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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening everyone.

I'm currently rebuilding a gsxr k2 1000. Was a nice low milage example with some nice bits on it until it stopped running one day and it got parked up outside for a couple of years.
When I got it home I chucked in a new tea bag filter in the fuel pump, fresh fuel, oil and filter and the battery from my other gsxr in the garage and she fired straight up. So then I stripped it down.

Slowly getting to the end of a huge list of jobs but having a pain with the ignition switch.
It had a power commander and yoshimura ECU.
Had trouble with getting it started and once I disconnected the power commander she fired straight up but I understand the yoshimura ECU needs a power commander to run along side it to run properly, so I put in a standard ECU as the Yoshimura ECU was just creating more hurdles.
The Yoshi ECU eliminates the clutch switch, side stand switch and ignition switch. So once I fitted the standard ECU my dash was flashing like a Christmas tree.
Made my way through the codes and sorted them and one was a code for my ignition switch. After looking around I found a broken wire near the inside of the ignition switch. This started the bike straight up and it ran lovely.

Annoyingly the wire was broken in a awkward place in the ignition and was not solvable.
Trying to find a oem switch what doesn't look like it's been picked up from the bottom of the ocean or comes with no keys etc or being massively over priced I was wondering if a none oem ignition could be wired up.

I bought one with the same 6wire plug and is ment to "fit a k2 1000" but once fitted I get nothing. I understand the oem switch uses a resistor for security reasons but info is hard to come by about this.

Wondered if anyone has done anything similar? It's one of the last jobs to getting this long project finished.

Appreciate any advice to get my head round it. Cheers.
 

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you could try to find a race harness and delete the ignition till a good solid one pops up, what are they new at ronayers? have a good locksmith key everything else to the new ignition key
 

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Looking at your pics, your bike is a K1 not a K2.

K1's have the manual fast idle lever on the L/H handle bar ( which is visible in your pics), K2's deleted this and went to an automatic fast idle controlled via the STVA, from ECU outputs.

K1's also have the chunky mirrors (which are visible in your pics), K2's went to more slender designed mirrors.
 

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K1 also has a dual level fuel sensor that consists of two thermistors on the fuel pump instead of one, a four wire electrical connector instead of three, a fuel level light resistor that plugs into the wiring harness, and (I assume) a different wiring harness. Suzuki stopped selling the dual thermistor pump as a service part so it's rare. I'm not sure how they dealt with the different connector.

"After looking around I found a broken wire near the inside of the ignition switch...Annoyingly the wire was broken in a awkward place in the ignition and was not solvable."
I don't fully follow this. There's a resistor inside the switch that, at least in K5/K6, isn't very hard to fix/reinstall. I have pics if of interest. But it sounds like the leads outside the switch have also been dicked with and need attention. I assume you're aware that the service manual doesn't show the resistor, apparently for security reasons.
 

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I bought one with the same 6wire plug and is ment to "fit a k2 1000" but once fitted I get nothing. I understand the oem switch uses a resistor for security reasons but info is hard to come by about this.
You said you get nothing. So, you mean you get no lights, no dash? Or no starting?

Sometimes the plugs are the same, but the wire colours and internals are different. What wire colours do you have on the new switch? Or maybe upload a photo, and someone can identify what switch you bought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
you could try to find a race harness and delete the ignition till a good solid one pops up, what are they new at ronayers? have a good locksmith key everything else to the new ignition key
I'm finding lots of 750 and 600 ignitions but I'm unsure if they are the same as the 1000.

Looking at your pics, your bike is a K1 not a K2.

K1's have the manual fast idle lever on the L/H handle bar ( which is visible in your pics), K2's deleted this and went to an automatic fast idle controlled via the STVA, from ECU outputs.

K1's also have the chunky mirrors (which are visible in your pics), K2's went to more slender designed mirrors.
You have good eye sight, it's originally a k1 but you see them nice big frame protectors that are on it when I bought it, they were covering nice big dents in the frame. So I bought a good condition k2 frame and rebuilt it from the ground up. So it's on a 02 and out of habit I call it a k2.

K1 also has a dual level fuel sensor that consists of two thermistors on the fuel pump instead of one, a four wire electrical connector instead of three, a fuel level light resistor that plugs into the wiring harness, and (I assume) a different wiring harness. Suzuki stopped selling the dual thermistor pump as a service part so it's rare. I'm not sure how they dealt with the different connector.

"After looking around I found a broken wire near the inside of the ignition switch...Annoyingly the wire was broken in a awkward place in the ignition and was not solvable."
I don't fully follow this. There's a resistor inside the switch that, at least in K5/K6, isn't very hard to fix/reinstall. I have pics if of interest. But it sounds like the leads outside the switch have also been dicked with and need attention. I assume you're aware that the service manual doesn't show the resistor, apparently for security reasons.
Thanks for the info, the plug from the loom has not been messed with and with the original igniton switch the black with white tracer wire was broken inside the ignition what I had to drill out the heads of the bolts to get to it and I found the black plastic disk what the wires connect too was broken inside also so wasn't able to permanently fix it.
I opened up my new switch and can't see the 100ohm resistor inside so I believe this is half the problem.

You said you get nothing. So, you mean you get no lights, no dash? Or no starting?

Sometimes the plugs are the same, but the wire colours and internals are different. What wire colours do you have on the new switch? Or maybe upload a photo, and someone can identify what switch you bought.
Yep that's correct when plugged in I'm getting no power anywhere, lights, dash etc.
I think you are right in saying the wires are not in the correct places and with the resister missing too.
I have uploaded pictures of the oem igniton wires (with the green plug) and it has 6 wires what go into 7 wires at the switch. The 2 reds are connected half way down.
The wires with no plug is the new igniton switch.
The other two are from the broken oem switch.

Hope this makes sense.
Thanks everyone in advance, hopefully this gets sorted as wiring is not my strongest point.
 

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The wiring diagram shows the K1/K2 ignition switch wiring as different than later years. It show six wires: R, O, O/Y, B/W, Gr, & Br. R & O, O/Y & B/W, Gr & Br are connected when ON. In later years there is no B/W and R & O & O/Y are connected along with Gr & Br. Actually there's a 100 ohm resistor between O & O/Y that causes the voltage on O/Y to be around 9 V instead of battery voltage. On yours I suspect that there's a 100 ohm resistor between O/Y & B/W and yours may be missing. But I'd expect the O/Y voltage to still be 9 V (when ON).

I can't make out all of the leads in your first pic above but it might be what I'd expect (there's one at the back that I can't make out). Your second pic seems to show R, O, B/W, B, O/W, and Br/W. That's very different from OEM. You could test it to find out what gets connected. Your final pic shows a jumper, apparently on the wiring harness side, on the R lead. The R lead runs to the R/R and to the starter solenoid so there has to be a jumper somewhere, but I wouldn't expect it to be close to the ignition switch.

With regard to the resistor, this is the sort of thing to look for:

Here's one from a Hayabusa:
 

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You have good eye sight, it's originally a k1 but you see them nice big frame protectors that are on it when I bought it, they were covering nice big dents in the frame. So I bought a good condition k2 frame and rebuilt it from the ground up. So it's on a 02 and out of habit I call it a k2.
serious transformation from a swamp thing to a very nice road bike.. props!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the detailed response BillV!

The 2nd hand 750 k2 switch turned up and worked a charm. Had all lights and started it up no problem.

So I took it back apart to fit an external fuel filter as the Hugh flow filter in the tank was causing it to hit a brick wall at 5k revs and I'm not going to pay £300 for a replacement.

Got it all fitted and she starts and pulls like never before, awesome I thought.. put it back together, now when I turn the ignition on, all I get is the fuel pump noise and it starts up, but have no lights, dash, indicators, horn etc.
 

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A dead front end is normally a bad ground in the connector between the main and front harnesses. The connector design/location is poorly thought out. Suzuki tried different "fixes" but didn't get it right until K9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A dead front end is normally a bad ground in the connector between the main and front harnesses. The connector design/location is poorly thought out. Suzuki tried different "fixes" but didn't get it right until K9.
You are spot on BillV, the yellow plug was slightly corroded and gunked up. Clean out all the connectors whilst I was there and it all works now.
 

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Cleaning can solve the problem in the short term but the corroded contacts are likely to fail again. Replacement contacts are available and cheap. It wouldn't be a bad idea to buy some now to prepare for the next failure. They can be removed without damaging the wires if you're careful. You can also apply some dielectric grease to help stave off the next failure.
 
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