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Hi all

Decided to register and post about my cousins bike if any of you have similar problems. Bike is a 2006 GSX-R600 european model with immobilizer (ECU = 32920-01H00)

Battery began boiling while driving and ended up damaging the ECU as well. After replacing the battery, turning the ignition on would burn fuse number 4, which was labelled as "ignition" in the bike and as "fuel" in the wiring diagram (wtf). After diagnosing we found out that the ECU shorts the battery to the ground. Two pins in the black connector, the two nearest to the gray connector, O/G and B/W wires. They are ground and power supply for the ecu on the euro model ecu with immobilizer. Leaving only these two wires connected would blow the fuse. The R/R was not OEM, and had been replaced about 10 months ago...

I've seen quite a many posts about fried regulators, rectifiers, batteries and ECUs but none considered trying to repair the ECU. Well, I tried but ended up doing some unrepairable damage to it while cutting away the polyurethane and it's now beyond repair. But I found the faulty component and thought this could be useful information for someone else.

The component is labelled as D401 in the PCB and has "D4 5J" written on top of it. I believe it is a semtech zener diode MM1Z18 (reverse leakage current 0.1A/13V) and it is probably there to protect the ecu from overvoltage. The diode has visibly cracked and has no resistance opposed to the not faulty ones that act as they should (no continuity).

If someone else ends up with a faulty ECU burning the fuse and come to the conclusion that you need a new one, I think cutting the failed ECU open to look at those diodes is worth it considering as a new one costs around 1000€ :) At your own risk of course! I used acetone to make the polyurethane/silicone/whatever more brittle and then carved it out. I wouldn't recommend using a sharp object, I ended up cutting some minimal SMD capacitors out and also damaged the "brains" of the ecu by cutting some legs accidentally. Don't use excessive force. It takes a lot of patience and time. GL! Attached are pictures of the location of the component.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Care to enlighten me about that? How/who can code the key to match the ecu or vice versa?
 

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Care to enlighten me about that? How/who can code the key to match the ecu or vice versa?
I just had the same thing happen a couple weeks ago. Battery melted, rect/reg dead, stator grounded, and ignition fuse kept blowing, even burnt out my headlights. Replacement used ECU on ebay was only $330 USD. Popped the ECU in the bike and it started right up. I only replaced the fuses, battery, rect/reg, and stator. Almost 1,000 miles later and still running very well. You don't need to 'code the key to match the ecu'. Not sure what that is or how but I didn't need to do it. Here is my original post...http://www.gixxer.com/forums/241-gs...l-forum/706233-fuse-box-multi-meter-test.html
 

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Registered
Joined
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3 Posts
Hi all

Decided to register and post about my cousins bike if any of you have similar problems. Bike is a 2006 GSX-R600 european model with immobilizer (ECU = 32920-01H00)

Battery began boiling while driving and ended up damaging the ECU as well. After replacing the battery, turning the ignition on would burn fuse number 4, which was labelled as "ignition" in the bike and as "fuel" in the wiring diagram (wtf). After diagnosing we found out that the ECU shorts the battery to the ground. Two pins in the black connector, the two nearest to the gray connector, O/G and B/W wires. They are ground and power supply for the ecu on the euro model ecu with immobilizer. Leaving only these two wires connected would blow the fuse. The R/R was not OEM, and had been replaced about 10 months ago...

I've seen quite a many posts about fried regulators, rectifiers, batteries and ECUs but none considered trying to repair the ECU. Well, I tried but ended up doing some unrepairable damage to it while cutting away the polyurethane and it's now beyond repair. But I found the faulty component and thought this could be useful information for someone else.

The component is labelled as D401 in the PCB and has "D4 5J" written on top of it. I believe it is a semtech zener diode MM1Z18 (reverse leakage current 0.1A/13V) and it is probably there to protect the ecu from overvoltage. The diode has visibly cracked and has no resistance opposed to the not faulty ones that act as they should (no continuity).

If someone else ends up with a faulty ECU burning the fuse and come to the conclusion that you need a new one, I think cutting the failed ECU open to look at those diodes is worth it considering as a new one costs around 1000€ :) At your own risk of course! I used acetone to make the polyurethane/silicone/whatever more brittle and then carved it out. I wouldn't recommend using a sharp object, I ended up cutting some minimal SMD capacitors out and also damaged the "brains" of the ecu by cutting some legs accidentally. Don't use excessive force. It takes a lot of patience and time. GL! Attached are pictures of the location of the component.
hey great post..wanted to ask if u still have the ecu and if you cansend me the volts onthe 3 capacitors???thnks
 
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