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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings from Romania,

After spending most of this winter time riding the internet/forums (f*ck bad weather), trying to find the smartest things to do @ my bike,
ended up reading the sh*t out of this forum the nights of the last 2 weeks. (And allmost having a divorce...)

So beyond most of the bullsh*t some frustrated users made me read, just tryin' to be smart as*es i guess (hope u won't get me wrong).

I got the conclusion this is probably the best place over the internet where i'll learn something, change some ideas and even make some new friends...

I'll probably should stop with the boring sh*t and start with the stuff that i initially wanted to do.

Let's start talkin 'bout my ride...
Ended up having it last summer from my best pal that past away, so it has an even bigger value than bein' a K8.
And because one of his last dreams was to break down the national drag record and because i have a garage with some friends that help me
and of course, normal/stock was never an option for me.
Started to put some time and work on this bike, tryin' to show that with more of that and lil' expenses, we can do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I'll start posting some pics/data 'bout the bike/build:

Here's one for the ones of u that wanted to make an idea on how it looked like stock (Black Ed.)


LeoVince SBK EVO II GP Style SlipOn Exhaust System (Dual Cans and MidPipe Y/Cat eliminator) - a very nice growling sound,
Barracuda adjustable License plate Bracket, CrashPads.
In the lower pic u can see the Smoked DoubleBobble WindScreen and Smoked (spray'd) mirror Caps (front turn signal).
Took down most of the Vinyls too...


Smoked (spray) TailLight and Turn signals, Black (PowderCoated) passenger Sets,
Dunlop Racing Slicks (i get them from friends that go to the track).


@ Serres Racing Circuit.


Dunlop D212 Tires and Brembo 19x20 Front Brake Master Cylinder.


Leaving to a DragRace after 17-18h of work...
Didn't manage to do much before the stock clutch allmost welded together. (10,3sec after 3 runs)
In the lower pic u can see my Stretched F4i Drift Bike i also built.
 

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The name you gave your bike intrigues me. Bad translation?
Welcome to the site! I'm sure OG, Karn's performance and a few others can help you out a lot with HP and drag racing. :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Removed Mirrors, Passenger Sets, Vinyls, full Polish.
Made a Custom MidPipe (TIG welding), Shorty exhaust (left only 1 Can). SET Valve - Open.
15 (-2) teeth FrontSprocket.
Made a Custom 12" SwingArm Extensions on a Lathe and Milling Machine (of course made a longer Chain).
Hell Racing braking Lines, Carbon Lorraine XBK5 BrakePads.
Got Another set of Michelin Slicks (D212 did their job).
Found a WindScreen Screw kit @ the garage that i took down from a friend's bike
(seemed kitsch on his - and allmost every other bike i saw them on)...


Smoked HeadLight (film), 6000K BiXenon and USA MarkerLight (Yellow LED).
Fast action Throttle Command (shortest could find - from a Ducati ST4).


Out with some friends...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The name you gave your bike intrigues me. Bad translation?
Welcome to the site! I'm sure OG, Karn's performance and a few others can help you out a lot with HP and drag racing. :cheers
Nope, we gave that name to the bike because is mostly all black and (until now) it fucks everybody else on the streets here.
I'm kinda obsessed of drag'ing the shit out of it.

Nice to meet ya! Glad to hear that, hardly wait...

MTZ
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A friend had a my fav Yoshimura carbon Can on his ZX10, i managed to trade him one of my LeoV cans (made him a mid pipe too).
The Yosh was in pretty bad shape, i used some sand paper, some polish...
Modded in from 55mm to 60mm, made a Larger Custom MidPipe (from 50mm to 63mm) for it too... And here it is.
Eliminated the Lambda Sensor (O2) for the moment...


@ some friend's garage - E30 BMW's never die!
Stopped to eat something with a friend and when we came out the bike was parked there. :)


In front of my block with my scooter.


Out of the town for a WE with some friends, the rain got us...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Few presents for my boy:
Pipercross Air Filter (Race Spec), RockOil Racing Synthesis 4 Engine Oil,
BelRay SuperClean Chain Lube, Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid, Kayaba 01M Racing Fork Oil, AllBalls Fork Seal kit,
BelRay MotoChill Racing Engine Coolant, EBC Racing SRK Clutch kit
(Carbon-Kevlar lined Friction Plates, Harder HeavyDuty clutch Springs and Steel Separator Plates).


Yamaha MonoBlock Brake Callipers and Custom Adapters.


Few accesories from 4 Racing Components:
Mirror Caps, Clutch + Front Brake Master Cylinder Fluid Cover, Closed Steering Ring Nut.
Some AllBalls Racing Bearings... CrashPads down.
And a little extra 'something to drink' from a friend.


Out for a ride @ the country.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Made a Custom Aluminium NOS Bottle Bracket, cleaned the nasty stickers off...
Made some Custom Lowering Links (and an adapter between them)...
Custom Shorty Levers...
PowderCoated all of them Black Matte.
4 Racing Components Oil Cap and Fork Spring Adjusters.


After 24h of work u can see it all together with the Black Matte PowderCoated RearSets
and the Carbon 3M Vinyl mounted on the NOS bottle Bracket too.
Ah, and the Passenger seat Cowl.
Allso mounted a Carbon Bracket on the Can -> RearSet (keept it from the LeoV).
(Front lowered as much as the triple clamps allowed.)


First thing after some sleep - out with the guys to see how it rides!
New kind of animal... :)


All that like an last hour job before the drag race next day (as usual).
We don't have a drag strip here, so we only have few legal events, mostly on a old airport.


Arrived @ Tulcea Airport. Some last moment settings...


Ready to rumble!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Went to like 16-17PSI rear tire pressure to manage to get a decent launch with this Medium compound Slick @ this track.
I have 117 pounds. The strip is made from concrete plates and they are not really even.
So when u pass from one to another the back tire tends to lose grip. (We will talk 'bout the rear shock pretty soon.)
Not to mention if the front tire gets in the air, if it gets down right between the plates it starts to wobble pretty bad, so i have to let down the gas a lil' bit.
Hope to fix that with a good steering damper (and a better hand/s).


vs. BMW S1000RR HP4 (with some mods) - he was low 10's.


After a few runs (Despite the fact that i felt like a better Tire, Rear Suspension and Steering Damper could really help)
the times were starting to be oki (9.6 @ 235kmh with a pretty bad 1.7 60ft - stock motor/pump gas).


Actually winning the Pro Class and taking down the old National Record.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice shoes! :facepalm :lol
I know, i know, i was expecting that... :)

They shift better, allmost everybody @ the event was riding like that, so i thought i should get confortable and do that sh*t too.
Didn't think at that time that i should give an example by not doing that.
Got my lesson there.

MTZ
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@ The Hood


One last spin @ 2013
We have some places where we get together every friday (cars/bikes).
In this parking lot to drift or a highway (if i can call it that way :) ) to drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Some prior things on the to do list (and some questionable things):
- Wrapped airbox (Maybe carbon)
- Stacks (50/all 4 short?)
- Wideband sensor
- Block off plates (So the sensor could read better)
- Secondaries out
- ECU Editor (Think i could use the data logger instead of a dyno?)
- Quick Shifter (DynoJet sensor)
- Launch Control (With ECU Editor on Cluch sensor)
- Cluch mod (3 slippery c. pins off & weld together the 2 parts)
- 3 holes in the cluch basket
- Headers (4mm larger?)
- Head porting/work (How much bigger intake/exhaust?)
- Higher comp. (Take down the middle layer of the gasket/'04 stock gasket/shave .020-.030 off the head?)
- Adjustable cam sprockets (105-106IN/107-108EX?)
(I understand the cams are big already (376/352), are they interchangeable with other years/models?
How 'bout putting a in. cam on the ex. than play with the adj. sprockets?)
- 750 valve springs ('06/'07?)
- Racing cam chain tensioner
- Tire (Shinko UltraSoft/SuperSoft Comp. Slick?)
- Steering damper (Mupo/Ohlins/WP?)
- Rear suspension
(I was thinking the spring might be oki, i'm lighter but the extended swing arm has more leverage to compress the spring.
As for the shock, i might try giving it to a guy here that mods them for the guys that rally and drift in our championships, he does a really great job. A SH one is pretty cheap anyway. I really need to do something with the rebound - at least.)

Please keep in mind that (where we can) we have to make a compromise so this could be a street daily driven/drifted bike too.

I'm sure i can get some help @ here.
I hope is not to much, 10x!

We have a word here - Dry road! :)

PS: I hope this is goin' to be one of the best DIY topics @.

MTZ
 

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Have you considered buying a Woolich Racing log box http://www.woolichracing.com ? Otherwise you have to hook up a laptop to record engine data. I just bought log box and a wideband. I'm converting my bike's electronics to k8 1000 electronics so I can use WRT/EcuEditor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you considered buying a Woolich Racing log box http://www.woolichracing.com ? Otherwise you have to hook up a laptop to record engine data. I just bought log box and a wideband. I'm converting my bike's electronics to k8 1000 electronics so I can use WRT/EcuEditor.
Yup, that's what i wanted to say.
"- ECU Editor (Think i could use the data logger instead of a dyno?)"

We only have one bike dyno @ the country and it's not workin all the time. :hammer

Thanks 4 the advice anyway. ;)

MTZ
 

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Nice bike. Few things off the top of my head:
-get rid of those tires and try to find a Michelin Power One,if you cant find one of those get a Shinko for the rear.
-drop the rear end lower and strap the front in addition to raising the forks like you've done,you need to be a lil lower
-forget the DJ Quick Shifter and get an air shifter;you wont have to fumble getting your foot onto the peg to make that 1-2 shift on the launch. Your feet shouldn't be anywhere near the pegs when launching,if they are youre doing it wrong
-work on that 60'....with 12" extension you should pretty much be knocking on the door of an 8.9 pass. You should easily be in the 1.3x range with your 60'

Id hold off on all that work you wanna do;no point in adding more power if you cant utilize all of what you have right now. get your launch down,get your chassis dialed it first then add power
 

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OLDFART, i mean oldgixxer is right :p get the chassis and clutch dialed in 1st before trying to maximize power output.

i've tried to comment where i can with a good amount of certainty. nothing worse than giving advise based on hearsay rather than personal experience. my 2-cents are in bold:

Some prior things on the to do list (and some questionable things):
- Wrapped airbox (Maybe carbon) NOT REALLY NECESSARY, BUT IF YOU'VE GOT THE PATIENCE GO FOR IT.
- Stacks (50/all 4 short?) 4 SHORTIES ARE GREAT FOR TOPEND RPM POWER, BUT YOUR MIDRANGE WILL NOT HAVE THE SAME PUNCH
- Wideband sensor I'D RECOMMEND DAYTONA SENSORS WEGO III
- Block off plates (So the sensor could read better) WON'T HURT AND RELATIVELY CHEAP
- Secondaries out BE SURE TO ADJUST FUEL MAP FOR IT
- ECU Editor (Think i could use the data logger instead of a dyno?) YOU COULD USE ECU EDITOR TO DYNO AND GET A SAFE BASELINE MAP (ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE SPRAYING NITROUS). WHILE YOU'RE AT IT, RAISE THE REV LIMIT (IF YOU'VE GOT HD VALVE SPRINGS), ELIMINATE LOWER GEAR TIMING RETARD, AND SET FUEL INJECTORS TO 50% TOP/50% BOTTOM DISTRIBUTION RATHER THAN 80 TOP/20 BOTTOM. USE THE WEGO III TO ADJUST THE BASELINE MAP THROUGH ECU EDITOR AS NEEDED.
- Quick Shifter (DynoJet sensor) MPS AIR SHIFTER KIT
- Launch Control (With ECU Editor on Cluch sensor) PERHAPS A 2-STAGE OR MULTI-STAGE LOCKUP CLUTCH?
- Cluch mod (3 slippery c. pins off & weld together the 2 parts) DEFINITELY WORTH DOING
- 3 holes in the cluch basket NOT REALLY NEEDED
- Adjustable cam sprockets (105-106IN/107-108EX?)
(I understand the cams are big already (376/352), are they interchangeable with other years/models?
How 'bout putting a in. cam on the ex. than play with the adj. sprockets?) DUAL INTAKE CAMS IS PRETTY POPULAR AND RELATIVELY CHEAP. USE THE STOCK 07-08 INTAKE CAM AND A 01-04 INTAKE CAM ON THE EXHAUST SIDE. YOU'LL NEED 1 ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKET ALSO. THAT IS GOOD FOR 5-8HP.

- Racing cam chain tensioner DEFINITELY WORTH DOING
- Tire (Shinko UltraSoft/SuperSoft Comp. Slick?) SHINKO "HOOK-UP"
- Steering damper (Mupo/Ohlins/WP?) YOU CAN PUT HEAVIER WEIGHT FORK OIL IN THE ECU-CONTROLLED STOCK DAMPER TO STIFFEN IT UP A BIT. OTHERWISE I'D PROBABLY GET A TOP MOUNTED DAMPER FOR EASIEST ACCESS
- Rear suspension
(I was thinking the spring might be oki, i'm lighter but the extended swing arm has more leverage to compress the spring.
As for the shock, i might try giving it to a guy here that mods them for the guys that rally and drift in our championships, he does a really great job. A SH one is pretty cheap anyway. I really need to do something with the rebound - at least.) WON'T HURT TO GO A BIT HEAVIER ON THE SPRING IN CASE YOU GO LONGER. OTHERWISE JUST DIAL THE PRE-LOAD IN FOR CORRECT SAG IF YOU CAN. THE REAL BITCH WITH DRAG RACING A STOCK SHOCK IS VALVING (REBOUND AND COMPRESSION). RE-VALVING IS THE WAY TO GO RATHER THAN TRYING GET THE STOCK VALVED SHOCK TO WORK.

SIDENOTES: I'D RECOMMEND UPGRADING TO A HIGH PRESSURE OIL RELIEF VALVE, MIGHT AS WELL PORT THE THROTTLE BODIES TOO IF YOU DECIDE TO PORT THE HEAD. THAT'S ABOUT ALL I CAN THINK OF RIGHT NOW.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
10x OldGixx'

- I was really wondering how does one of the racing slicks i use hook up vs a drag tire, let's say Shinko...
(Talkin' bout Shinko i've heard many opinions HookUp vs UltraSoft.)

- I only lowered the bike this much because, like i said, i drive it on the streets every day. And our streets are not really great...
In a quick search on google u can see they are full of suprises (and hookers i see) :) :
http://www.ziardecluj.ro/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/media/image/2013/02/buzznews.jpg?itok=nuSnP7Nq
http://www.craiovaforum.ro/stiri/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/strazi_pline_de-gropi.jpg
Anyway, i made 3 holes in the lowering links, now is the 2nd. But for what i remember, if i lower it more, the spring will hit the swingarm.
I was really thinkin' bout lowering it and strapping the front for the strip.
We do a lot of street drag racing here and with the config i just mentioned and all the bumps (and cops) i don't think it's a very good idea.

- I wanted just the QS because i kinda feel like taking all the fun out with a (auto) air shifter.
On the other side, i really feel the downsides of puting my feet up in the pegs.
Was thinkin bout makin some custom rearset adapters so i can put them as back as i can.

- I know 60ft's the biggest problem now, i am makin the cluch mod as we speak and i gotta figure the tire out. Same with the shock!
Maybe shortening the wheelbase a lil bit (i made the adapters so i can adjust the wheel a few inches) so i'll have some more grip, it's my biggest prb now!

U're perf right, really apreciate. :thumbup
MTZ
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Agree d3coy, chassis/suspension and clutch are on top of my list!

That's exactly my point, i want advices from the ones that really know/done something, 10x.

- I preffer putting time/work on the bike rather than $.

- I don't want to mess that much with the mid power, as i said, i ride/drift the bike on the streets every day.
U think all 4 short ones (stock - or maybe from 750 i've heard) will do the job?
Or Velocity Stacks type? (50mm? 60mm? Is the inlet radius bigger?)
I have material (Al) and i can fab some pretty cheap (polish them too).

- Still searching for the best deal on the WB O2 sensor (heard something bout a Bosch LSU).

- I will fab the blockoffs.

- Not thinkin' bout the NOS for now. Wondering if the stock 750 valve springs r oki and how much coud i raise the rev limit. Eliminating lower gear timing retard is a must. Didn't know bout the 50/50 inj set. As the dyno @ here bein such a prb, i will thinkin to tune the ecu with the help of the WB and log box.

- As i said, for now, i think i wanna keep the fun of foot shifting. I wanna keep it as much as a street bike as i can.

- Until the lock-up or slider clutch, i wanted to use the ecu option (if it's allready included). Thought i could use the clutch sensor.

- Allready doin the clutch mod.

- Makin the basket holes too, i allready fried 2 clutches.

- I don't think the ratio will be oki with 2 intake cams. As for the 01-04 ones, are they interchangeable?
I've heard the intake has a cam pin in a different location (maybe make a .125 inch spacer) and the intake side of the cams lobes are in different areas...
Again the valve spring question.
I'll definetly take the both adj cam sprokets.

- I'll probably fab the adj chain tensioner too.

- I've really have to make up my mind with the tires!

- Do you know what quantity and viscosity should the steering damper oil be to get hard as it can? I'll prbbly do that for now and later buy an ohlins, i can get (a stock mount) one for 200$.

- The stock spring i think is oky, i have only 115lbs, it compesates with the extended SA.
The shock it's a MF, doesn't do much sh*t. I have and od guy that really knows his way @ them, i'll keep u up to date. If not, maybe i'll find a SH Penske ar a reasonable price, for what i've seen it (a drag spec shock) really makes his job.

- Thanks for the High pressure oil relief valve advice, looked in to it and seems like thinks get pretty nasty at the rod bearings if u don't do something. Popped oil filter issue not a prb if u let the bike heat up before u rev?
I've heard that the oil pump sump it's pretty big but they kept the gearing low tu reduce the friction (for minimal loss of power), so a oil pump gearging would be better.

Thanks, appreciate the post! :punk
MTZ
 
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