Hi all I've just bought a gsxr1000 k7 that's been sat for 3 years put a battery on it and it just turns over no spluttering back fire etc just turns over when I put the ignition on I can't hear the fuel pump prime I can hear the relay for a second or 2 but not the pump before I go and buy a pump is there anything I should check ie something stopping the pump from priming thanks all
Gsxr1000 k7 wont start
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Why Is your first inclination to buy a new pump? Contrary to popular opinion in the motorcycle world, throwing parts at a problem is not a particularly good way of solving problems. What’re you going to do if you put in a new pump and it still doesn’t work?
You need to diagnose the problem, and that involves testing things. Hook the pump up to a 12v source and see if it runs. That will tell you right away if your pump is bad or not.
You need to diagnose the problem, and that involves testing things. Hook the pump up to a 12v source and see if it runs. That will tell you right away if your pump is bad or not.
First, you need to download a service manual. There's a wiring diagram at the back that will be invaluable. The pics on 9-7 will also help in locating things. Have you checked that the fuses are all OK? Next, you say you can hear "the relay". Which relay? We need to know exactly which one. Yours most likely is an immobilizer model. There's an associated lamp in the cluster that flashes when the ignition is turned on. There's information about it in the manual and you can see it flashing in various Youtube videos. You need to confirm that it's working correctly. There are two connectors beneath the seat, a white six position and a black eight position. Measure the voltage at the O/G lead on the white connector (with the ignition turned on). It should be at battery voltage. It will tell you if the ECM is getting power. Then measure the voltage on the R lead on the black connector. It should be 5 V. The ECM isn't powering on if not. Then find the fuel pump relay. It provides power to the fuel pump. You can unhook it from the battery bulkhead so that you can measure voltages at the relay connector while it's connected to the relay. The R/Bl should always be at battery voltage. The O/W should be at battery voltage when the ignition is on. The Y/R is the power from the relay to the pump, so it will be at battery voltage when the pump is supposed to run. The Y/B runs to the ECM. It will go to battery voltage unless the ECM pulls it low, causing the relay to turn on & send power to the pump. So its voltage will vary depending on what's going one. Immobilizer models also have a single position and a four position connector for an external alarm. You can see them in the lower right corner of the E2/E19/E24 wiring diagram. All leads to them are black. There should be a jumper on the four position if there's no external alarm. The bike won't run without the jumper.
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Have a look in the tank, what does the fuel pump look like ?
Hi all checked the relay and its working I've got power to the pump so I've took the pump out and it's full of rust etc connected it to some power and got nothing so the pump is shot also inside the tank is pretty bad so need to clean that out somehow my last question is I have a fi light on got the code up and it's c46 I've read on here to cut a certain wire is that a good thing to do ?
C46 is associated with the EXCVA system. If yours has been removed or otherwise disabled you need to remove pin 5 on the black connector and plug the void. Yoshimura shows how to do that on pages 4 & 5 here. The paper clip tool works well. They don't mention plugging the void and several here have ended up with corroded/broken ECM pins due to moisture. Cutting the wire is poor form.
P.S. In re-reading the Yoshimura instructions I see that they show how to make the tool but not what to do with it (duh!). Once you get the orange cover off, you can access the retaining tangs for the contacts. The tool is used to bend them out of the way to unlock the contact. I'm not sure on this at the moment but I think the tang is accessed through the small holes that the pins on the backside of the orange cover fit into. I somewhere have a diagram showing that in detail.
P.S. In re-reading the Yoshimura instructions I see that they show how to make the tool but not what to do with it (duh!). Once you get the orange cover off, you can access the retaining tangs for the contacts. The tool is used to bend them out of the way to unlock the contact. I'm not sure on this at the moment but I think the tang is accessed through the small holes that the pins on the backside of the orange cover fit into. I somewhere have a diagram showing that in detail.
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Rusty fuel tank, This is what "the water in" e10 fuel does.
I have used this Urethane coating ( in Aus ) with good results. Be careful to plug or clear breather lines before coating dries. Here.
Home - KBS Coatings
www.kbs-coatings.com.au
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