it. I don't know if there are circlips, etc... to keep the tensioner together after you pull it off.
If your engine isn't sounding like there is a very loose chain -you can hear it-, don't rip into it just yet. If ithe bike hasn't been severely thrashed wait till the 20,000 mile check-up and do the swap before you adjust the valves.
Good Luck
Keep us posted on results.
Please send me a large box full of those gorgeous women you have stashed over there. Been a long time since I traveled thru Denmark & Sweden. sigh
later.