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I <3 Item 9
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
GSXR 1000 motor installed in a 99 GSXR 750 SRAD, step by step (same frame as in 96-99 750 and 96-00 600). If you don't have a Dremel, power drill, jigsaw, a decent tool collection, and a fridge full of beer, then don't even bother trying to do any of this. In total I spent around 20 hours doing this over one rainy weekend. Enjoy.

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1. Get all the stuff you need for the swap: motor, full wiring harness with ECU and all regulators and sensors, throttle boddies, airbox, oil rad, etc., and gut your bike so that you've got a rolling chassis (remove everything that's getting replaced).... If you have the GSXR 1000 airbox the bottom of the ram-air intakes will stick out at a funny angle. You may need to trim the ram-air intakes to meet flush with the frame. You can see the differance between the two airboxes in the pic below (600/750 airbox on the left, 1000 airbox on the right).


2. Admire your new gauges.


3. Gut your bike... Then connect everything up and hook it up to a battery to make sure everything is operational. Obviously don't start it, but give the starter button a tap to make sure it cranks over... check compression too if you want.


4. Remove 1/4 of an inch of material from the left side of the lower rear motor mount
(Use Dremel with cut-off wheels to do it right). This has to be done accuratly so that the sprockets line up and the chain runs straight!


5. Now cut approximatly 1/4 of an inch of material off the other side. You can cut a bit more or less since the mount on the frame has an adjustable fit-thing that will fine-tune the fit.


6. You will need a 98-99 FI fuel pump, which I already had. Now take the fuel pump out of the gastank and flip it around so it's installed backwards. Otherwise the fuel line won't reach the gastank. If you have a 98-99 FI tank then you will need to plug the middle fluel line (circled in yellow) on the back of the tank. If you have a 96-97 tank then you're ok...


7. move motor into position for mounting and bundle up wiring harness to get it all out of the way (unless you want to unplug the whole harness, but I didn't bother).


8. Get the motor into the lower mount and put a motor mount bolt in there, but don't tighten it yet.


9. Swing motor up and into position and throw a bolt into one of the upper front mounts to hold it in (the bolt won't line up with anything, but it will prevent the motor from swinging forward/down). Oh ya, have friends on hand cause you'll have trouble doing this by yourself. To get motor into proper position simply install throttle boddies and airbox and move motor until the ram-air tubes on the airbox line up with the frame. Then support it there somehow...


10. Use cardboard to start designing a motor mounting bracket... trial and error here since you'll go through a few design templates.


11. Take your bracket templates and cut them out of good quality, strong, steel! This shit took a while to cut, and it's bloody heavy stuff.


12. Heat and bend the mount here and there to get the perfect shape to meet all the corresponding mounts.


13. Shave the front upper motor mounts accordingly to meet the brackets perfectly. You'll have to do your own mesurements here to get the best fit since your brackets will be custom.


14. Other side shaved mounts...


15. Same deal here, making the right side mount...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap15.jpg

16. Slide mounts in and mark where you have to drill the holes, then drill them... Install mounts by lowering motor and bolting both mounts to the motor with engine bolts. Then raise the motor back up and bolt the frame to the mounts...


17. Same for the other side... bolt everything down nice and tight!


18. Fresh spark plugs, fresh oil, fresh filter... then install the headers...


19. Install nitrous line into airbox for dry system...this step is optional


20. Do whatever electrical work you have to do. I had to extend the radiator fan wires and the temp-sensor wires. Then I modded the headlight plug to fit my mini-light. Then I modded the fuel pump plug to fit the 99 fuel pump.

*For the radiator you will need either a Gixxer 1k rad or a 96-97 750 rad because the 98-99 ones do not have temp sensors on them. I used a 97 GSXR 750 radiator and it worked great. You will need to get a longer rad hose on the right side to do this, or just get the proper rad.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap20.jpg

21. Mount guages. Just be creative here...You can see how I mounted them, with the upper portion of the 99 mount reserved for a Sigma computer, and a O2 sensor guage underneath.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap21.jpg

22. Step back and admire what you just did.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap22.jpg

23. The rear mount is all finished and installed. Needless to say use a dremel to remove the original mount, then drill/bolt in your mount. Install the mount by the engine bolt 1st; you'll probably have to lower the motor like I did, install the mount, then raise the motor to bolt the mount to the frame.
The tank clears the top of the mount by half an inch, so it fit perfectly, and it's definetly sturdy, not that it wasn't before anyways.
The bike is a bit heavier, obviously, but the power more than makes up for the weight. I made the cardboard templates to a perfect fit, then had the parts cut out of steel with a water-jet-cutter, then I had them welded.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap23.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap24.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap25.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/1kswap26.jpg

Here are some rough templates for making the motor mounts. They have some measurements to get you started. Obviously after these are cut they require custom trimming, bending, welding, and drilling for the holes. For the rear-upper mount, the green shows where welds have to be made, and see higher up for a pic of the finished bracket...

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/bracket1.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/mt666tm/1kmotorswap/bracket2.jpg

24. Bolt it all up and you're done. Here's how she looks now!
 

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Damn Skid, u are my hero. And man, there should be a few stickys here. That new-gen tail should have been a sticky with that good write up. ANd this should definetely be a sticky. COme on mods............
 

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Looks awesome skidmark. You officially have my favorite gixxer. As soon as the money's together I'll be getting a hold of you to do this. I think I'll be needing some help when the time comes. Keep them templates!
 

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I <3 Item 9
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Discussion Starter #10
Re: GSXR 1000 Motor Swap Instructions (pics) *DELETED*

bike has so much power now... oh man... what a ride I just had, wheelies are not even a challange to get up anymore
 

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Highly unstable
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that is a serious sleeper bro. you need to fuck with some unsuspecting r1's and etc..

if i were you id paint those steel brackets you made or they are gonna rust like no ones business. maybe even have them powder coated.

also, are you 100% sure your front and rear sprocket are in line? since removing metal off the mounts you will want to make sure you have a perfect line from front to rear or you will destroy sprockets, and your shift shaft bearings will go out very quickly.. also, how is the height of the top run of your chain? just make sure you dont have a kink in the chain where it goes over the swingarm or youll eat up the guide, and then into your swingarm. if all is good there then you covered all your bases.. good work man.
 

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I <3 Item 9
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Discussion Starter #15
bmfgsxr said:
if i were you id paint those steel brackets you made or they are gonna rust like no ones business. maybe even have them powder coated.
I painted the brackets cause I figured they could rust... the got a bit scratched up when I slid the motor back in, but they have a nice coating of black on them.

I also made very sure the sprockets line up perfeclty
 

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bmfgsxr said:
glad you were thorough, otherwise it would have been a waste. nice job man. just do me a favor and go eat up some liter bikes who have no friggen clue.
start with mine, lets see how long that juice lasts
 

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I <3 Item 9
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Discussion Starter #18
oh man oh man oh man


Not only did i "devastate" an R1 as I was getting on the highway, he nodded and floored it and I passed him with ease after letting him lead for a few seconds


Then, and this just made all the hard work worth it 100 fold, Third gear bounce up wheelie with NO EFFORT on the highway that I held for quite a while. These 1k motors are made to lift the front wheel and keep it up. I am gonna rock some serious highway wheelies this year, since I'm not a big fan of the slow stuff, just gotta watch out for the boys in blue
 
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