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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, Just got a 750 for my son to start getting used to and so we don't have much information as we've never run that bike before.

Does anyone know what a good gearing is for the latest gen 750 at Barber? Headed there next month and I'm trying to buy parts. I also won't have other tracks to compare it to for a reference. I do think he'll run 33s based on his times on other bikes but that is just a guess. One other question as well. With the brakes we swapped out the pads with Vesrahs and put stainless steel lines on. Will there be any fade with that setup? How do the stock rotors hold up?
 

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for minimal fade be sure to use ceramic backed or backing plates along with a good sintered race for stock rotors, dunno what vesrahs you're using but anything close to stock pads expect fade and bricking in less than a lap at Q times, stock pads are not intended for tack or racing, of course more money buys more braking
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I was thinking we'd probably need to find a new pad anyway. Those ZZ's are done in 30 or 40 minutes on his 400 but he likes the intial grip they just fall off quickly. he's lost braking power. I guess we'll have to try out some more pads this winter.
 

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welp, figure out why they're fading, are the pads and rotors over heating and losing grip or is the fluid boiling.. when you get in after fade take a laser temp gauge to everything right away.. take a reading on the rotors, the pads, and lines..

might be a matter of upgrading fluid, or as I mentioned, using a ceramic backing plate or coated pads.. if the fluid is abnormal temps above the rated boiling point you have a heat issue in the fluid, upgrade fluid or take measure to prevent the heat from being transferred to the pistons..

if fluid temps are bad upgrade pads and or rotors... IMHO for club racing ductile iron rotors are best, with ceramic backed or ceramic shimmed sintered race pads... this set up is the most consistent and reliable for track days and club racing, braided lines and radial calipers and master helps with feedback and control, even a little sensitivity..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They aren't fading on his 400. After 2 or 3 sessions he's used a lot of the good material and there isn't much left so we change them. His equipment is good we change fluids after almost every session and use rbf 600 but maybe we can find a more durable pad. I don't have much issue with changing them that often as he's actually using them but I was thinking on the 750 those kinds of pads will see more abuse than his 400 so maybe something better for that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think only 1 other rider that my son raced with used the ceramic backed pads and maybe they handled the heat better but definitely not any better on braking. My son likes the feel of the ZZ's.. The feel is more important for us than how long they last.. I can deal with replacing them once or twice a weekend. I would try ceramic backed though and will probably check them out this winter but more for longevity without changing the feel.
 

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where is the heat coming from, are you running ductile iron rotors? good straight rotors? any warpage or pad drag will heat em up too hot, make sure pads are releasing proper, take your temps right away with laser gauge try to isolate the excessive heat issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
where is the heat coming from, are you running ductile iron rotors? good straight rotors? any warpage or pad drag will heat em up too hot, make sure pads are releasing proper, take your temps right away with laser gauge try to isolate the excessive heat issue
I think he's just braking hard. We have the Brembo Supersport rotor and stainlines lines and removed the abs. Pretty much the same setup as every other bike in the series, We have to use the stock caliper and master but he has plenty of braking power, not really any fade... The initial bite just goes away after 2 or 3 sessions and that's what he likes about the pads. Not sure how much the heat might have an impact on losing the bite so quickly but the pad backing turns from a light bronze to literally a bright red which I think is from heat.
 
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