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i heard its not a good idea to switch back from synthetic oil to conventional...has anyone heard this...? bike is a 96' GSXR-1100..thanks
 

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Isn't is just like using semi-synthetic? I have heard this, but I do not think that there is validity to this.
 

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the problem is supposed to be that because of the detergents in synthetic oil, the new oil will foam or some shit. i dont think it would be a huge deal, but i'm personally a firm believer in full syn oils. especially in toys that we demand a lot out of. they're so cheap to maintain, spending an extra $20 on syn once a year is worth it to me. at least i know when i'm beating on it i put the best oil i could in it.
 

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:scratch Never heard that before.
been working at autozone for a while and you ask any of the guys there and they'll tell you not to switch back (from synthetic to conventional) because the seals are conditioned and treated by the synthetic oil and when you take that away, they can shrink and you can start to blow oil... plus 20 bucks is worth that extra piece of mind
 

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When synthetic oils were FIRST introduced all the major oil manufacturers recommended breaking in engines with conventional oil (due to the fact the syn oil did not allow for enough friction to occur to break in the rings) and the switching to synthetic and never switching back. Abt 4 years ago I went to a Valvoline seminar for work and they explained this all to us, I don't remember why the initially advised against switching back but they told us that there is absolutely no issue whatsoever with switching back to a conventional oil now-days. The question was brought up due to potential legal issues of putting conventional oil in a car that was running synthetic and possibly causing engine damage (I work for an automotive repair chain)
 

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Just in my case, I have switched back and forth several times. With several bikes all beaten like I stole them every ride. 25,000 hard miles on my 2006 1000 and not a leak or seal replaced yet.

My 2001 Which I turboed after 16,000 miles ran great also and still runs to this day in the sand since that motor went into an ATV. :punk

Rotella Either syn (not sure it is a "true" syn) or the reg. stuff. Back and forth as well as Motoul and others from time to time but I fall back on the cheap and often system myself. :cheers

There will be as many different views on this as what tire is the "best".:lmao
 

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Another oil thread?


You can switch to and from synthetic/non-synthetic as many times as you would like, nothing bad will happen. The important thing is that you change the oil at, or more often than, the specified intervals in your service manual.
 

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the problem is supposed to be that because of the detergents in synthetic oil, the new oil will foam or some shit. i dont think it would be a huge deal, but i'm personally a firm believer in full syn oils. especially in toys that we demand a lot out of. they're so cheap to maintain, spending an extra $20 on syn once a year is worth it to me. at least i know when i'm beating on it i put the best oil i could in it.
If you are using a car oil in a bike this may happen as the car oil does not have the anti foaming additives that a motorcycle oil has. If you are using a quality motorcycle specific oil you will not have any problems switching back and forth. It is cheap insurance to use the best oil in you bike. Full Synth is best hands down!
 

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Your bike will burst into flames if you do this.







Seriously though, semi-synthetic oil is conventional oil mixed with synthetic oil.......does that cause any problems? apparently not since they bottle it and sell it on store shelves.
 

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Sorry Bro but all oil is not the same. Full Synth is NOT the same as mineral oil. Not by far.
bad choice of words by me, yoshimurard:cheers

u r 100% true, but what i was refering to is that there is really no wrong choice of motorcycle oil. as long as its changed regularly. synthetic is better, but dino oil is not bad for a motor by any means, its just not nearly as good.

i run mobil 1 as it scored high on the diagnostic. and its readily available.:punk
 

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Calling it, "motorcycle oil," is a marketing device which does one thing and one thing only: It incentivizes you, the unknowing consumer, to give up more of your money than you need to give up.

Use synthetic if you want to test it out. Personally, the few benefits there are (and yes, there are a few), are not worth the extra cost. Value given is short of dollars paid, if you know what I mean.

Switching back from synthetic to dino oil causes no harm whatsoever.

Carry on!

--Wag--
 

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bad choice of words by me, yoshimurard:cheers

u r 100% true, but what i was refering to is that there is really no wrong choice of motorcycle oil. as long as its changed regularly. synthetic is better, but dino oil is not bad for a motor by any means, its just not nearly as good.

i run mobil 1 as it scored high on the diagnostic. and its readily available.:punk
I have to agree with you. If you change every 3k then it should not present a problem. I am also like you in that I use only full Synth. Elf Moto Sport 4 Campione. It is a 10W60 and since it is very hot 98% of the time here in Houston, TX it takes very god care of my girl.
 

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All you guys are wrong, switching from a full synthetic oil back to a conventional oil. Causes oil sludge. Mind you, if you have been running a Full synthetic and switch back to a conventional oil and you stick with the conventional oil, you're fine. But, switching back and forth constantly could cause enough sludge to cause some problems. You would have to change back and forth consistently for a long time to possibly cause any problems, as a result from oil sludge. If you switch back and forth once or twice it's harmless. The reason it is warned not to do is, the chemical structure of the remaining oil in the motor ,from say full synthetic, is mixed with the new batch of convectional oil. It causes small amounts of oil sludge. But, doing it once or twice over the life of an engine and changing that oil at proper intervals, no foul. The best thing to do for sludge prevention is to have your motor flushed. All motors after a given time are subject to oil sludge. It takes a lot of miles for this factor to possibly be a hinder on a neglected motor. Believe it or not, the best thing to flush a motor with is diesel fuel. Poor it in any crankcase after draining oil. Say five quarts of diesel in a five quart crankcase. Start the motor, let it idle ( DO NOT REV ! ) for 2-3 minutes and no longer. Drain, like you would oil. You would not believe what the diesel removes, that was left behind. Would I do this on my 11 thousand dollar motorcycle ? Hell no, but have done it on every single vehicle in my life, during every oil change. A lot of miles, out of a lot of vehicles.
 

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All you guys are wrong, switching from a full synthetic oil back to a conventional oil. Causes oil sludge. Mind you, if you have been running a Full synthetic and switch back to a conventional oil and you stick with the conventional oil, you're fine. But, switching back and forth constantly could cause enough sludge to cause some problems. You would have to change back and forth consistently for a long time to possibly cause any problems, as a result from oil sludge. If you switch back and forth once or twice it's harmless. The reason it is warned not to do is, the chemical structure of the remaining oil in the motor ,from say full synthetic, is mixed with the new batch of convectional oil. It causes small amounts of oil sludge. But, doing it once or twice over the life of an engine and changing that oil at proper intervals, no foul. The best thing to do for sludge prevention is to have your motor flushed. All motors after a given time are subject to oil sludge. It takes a lot of miles for this factor to possibly be a hinder on a neglected motor. Believe it or not, the best thing to flush a motor with is diesel fuel. Poor it in any crankcase after draining oil. Say five quarts of diesel in a five quart crankcase. Start the motor, let it idle ( DO NOT REV ! ) for 2-3 minutes and no longer. Drain, like you would oil. You would not believe what the diesel removes, that was left behind. Would I do this on my 11 thousand dollar motorcycle ? Hell no, but have done it on every single vehicle in my life, during every oil change. A lot of miles, out of a lot of vehicles.
No, you my friend, are wrong. Like I said, I spoke with representatives from Valvoline, a $7 Billion dollar a year lubrication company, and they explained the entire process to us, and why it used to NOT be OK (20 years ago) and why it is fine to do today. All oils have detergent in them that cleans out the inside of an engine. I don't know how many engines you have rebuilt but I have rebuilt a lot, in various states of maintenance and one thing is clear to me; change your oil regularly and you motor wont get sludged up. And NEVER in my life have I heard of someone running straight diesel fuel in a crankcase! Fuel oil has absolutely ZERO sheer strength and very low film strength, that will wipe out main, rod and cam bearings faster than you can say shit. The proper way to flush and engine is to put in fresh oil, ONE quart of Kerosene (diesel could be used, but kerosene is a stronger solvent) Idle and drain. This should never be done in a bike.
 
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