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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to drop my 1216cc ('90 1127 cases oil cooled) engine in a 750 chassis or smaller. The question is what will it bolt into, i have seen 7/11 swaps so i assume that 89-92 gsxr 750's would work? What about the 90-92 600cc's will it fit in those or any other GSXR chassis? I have a compete dyna ignition system so i do not care about the CDI on the "new home for the motor" are their any other things that need to be changed to do the 7/11, or 6/11 swaps?? thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes i did already. I am confused as to why he has chassis data up to '95 750's when he says water and oil coolers don't swap well?????? I have a line on a '92 750 but its a water bike, don't know if it will work??????
 

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86-92 any motor 7-11-900 bandit 1200 bandit will fit, 93 or newer is water cooled,so 93-98 any motor also..hope this helps..

Just My 0.02
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by e-racer:
86-92 any motor 7-11-900 bandit 1200 bandit will fit, 93 or newer is water cooled,so 93-98 any motor also..hope this helps..

Just My 0.02
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">92 GSXRS 750 are water coolers aren't they???????
 

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92 750s and 1100s were still oil-cooled in the US but watercooled in the rest of the world (including Canada I believe). US got the watercooled 750 and 1100 starting in 93. The 92 600 was watercooled, however.

Matt
 

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PM Oldgixxer........He has a 600 frame with Big Block project.....

He knows his sheezit!
 

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Any 750 chassis from 85-87 and 88-92 (US) will take the Air/Oil Cooled engines From a 1100 GSXR (86-88 1052 or 89-92 1127) 1100 Katana 88-92 or Bandit 1200.

The reason Patrick has the Water Pumper info is cause thay can do 7-11's too. 93-95 750's and 92-93 600's can take the 93-98 GSXR1100 engines.

As long as you stay in these Guidelines it is a bolt in.

People have done 4-11's and 4-7's too.

Bones
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Bones, or z1bigtom, I got a '91 750 chassis not (not in my garage yet) that my 1216cc motor is gonna go in, am i gonna have trouble with the mid side fairing body mount that goes on the head??? I'm pretty sure the 750 cylinder is shorter so that would misplace that mount won't it??? i also have a top end oiler that goes there that the stock 1100 panels bolt right onto on my 1100 frame. Any insight would be appreciated!
 

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The 750 panels are definitely shorter (and have a different location for the head-mount) than the 1100 mids. The trouble is, they bolt up to the upper in a different location, so your mids hafta match whatever upper you're planning on using... regardless of how well they do or don't line up with the head. I don't have a top-end oiler in mine, but it shouldn't be much more difficult for you to do what I did (I'm using the 1100 chassis, but the 750 mids and uppers).



apologies for the blurry pic, but you get the idea... just use a strap of aluminum flatbar, mangle it as necessary, then drill holes to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm using a complete ,92 750, just dropping the 750 motor out and dropping mine in, so the only hangup will be just making a bracket (hack as neccesary!) for each side??? I got a 1100 pipe, and all dyna ignition so does that sound like I'm all good for parts???

Any idea if i can use the 750 cable clutch to my 1100 clutch pushrod, i really don't like the hydraulic, and i don't have the hydralic guts anymore???

Thanks!
 

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You'd need the clutch-cover and clutch "top-plate" from a 750 to be able to do that... maybe more internal bits, I dunno... it's a popular mod, but I've never done it as I *like* my hydraulic. I think it's actually easier to use the setup from the 600 katana as it doesn't require changing anything that involves an oil-change... someone here should know the nitty-gritty on clutch-actuator swaps
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 750 i got is 100% complete and running, so i should have the parts i need then??? Whats with the Kat swap your talking about? does the Kat have the cable actuator on the sprocket cover?? I know my FZR had the cable actuator on the sprocket side, and it ran the pushrod through the motor, i thought that was how the 750's were??? I have never had a 750, only 1100's so i have know idea how the gsxr 750 cable system works?? anyone got any pics????

[email protected]!!
 

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I went to cable actuation. The countershaft cover came from a 600 Katana (the 750 cover is the same). I did have to trim the rod down about 1/8" though. The two original rods from the GSXR motors ('86 750 and '88 1052) were identical.
 

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Yeah. Kat has actuator on sprocket-cover and uses pushrod like the 1100 does... just cable-pull instead of hydraulic. The 750 on the other hand, uses a lever in the clutch cover - it turns a shaft with a gear that pulls on a rod that has teeth in it that is attached to the top-plate (pressure-plate?) ...the part that has the springs pushing on it. ANYway, yeah they're different. You *may* be able to just direct-swap everything from the 750, but you will not be able to put the hydraulic-stuff back in the 750 motor because there is no hole for the pushrod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Originally posted by 771Doug:
I went to cable actuation. The countershaft cover came from a 600 Katana (the 750 cover is the same). I did have to trim the rod down about 1/8" though. The two original rods from the GSXR motors ('86 750 and '88 1052) were identical.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">771 doug, i checked your site, quite informative and entertaining!!!! Your wife must be very similair to mine, my bike is in the living room with Garlands wrapped around it for the holidays!!!!!!

Can you tell me what you paid for the hindle and whether its the race system? i got a used Micron coming (thanks paul G) since the price was right and it will get this project on the road for now. SOund like the cable conversion will work allright then for me. Do you think i can fit a 190/50/17 tire on it? I can fab a new brake rod that has a little "sway" in it or just make a new rod and space it out a little to clear the tire if needed, just wondering if the chain provides enough clearance? Also on the valve cover, everyone says it won't come off in the bike, you know the breather cover pad on the valve cover, what if i milled that down some would that be enough to get it out? all that goes in there is foam, so i figured i could shorten the top of the valve cover and remove the breather cover and maybe be able to get it out in the bike??? Any idea??
Thanks!
 

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Sorry I started to keep up on this topic but have been slacking lately. You can pull the Valve cover out by just pulling the breather cover for clearance. I do this every time I have to adjust the vaves on my 88. Been doing it for 13 years now. I also have the Katana 600 cable clutch done on my 88 works great just don't use a old cable buy a new one.
Bones
 

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Originally posted by Bones_GSXR:
Sorry I started to keep up on this topic but have been slacking lately. You can pull the Valve cover out by just pulling the breather cover for clearance. I do this every time I have to adjust the vaves on my 88. Been doing it for 13 years now. I also have the Katana 600 cable clutch done on my 88 works great just don't use a old cable buy a new one.
Bones
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Bones...I just put the 600 cable cluch conv on mine. Is yours stiff? Mine is realy heavy. I've checked and there's no binding, new cable is on order too. I didn't trim the push rod, it fit as is, could this be a problem?

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Originally posted by Bones_GSXR:
Sorry I started to keep up on this topic but have been slacking lately. You can pull the Valve cover out by just pulling the breather cover for clearance. I do this every time I have to adjust the vaves on my 88. Been doing it for 13 years now. I also have the Katana 600 cable clutch done on my 88 works great just don't use a old cable buy a new one.
Bones
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">You got to be kidding me right??? I have seen a few 7/11 guys say they had to drop the motor forward to get the valve cover off, they never tried removing 4 bolts on the breather cover and then try to remove the cover first before dropping the motor down??????
can someone clarify which year katana to use the cover from, one place said pre'92, others said post '92?? I assume i use that same year katana cable also for the swap?

Thanks all!
 

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Whew. I'm glad to hear that it's not just me that has the stiff clutch lever. I used the cable from a '90 750 Katana, BTW. I'm sure all of the covers are the same from '89 to at least '98.

gsxr1216, to answer your questions:
1. The system was about $580 delivered from Street & Competition.
2. The 180 tire is pretty close on both sides. Someone else ought to be able to say for sure if the 190 would make it in there.
3. The valve cover ('88 1052) I'm using doesn't have the seperate breather cover, like on my Katana. If it did, removing it would probably provide the necessary clearance. Bones posted that it'll work, so that's good enough for me.

Oh, BTW, I'm not married. My ex would have raised hell about the bike in the house, though. She raised hell about a lot of stuff, that's partly why she's an "EX". That and her boyfriend and I just couldn't seem to get along.
 
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