This is from the `89 1100 model, but for changing oil, it's the same parts in the same places:
...it's best if you start the bike, and warm it up just a tad in order to get all the dirt particles mixed up in the oil before you drain it... I usually start mine, run it on the choke for 10 seconds, and then let it idle for about a minute, then ride it around the parking lot once and shut it down just before I drain the oil (the idea is to get the oil moving around, but NOT to get the header pipes hot enough to blister skin on contact). The book says 3.5 quarts is enough for a oil & filter change... but experience says 4 - 4.5 qts is more like it. Do yourself a favor, and get a Suzuki OEM filter, or an Emgo filter... avoid Fram at *all* costs. The "special tool" oil-filter wrench that they show in the manual is highly optional... I've never used one, but I *do* use gloves and sometimes it is a tad difficult to get the filter loose... do *not* punch a hole in the thing with a screwdriver... if it's that tight, find an oil-filter wrench... *trust* me.
Formula has some good advice. It would be *well* worth the cost for you to get some kind of shop manual for your bike... and if you know *anyone* nearby who has some experience wrenching on bikes, suck up your pride, buy a 6-pack, and invite him/her over to drink beer and help you out with this stuff... you're going to run into *lots* of stuff on these older bikes that should be checked/looked after. Bleeding your brakes, valve-lash check... the list goes on. Do yourself a favor and *at least* get a shop manual; you *will* need it sooner or later.
Oh yeah, one last thing... make *certain* that the bike is as level as possible when checking the oil in the sight-glass... if you don't have a stand, get someone to help you by holding the bike up while you look at the sight-glass... do *not* do this on the sidestand!
and ill be sure to get a shop manual soon. Working on bikes may be new to me, but i have rebuilt a few car engines/custom fab'd turbo stuff. So getting my hands dirty on the ole bike shouldnt be a problem. The real problem is i dont personally know anyone who rides, or specificly knows bike innards.
So i'll probably be looking to this foruma lot for help when i need it. Thanks a lot guys.
Assuming that nobody has flipped the linkage over on you... or made other mods, click the shifter down as many times as it will go, and that's first. Next *gentle* click up should be neutral, but if you click it hard, it goes straight to second. The rest is easy, click up again for 3rd, 4th, etc... make sure that your clutch is adjusted properly, and change to a synthetic oil and it should shift as smooth as silk.
...speaking of oil... old, worn-down oil *will* make a bike difficult to shift... if you just got the bike, or don't know when the last oil-change was, you should do one *immedialtely*.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thats how i know im not getting into neutral
actually i got it figured out now, thanks guys. Im new to bikes so got lots of questions, regarding oil. is the tranny oil split off of the engine oil? or is it like a car, with a seperate cavity for tranny oil. Where do i find it? and how much oil do i put in (didnt get owners manual) thanks guys
STOP RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!. step away from the computer.... go to nearest place to pic up owners manual/haynes manual/suzuki manual or any combination.
Oil for motor/tranny/cooling is all the same oil. There is a check level on the side of the motor and you will need bike upright (not on side stand) to check. The questions that you are asking lead me to believe that you will require some training on bikes and maintanence. You have found a good place with lots of info but PLEASE get the manual and it will teach you a lot.