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if you have to use used pistons find a set of 07-08 they are a bit stronger accross the dome.

jason
I was planning to get JE pistons, but I ended up buying this "party pack" :)


One of the pistons is damaged due to retainer failure, but 3 pistons should be ok. So to save some money, I'll just find one more K7 piston.


I have already ordered an OEM head gasket, what is the max, but still safe amount you can shave the head when using stock gasket?

Does anybody know what stacks these are? My friend picked up the parts and he said there are no markings on the stacks.
 

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Ok here we go guys. Im looking to get max squish, and here are my specs.
Its a track bike im usually running 8-12500 k
I have a 08.
Aviation Fuel
Head decked 25 thousanths
weisco 13:5:1 pistons
stock bore
bazzaz zafm zfi
09 intake cam on the exaust
im currently degreed 106.5 intake 112 ex / ptv is 50 thousanths Intake and EX
OEM head gasket with no middle layer

I had it running with the above numbers and it run quit well.

But now ive downed for the winter I have got all new bearings and rings.
So now that im down Ive researched the squish. I know the best ideal squish for track racing is around .025. With my setup am I close to .025, or am i able to deck the block to get more compression/a tighter squish.
 

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Ok here we go guys. Im looking to get max squish, and here are my specs.
Its a track bike im usually running 8-12500 k
I have a 08.
Aviation Fuel
Head decked 25 thousanths
weisco 13:5:1 pistons
stock bore
bazzaz zafm zfi
09 intake cam on the exaust
im currently degreed 106.5 intake 112 ex / ptv is 50 thousanths Intake and EX
OEM head gasket with no middle layer

I had it running with the above numbers and it run quit well.

But now ive downed for the winter I have got all new bearings and rings.
So now that im down Ive researched the squish. I know the best ideal squish for track racing is around .025. With my setup am I close to .025, or am i able to deck the block to get more compression/a tighter squish.
Which timings are good for K7 stock cams?
On track
Compression ~13,5:1
 

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Hi ! I have a simple question that i cant find myself

My question : i bought a bike . me on the bike on the picture ! Yes ima girl

I have to put a map on my dyno but i dont know if my exhaust is slip on or COMPLETE

can you guys tell me ?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Hard to tell in the pics but I think I see a cat under the lower fairing so I would say slip on. Need a photo looking into the lower fairing to see the header and the pipe running from the headers to the muffler.

It looks like just a slip on but it's hard to tell in those photos.
 

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I'm leaning toward slipon. can you get the camera right next to the pipe coming out of the lower fairing and aim it to the front of the bike? Basically trying to see where the headers come together into 1 pipe. If there is a catalytic converter there, then it's just a slip on.
That's a stock midpipe=stock header + bolt on muffler.
FYI no cat in K3-K4, well maybe inside the stock canister in the EU...
 

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Hi all.new to the site.got a puzzle.recently brought a second hand k6 1000 with 18000 ks on her.gave it a sevice.plugs,motul 300v and airfilter clean.filled it up with premium and from there it started running rough and noisy.have now put semi in and filled with 91 and it runs heaps smoother.doesnt seem to like the good stuff.any input would be appreciated.cheers.
 

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I just recently purchased an 03 with 18k+ miles (got it for 2900) and the guy gave me an invoice for a full service he had done. They had the engine compression readings (172, 172, 172, 174) and I was a little nervous about those. I'm reading that it should be around 185-242psi. As far as I know the valves haven't been adjusted but I wouldn't be able to tell if they needed it or not anyway.

Are those numbers ok or should I worry about a potential problem?
 

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I just recently purchased an 03 with 18k+ miles (got it for 2900) and the guy gave me an invoice for a full service he had done. They had the engine compression readings (172, 172, 172, 174) and I was a little nervous about those. I'm reading that it should be around 185-242psi. As far as I know the valves haven't been adjusted but I wouldn't be able to tell if they needed it or not anyway.

Are those numbers ok or should I worry about a potential problem?
Those are very good numbers. Some compression gauges read differently. You may do the same compression check and get crazy high numbers. Unless you know it's been calibrated all your look for is evenness through the cylinders. If one was significantly lower or higher then the rest there would be an issue. As long as they're all within 3-5% of eachother. Anymore then that it gets sketchy.
 

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Those are very good numbers. Some compression gauges read differently. You may do the same compression check and get crazy high numbers. Unless you know it's been calibrated all your look for is evenness through the cylinders. If one was significantly lower or higher then the rest there would be an issue. As long as they're all within 3-5% of eachother. Anymore then that it gets sketchy.
Thank you for the reply. I just wanted to double check and make sure. I got such a good deal I wasn't sure if the guy was hiding something. Now I can spend some money and customize it to my liking. Thanks again.
 

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A light crank will make the bike accelerate (spin up) faster and it will change directions easier.

A light crank is very difficult to launch has a hard time pulling top gear.

I would not recommend it at all for a street bike.
I am rebuilding an engine from a 2001 gsx-r 1000 that spun a rod bearing. It has some light marks on the crankshaft so I was going to send it off and have them polished out/repaired and was looking into having the counterbalancer removed lightened and balanced while I had it out. You are saying that this is not a good thing for a street bike that does some track days and no drag racing?
 

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Does somebody have an idea why there is a slight lean spot on 100% throttle at around 7000-8000rpm? It doesn't affect the shape of hp&Nm curves so it's not really a problem, but I would like to know why it stayed there. Adding fuel didn't seem to help. :dunno

Engine is K5 1000 and we did some modifications that were recommended by Mr. Siukola (he has been in BSB, AMA and currently in MotoGP.) It has K7 1000 cams 107/109, cr is around 14.0, Akra racing line full system and K8 1000 electronics + throttle bodies and short stacks in the middle and stock on the sides. (the middle stacks http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/Juha750/_full_zpsea3c25c0.jpg)

These are from the last tuning session and after this the final adjustments were made to the maps and dyno run is done after changes. RPM isn't calibrated on these 3D graphs. Tuning was done using Woolich Racing software and tuner's own analyzing software. K8 bin has too much timing advance and timing had to be changed also.

For reference a K9 1000 with slip ons made 171rwhp and a K6 600 with some engine work made 114rwhp.









AFR with stock K8 1000 bin
 

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Interesting charts you posted there, I'll have to read and study those more later (and may have a few Q for ya)

Quick thought off the top of my head regarding your lean spot around 7-8K - it could be due to harmonics / reversion - from airbox vibration & pressure waves, cam timing / overlap, exhaust, etc

But really, in the end, since power looks good & consistent, it probably doesn't matter outside a theoretical "what if / why" scenario. interesting to know, for the sake of knowing.... but may not matter

Also, i do find it curious that you see the lean spike on AF ratio but the torque/HP doesn't appear to be impacted. In that case, i'd start questioning the method by which the AF ratio was calculated / measured.... perhaps this result is driven by method, not by actual change with the engine? Just a thought there. These are all just random thoughts i'm throwing out

If you do figure it out, please share, learning is always good :)
 

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Interesting charts you posted there, I'll have to read and study those more later (and may have a few Q for ya)

Quick thought off the top of my head regarding your lean spot around 7-8K - it could be due to harmonics / reversion - from airbox vibration & pressure waves, cam timing / overlap, exhaust, etc

But really, in the end, since power looks good & consistent, it probably doesn't matter outside a theoretical "what if / why" scenario. interesting to know, for the sake of knowing.... but may not matter

Also, i do find it curious that you see the lean spike on AF ratio but the torque/HP doesn't appear to be impacted. In that case, i'd start questioning the method by which the AF ratio was calculated / measured.... perhaps this result is driven by method, not by actual change with the engine? Just a thought there. These are all just random thoughts i'm throwing out

If you do figure it out, please share, learning is always good :)
First of all, it's good to see that you're back. :cheers
I think you are on to something with reversion. Siukola told us that it could happen with such mods. I might be using wrong terminology here, but I think you are talking about the same thing. :)

Those 3D charts show the engines whole power band. I haven't seen these kind of charts before, but those give a better understanding about the engine and how it performs on all throttle positions and not just on 100%.
 
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