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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have this GiPro ATRE G2 gear indicator from Healtech mounted on my 03' gsxr 600 and I have a small issue that has been bothering me for several months. People from Healtech were unable to help me, I had the product changed over warranty but still the problem remains with the new one so I assume it comes from my bike.

Here is what happens exactly, the GiPro siwtches off and on automatically (reboot) in loop when ALL the following conditions are met:
  • Bike in Neutral
  • Engine running
  • Engine at idle
  • Engine warmed up
Except from that, the gear indicator is functionning perfectly as expected, which means whenever a gear is engaged it works fine and indicates the right gear whatever the RPM or clutch position.

I took some measurements from the battery, and I have 12.8V with engine off, 14.7V with the engine on at idle and 14.2V with the engine on and running at 3-5k RPM. Everything looks fine to me here. Having a gear engaged gives the same measurements.

Important to mention that when the fail occurs (bike in neutral), the green light indicator on dashboard is on just as it should.

Also, when just starting the engine, the indicator works fine at first then reboots one time maybe after a couple of minutes then starts to reboot gradually more and more often until the point where it does not even have the time to go to the complete boot sequence (number displayed from 1 to 6).

Does anyone have a clue on what could go wrong ?
Could it be related to the R/R?
Could it be related to a failing 5V coming from the ECU to measure the voltage output from the GPS?

To me it definitely looks to some issue related to heating but I don't know what to look at. Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.
 

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It sounds like it may be getting turned off and then back on to me. Trace the power wire back and see if you find any loose connections. You can even try to get power from something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @2017Dave. I already checked this several times. The power wire is currently connected to a 12V ignition from the rear brake light switch so the GiPro automatically turns on and off with the ignition. But I also tried to connect this power wire directly to the battery and the behavior is the exact same.
 

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I'm unfamiliar with the details of your bike and don't have the service manual. So this is just wild guessing. First, I don't understand your "failing 5V coming from the ECU to measure the voltage output from the GPS" question. I didn't expect the GPS to be connected to the 5 V sensors power line. Is it somehow involved? Second, I gather that the GiPro plugs in at the GPS connector. I wonder if the GPS is faulty or if something's wrong with the ground connection there. The bad ground seems a bit of a stretch if your neutral indicator works OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your reply @BillV,
I found the following schematic regarding the OEM GPS setup on this bike ==> Please look at the enclosed image

You are right, the Gipro has 2 conectors of 3 wires each that you connect just where the GPS plug is on the scheme.

As you see the GPS is in fact not really a sensor but just a switch changing the resistor in order to create a voltage divider. This then allow the ECU to know the engaged gear by measuring the volatge at the 1k resistor terminals. When in neutral, it directly connect to the 12V and turns the green indicator on so I don't see how it could be failing threre...
The 5V line I was talking about is given by the ECU to create the voltage divider but you are right this should be OK as all the engaged gears are properly indicated.

An hypothesis I have is that when the R/R gets hot, it produces very short (high frequency) voltage drops or peaks that I cannot see with the voltmetre, those are handled by the whole bike except ther GiPro, it that possible?

Thanks for letting me know for any other idea you have
 

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The GPS is prone to gunk up from chain lube or whatever and give bogus readings. I suspect that is what you are experiencing. There are many threads here about cleaning them with brake cleaner. You can test yours with a multimeter. Assuming that yours is the same as mine, the resistances between the B/W and P leads are somewhere around 560, 830, 1500, 2700, 6800, 15000 Ω for gears 1-6 (I've also seen 370, 860, 1500, 2800, 6100, 17000 Ω). A bad contact could give a high resistance and associated high voltage that the Gipro may not know what to do with.

Again assuming that yours is like mine, it's possible to disassemble the unit as is shown here. But most people clean without disassembly or buy another. Suzuki has redesigned the unit a couple times, which is indicative of their recognizing the problem.
 

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I think you're confusing the GPS with the speed sensor. The GPS is isolated from the chain, so no chain lube should ever reach it. Engine oil maybe, but not chain lube.

This does 2 things. First, it intercepts the voltage from the GPS to tell you what gear you're in. Second, it sends a voltage to the ECM to tell it what gear it's in (5th for the TRE mode), or neutral. It uses a T-harness to make connections easy. The other wire is to give the module power. It sounds like you connected power to the unit directly from the battery, so I would think that's probably good. It would then need a good ground to complete that circuit, which it gets from the GPS itself. The GPS has three wires. One for Neutral signal, one shared for all the gears (varying voltage), and the ground. Based on the symptoms you're describing, it sounds like something is messing up that ground. Probably the sensor itself heating up as power flows through which is why the problem seems to get worse over time.

I think you can rule out the signal from the ECM since the GI pro has it's own power. If it were an ECM issue, the GI pro would just give you bad information since the voltages it senses would be off.
 

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It's located right below the front sprocket, at least it is on my K6 1000, and tends to get covered in a mix of chain lube and road grime. There are O-ring seals that should keep it clean. But I'm suspicious about how well they work. Maybe they're just getting contaminated with engine oil, though I'm surprised that it would cause all the problems that have been seen with them.
 
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