[Gixxerk2ireland]

Hi just wondering if anyone can help iv a gsxr 1000 k2 and it's showing a c46 code for the exhaust valve. It's mite need to be calibrated can any1 tell me a simpler way to do it .... or does any1 the proper way to disconnect the valve altogether. Iv looked threw internet and there is so many different ways just want to no the correct way tanks

 

[BillV]

Bugman used to have a website with such information. I wasn't in complete agreement with what he did but it was valuable information nonetheless. He and the site appear to have been abducted by aliens about six months or so ago as it's vanished. If you have a stock system, I suggest that you belly up and follow the Suzuki procedure. If an aftermarket system, I suggest that you look at the Yoshimura instructions for K1/K2 systems. I haven't bothered to check but the Akrapovic instructions may show an alternate approach. There are complications with regard to disconnecting the actuator from the harness.

Would be nice if the Bugman stuff could be retrieved into a pdf or possibly put up here for reference.

 

[Gixxerk2ireland]

I think my last reply didn't load up ... Would it be safe just to cut the wire ? And leave the motor plugged in .. have a aftermarket can.. tanks for reply

 

[Gixxerk2ireland]

And I tryed his site and its gone 😔 It's just I see some people say there is a different way to do the k1 and k2

 

[Anthony D]

Stock exhaust or aftermarket?

 

[Gixxerk2ireland]

Aftermarket can on it ....

 

[Anthony D]

Ok, so you should refer to the exhaust manufacturer's instructions on SET valve removal.

 

[dpapavas]

Would be nice if the Bugman stuff could be retrieved into a pdf or possibly put up here for reference.

Sounds like a job for the Internet Archive!

 

[BillV]

^Yes, that's the Bugman stuff. Nice to see that it's still available, though the aliens still seem to have some of the pictures.

As I recall, Yoshimura has different ways for K1 and K2, if that's what you're referring to. I'd have to check but I think that they want the EXCVA to remain connected for at least one of the years. Bugman showed how to remove the EXCVA by shorting the leads to its motor. The idea was fine but I took issue with the way that he did it (involved chopping up leads on the wiring harness).

 

[Wevsky]

So in short i have read many different threads on here about removing the lot,i skimmed through bugmans internet archive but it still seems to contradict what others have said about just removing the ecu wire?Can someone tell me if just removing the ecu wire after either disconnecting cables and leaving the rest in or full removal if this will get rid of the f1 light alone or do i need to twist two wires together..kinda just wanna get rid of the f1 light which is popping up from time to time,and once the rain here in the uk stops ill get it inot dealer mode to make sure its the exhaust servo?

EDIT..read more threads,so if i just disconnect cables leaving servo plugged in its the black/brown wire
if i take the lot out its short the servo wires to fool it into thinking its all still there and remove ecu wire for f1 code..
that sound right?

one last thing i need the flapper valve open how is best to go about this if i leave everything in place including cables as the valve seems to be working its just the light i need gone which im guessing is to do with the valve sticking from time to time

 

[BillV]

One way to avoid chopping up the harness is to cut the leads (Gr & P?) on the actuator side of the connector and short them together.

I think that the valve is spring loaded to stay open. So nothing more may be required. For peace of mind, you could wire it open.

Plug the hole where you remove the B/Br wire.

 

[Wevsky]

ive read so many conflicting comments its all got a little confusing if im honest..obviously hoping as the valve is spring loaded when cables come off it jumps to the open position..

 

[Samantha750]

Yes, when cables are disconnected, the flap will be fully open.

 

[Wevsky]

Seems now i have actually caught the code on and put into dealer mode its a C28 code ..oh goody

 

[JustmyGixer]

Cut the "Brown" wire from the ECU :grin2:

now no set valve problems

 

[Samantha750]

Cut the "Brown" wire from the ECU :grin2:

now no set valve problems

Um, c28 is the STVA not set valve. OP you may have pulled (I hope you pulled) the wrong wire from the ECU, plug it back in.

 

[Wevsky]

Um, c28 is the STVA not set valve. OP you may have pulled (I hope you pulled) the wrong wire from the ECU, plug it back in.

Yes sadly this i know,i was hoping my Fi code issues was the set valve,sadly not

 

[Samantha750]

You have several options:

1. Try to fix it yourself

2. I think there is someone on Ebay who fixes them

3. Disable it

4. Try to find a used one

Secondary Throttle body STVA Repair Service

 

[Wevsky]

You have several options:

1. Try to fix it yourself

2. I think there is someone on Ebay who fixes them

3. Disable it

4. Try to find a used one

Secondary Throttle body STVA Repair Service

It is being taken apart and re soldered this weekend..hopefully problem solved

 

[JustmyGixer]

Um, c28 is the STVA not set valve. OP you may have pulled (I hope you pulled) the wrong wire from the ECU, plug it back in.

This topic was about the C46 code unfortunately now its a C28 code ; Make sure you put bike into "Dealer Mode" and are clear what the code number is : Look up what the code is in the manual or ask on this forum. If you assume and get it wrong then can be costly in time and bucks