is there a power commander or bazzaz unit on the bike?
GSXR Wiring Harness Issues?
I have a k7 gsxr 600. So one day im riding and my bike randomly cuts off. Apparently my ecu was fried so I got a new one, bike turned over once and worked, but wouldnt turn back on after it was turned off. Now, the bike wont completely turn over and my fuel pump isnt priming. Me and my buddy have used our multimeter and circuit tester everywhere and the bike seems fine. Anybody have any idea of where to go from here? I replaced my battery and rectifier after the wires were fucked (for the r/r). My dash doesnt come on either, seems completely dead but I get the indicator lights, hi and low beam dont work either. Ive done all I can think, I dont want to take it to a shop but im out of options lol.
Could my issue be the entire wiring harness? Is that common? I cant find a single thread where someone has had my issues.
Could my issue be the entire wiring harness? Is that common? I cant find a single thread where someone has had my issues.
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Just an update, checking the continuity of the blue wire that goes into the pump is good, the wire that it plugs in to however, I get no feedback. What could the issue be? From my understanding the fuel pump itself is fine, so is the battery, the rectifier and stator. Headlights and tach still dont come/cycle even tho everything seems fine, any thoughts or ideas, im really lost here lol. Again if anyone needs my snapchat or something to show more details feel free to message me.
trace that dead wire until you find it active, do you know how to perform leak tests, or dead ground test, continuity test? all simple with multi meter
Continuity tests yes but not the other two.trace that dead wire until you find it active, do you know how to perform leak tests, or dead ground test, continuity test? all simple with multi meter
leak test, dead ground test, continuity test, all the same, however a break test is somewhat different, I wire can have a partial break in it, or a full break, a full break would equate to a continuity test, then you have a break in a wire that's grounding out on metal, maybe a partial break, partial ground out, then some behave intermittent
I have a toaster that has one side of the lead broken, dead break, but I pull the toaster along the wall sothe lead is a 90 right off the plug, the break is right at the plug like someone got as close to the plug as possible and hit it with a razor clean through, however the wire protrudes just a smidge o n both ends, cuz I am lazy I just move the wire so its lined up then put tension on it so contact is made, long as I dont move toaster it works day in day out..
it didn't start out a clean break, started out where it didn't work at all and no visible break, but I had noticed at a certain angle it would work, then one day it sparked bad and cut clean, I just moved it around till it made contact and then pulled onthelead till it stayed in place and been using it that way since.. too lazy to get a simple 2 prong plug at home depot for $2.89 and fix it I guess? for the life of me I have no idea how it happened, did I nick it with a knife? was it defective?
so wires can have a complete break in them and the insulation can be in tact, toaster did this, something made it arc and the heat burned through the insulation and made a clean cut.. they can also chaff insulation creating a ground out, leak, then obviously they canbreak clean through insulation and all, sometimes the raw end grounds out or even touched something else and activates it, rarer but known to happen..
so you have to test these leads for the various situations, first do a continuity test, see if its carrying any juice or has a clean break in it.. then on to the others..
a video runs through continuity in a simple manner
I have a toaster that has one side of the lead broken, dead break, but I pull the toaster along the wall sothe lead is a 90 right off the plug, the break is right at the plug like someone got as close to the plug as possible and hit it with a razor clean through, however the wire protrudes just a smidge o n both ends, cuz I am lazy I just move the wire so its lined up then put tension on it so contact is made, long as I dont move toaster it works day in day out..
it didn't start out a clean break, started out where it didn't work at all and no visible break, but I had noticed at a certain angle it would work, then one day it sparked bad and cut clean, I just moved it around till it made contact and then pulled onthelead till it stayed in place and been using it that way since.. too lazy to get a simple 2 prong plug at home depot for $2.89 and fix it I guess? for the life of me I have no idea how it happened, did I nick it with a knife? was it defective?
so wires can have a complete break in them and the insulation can be in tact, toaster did this, something made it arc and the heat burned through the insulation and made a clean cut.. they can also chaff insulation creating a ground out, leak, then obviously they canbreak clean through insulation and all, sometimes the raw end grounds out or even touched something else and activates it, rarer but known to happen..
so you have to test these leads for the various situations, first do a continuity test, see if its carrying any juice or has a clean break in it.. then on to the others..
a video runs through continuity in a simple manner
you have isolated the wire to where the signal is dead, now you need to trace it back to find where its live again, somewhere in the signal, could be a bad pin in a plug, could be a break in the wire whatever, so you need the schematic its inthe service manual or maybe someone has a nice large color one?
find where that wire ends up, at a connector plug, or a switch where ever then test the wire at each end for continuity or a break or ground out..
pretty simple once you locate the other end and keep going backwards until you find a live signal, then you know form there forwards is where the break or whatever will be, again may be a broken pin in a connector plug, maybe be a bad switch or sensor, maybe be chaffed or broken wire..
you must test teh circuit to see what it's doing? is it leaking, completely dead? and wiggle the wire or harness around as well when you do test, could bea toaster issue?
you will find and fix it
find where that wire ends up, at a connector plug, or a switch where ever then test the wire at each end for continuity or a break or ground out..
pretty simple once you locate the other end and keep going backwards until you find a live signal, then you know form there forwards is where the break or whatever will be, again may be a broken pin in a connector plug, maybe be a bad switch or sensor, maybe be chaffed or broken wire..
you must test teh circuit to see what it's doing? is it leaking, completely dead? and wiggle the wire or harness around as well when you do test, could bea toaster issue?
you will find and fix it
then there is the tool you can use to find exactly where the break is..
simple continuity test in its simplest form.. every multimeter has a continuity test on it, it beeps like this when its good, there are ways to test partial breaks using ohms and other testers
simple continuity test in its simplest form.. every multimeter has a continuity test on it, it beeps like this when its good, there are ways to test partial breaks using ohms and other testers
shoutout to you and for all your posts, much love man thanks for the help, gonna see what I can determinethen there is the tool you can use to find exactly where the break is..
simple continuity test in its simplest form.. every multimeter has a continuity test on it, it beeps like this when its good, there are ways to test partial breaks using ohms and other testers
Update, no power to the fuel pump female connector, think the pump itself is fine. Do I need to replace the entire harness? That might explain no power to the pump or tach. Dont know what to do anymore.
you need to download the service manual so you can do pinout research, determine which pump lead is for the 12 volt power supply to run the pump, keep tracing it backwards to find out where its losing juice, maybe be a pin in the connectors, chaffed or broken wire, gotta trace it..
also once you determine which pump leads are + and - you can connect a 12 volt power supply to run pump check if its faulty.. easy
2 large alligator clips clamped to the battery + - supply then 2 smaller alligator clips to connect to the pump + - leads works great..
all kinds of youtube videos show you how to perform wire break tests so forth, but you must trace it back to where it does have power then figure out why its not making it to the pump, you check fuel pump fuse?
also service manual will have a troubleshooting section you lookup by symptoms
look up like "#23. battery has 12 volts, key on, fuel pump does not prime" then it walks you through in an organized manner to determine where the fault is..
also once you determine which pump leads are + and - you can connect a 12 volt power supply to run pump check if its faulty.. easy
2 large alligator clips clamped to the battery + - supply then 2 smaller alligator clips to connect to the pump + - leads works great..
all kinds of youtube videos show you how to perform wire break tests so forth, but you must trace it back to where it does have power then figure out why its not making it to the pump, you check fuel pump fuse?
also service manual will have a troubleshooting section you lookup by symptoms
look up like "#23. battery has 12 volts, key on, fuel pump does not prime" then it walks you through in an organized manner to determine where the fault is..
Did you replace the rectifier before installing the new ecu? or after installing the new ecu?Update, no power to the fuel pump female connector, think the pump itself is fine. Do I need to replace the entire harness? That might explain no power to the pump or tach. Dont know what to do anymore.
Burnt wires at the rectifier often indicate over voltage. You may have fried another ecu.
You said your lights aren't working. Check the light bulbs. If they are both blown, then it is
very likely you had over voltage.
yes I did replace after installing, does the over voltage explain the no power to the fuel pump or tach, if so does that warrant a new harness?Did you replace the rectifier before installing the new ecu? or after installing the new ecu?
Burnt wires at the rectifier often indicate over voltage. You may have fried another ecu.
You said your lights aren't working. Check the light bulbs. If they are both blown, then it is
very likely you had over voltage.
new harness, bike still wont turn over.
So in the Workshop Manual, on page 418, Electrical System, Have you checked every system in this order ?
Fuses need to be checked with a multimeter, Relays need to be checked with good 12.4v battery.
Record each test in order and make a list.
Replacing the wiring harness, could have introduced another problem into your electrical system, did you test every wire in the new harness for continuity (around 50) ? Of-course this test (wiring harness) is one of the last in your list.
Any workshop you take your bike to will do this same procedure. At least if you take the mechanic your list, he will know what you tried.
Page 520 is your wiring diagram, study it and learn every wire and color.
www.manualslib.com
Fuses need to be checked with a multimeter, Relays need to be checked with good 12.4v battery.
Record each test in order and make a list.
Replacing the wiring harness, could have introduced another problem into your electrical system, did you test every wire in the new harness for continuity (around 50) ? Of-course this test (wiring harness) is one of the last in your list.
Any workshop you take your bike to will do this same procedure. At least if you take the mechanic your list, he will know what you tried.
Page 520 is your wiring diagram, study it and learn every wire and color.
SUZUKI GSX-R750 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download
View and Download Suzuki GSX-R750 service manual online. GSX-R750 motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: Gsx-r600 2006, Gsx-r600 2007, 2007 gsxr 600, 2006 gsxr 600.
www.manualslib.com
Instrument cluster still doesnt cycle, so I dont even know what to look for code wise, only info I get is hibeams, turn signals n hazards. Brake lights work, not headlights. Might take the bike into a shop cause im outta ideas
Does the horn work? Assuming it does, unplug the connector to the cluster and look for the pins associated with a R/Bl and an O/G lead. The R/Bl should always be at battery voltage and the O/G should be zero when the ignition is off and battery voltage when the ignition is on. Report back here with the results. The cluster should cycle when the O/G turns on. If it doesn't come on but the horn works, there's probably a bad contact at the big connector with a shroud inside the left front cowling. See 8-6 in the service manual. The B/W ground ought to be OK if anything electrical in the front end works.
I bought an 06 yesterday with 95% of the same symptoms. No start no gauges no power. Once I manipulated the ignition switch harness the fuel pump primed and it started. Still no gauges or headlights but I'm thinking that over time turning the handlebars constantly fatigues that harness.
Find the above mentioned connector and check the contacts. In later years the portion of the front harness that runs to the active damper is affected by handlebar movement. But everything else should be unaffected.
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