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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently i smelt my battery leaking so i tried making it home but i didnt make it. I was with a couple of friends so i told them to take me to go buy a new battery but when i put the new battery in the fuel pump wouldnt prime so i had to get someone to come get me. I figured out it was the ecu. I had bought a ecu from ebay which seemed to work fine but then i started to smell the battery again and tried making it home but i didnt make it sadly. That battery leaked as well. But the ecu didnt exactly go bad at the time. I had bought a new regulator and a new lithium battery but then i took it out and it after 7 minutes of riding it shut off while i was going 100+. I got home the new battery was under 10v and it wouldnt charge back up with the charger i have. So i bought another battery i checked if my bike would turn on but the fuse popped and im pretty sure its the ecu again. What can i do so i wont blow another ecu? I have warreny on the regulator but im going to upgrade to a ricks r/r i had electrosport before and their stator as well. Please let me know anything i can do before i put the new ecu in?
 

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check all you related wiring and connectors, make sure everything is 100% from stator on up.. then get yourself a yuasa maintenance free battery, AGM, make sure all your grounds are good specially the battery ground.. make sure ECU isn't getting grounded out anywhere and that all wiring and connectors are 100%..

what mods do you have? LEDs? headlights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
check all you related wiring and connectors, make sure everything is 100% from stator on up.. then get yourself a yuasa maintenance free battery, AGM, make sure all your grounds are good specially the battery ground.. make sure ECU isn't getting grounded out anywhere and that all wiring and connectors are 100%..

what mods do you have? LEDs? headlights?
My headlight stopped working for some reason. The only mod it has is a power commander
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is the ignition 10 amp. When i stop disconnect it stops popping.
Well then the problem is with the Regulator and/or Stator. Leave it disconnected for now.

Does the fuel pump prime?
Does the engine start?
Im pretty sure it was the regulator. Whenever i hit the kill switch the ignition fuse pops so no the fuel pump does not prime
 

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The charging systems on that generation were known to be a problem. You should test the R/R as well as generator output. You'll have to disconnect the charging system from the battery and start/run the engine on the battery only or risk frying anonther ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The charging systems on that generation were known to be a problem. You should test the R/R as well as generator output. You'll have to disconnect the charging system from the battery and start/run the engine on the battery only or risk frying anonther ECU.
Should i keep the r/r connected to the harness?
 

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Maybe the lightbulbs were blown with the ECU? Not untypically during an overvoltage.
Can you measure voltage on the bulb socket?

I also got issues with the alternator. It blew my actuator and blow the fuse. The cables looked very bad and the coating burned off. So maybe another shortcut on the wires to the high/low beam?
Changed both, alternator and actuator and now everything is working fine!
 
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